Code 175 & rough idling - any ideas?

[spyderglick]

I’ve read every thread on this topic and can’t seem to find the answer to my particular situation.

I have a 2012 Rt and was running perfect prior to storing for 2-1/2 years. I did put stabil in the tank.
The battery is good and the connections tight.

Bringing it of storage, now it stumbles hestitates and quits. I’ve put sea foam in the tank and rode it 60 miles. Runs fine at highway speeds but tends to still idle rough and quit when coming to a stop. I had codes 174 and 172. I’ve added more gas and chevron Techron to the tank. It seems to get better but not when coming to a stop. I just did the canisterectomy. Code 174 and 172 are no longer displayed, I now have code 175. It seems to run much better but still not when coming to a stop. It stumbles on occasion and mayor may not quit. It has 8400 miles on it.

I was going to try non ethenal gas and go for a 150 mile to see if it will clear.

Any thoughts would greatly be appreciated.

 

[Revalden]

Check the vacuum lines for leaks, spray WD-40 around there while engine is idling, if rpm increase you got bad lines. Even if it has as few miles as yours rubber rots and it is rather old.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Check the vacuum lines for leaks, spray WD-40 around there while engine is idling, if rpm increase you got bad lines. Even if it has as few miles as yours rubber rots and it is rather old.

:agree: .... but don't recommend the WD-40 thing ...... and the Gas isn't a cause here , Unless it's also 2 1/2 years old ( if so start with draining the tank and using some fresh gas - 87 oct. will be fine ) ..... get some silicone re-placement hosing and cut to fit ..... they could last forever ..... If you don't have STAR washers on your battery connections I highly advise getting two and installing ..... has the battery been on a " Maintainer " ??? ... if not check the voltage output & amp draw ...... good luck Annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd :welcome:...... Mike :thumbup:

 

[spyderglick]

I did end up draining the tank. Prior to canisterectomy and about 80 miles ago.
How many vacuum lines are there? How many feet of it do I need to buy? Where are they located? I currently have the right side taken off.
The battery was on a maintainer. Good advise on the star washers.

Appreciate the help!
By the way I’m a blue knight also.

 

[merlot]

my manual says 172 is canister purge valve
i couldnt find the other codes(manual is for F3 2016)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-NsxYsZx2HmdDBtVzJ5YXRnY1k/view

buds will no doubt tell you the cause

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...uum-lines-on-2011-RT-SM5&highlight=map+sensor

russ

vac lines on the left side 2 off less than 3inches each do a search for pictures....very helpful

 

[spyderglick]

Thank you. I’ll check the vacuum lines tomorrow morning.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Picture

Yeah Russ. The codes are different between the F3 and RT. All of his codes are Rich / Lean Banks 1 and 2.

OP - Canisterectomy was definitely a good thing to do. Vacuum line spec length is 85mm for both. Either 2.8mm to 3mm ID will work depending on what you can find available. Unfortunately, you usually have to buy 3 feet off it. Plus, at some point down the road you'll want to consider replacing the OEM plug wires. They just degrade due to the heat. BajaRon can fix you up with that, although getting to the front plug will be a ....... But, what better time to do this. Good luck.

 

[spyderglick]

Ok. Replaced vacuum lines. One was cracked in several places. I was excited. Put the new lines on, started it now runs rougher than before!!? Pops and idle jumps around. Hmmmm.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

I hate it when that happens. So, they're the correct length and both the same length? Did you unplug or otherwise disconnect anything to get access - especially the front line - and it's still disconnected? Double check the lines at the sensor. There's no barb on the sensor connections and the line can easily be accidentally pulled off. 3mm ID is about as large as you can go. In addition, it will take a few minutes for the ECU to re-adjust once you correct the problem. How long did you leave it run?

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Ok. Replaced vacuum lines. One was cracked in several places. I was excited. Put the new lines on, started it now runs rougher than before!!? Pops and idle jumps around. Hmmmm.

As another has said here ..... the OEM plug wires also suffer for early failure, but I don't understand why it's now rougher than before .... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[spyderglick]

I just took it out for 150 miles. It runs great now, no codes but the check engine light is still on.

 

[merlot]

if check engine is on you shouldd be able to bring up a code.....otherwise,whats the point?

russ

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

So, problem solved, code screen is blank, yet the CEL is still on. Yep, I have a picture of that around here someplace. That has been mentioned on here a number of times.

Most of the time - all that is needed is to continue riding a few more times to put the engine through a couple of heat-up / cool down cycles. That’s not documented anywhere, but acts like it’s a carryover from the OBD-II type system. These are OBD-II codes.

Also not documented anywhere - only anecdotal evidence - is removing the key after the ride is finished and take it a distance from the bike. The Spyder lingo for that is the “Key Walk”. Shouldn’t matter but people report success with that.

Personally, I got some bad gas last year in Cooke City and started getting multiple light activations and clearing every couple of minutes due to a lean code. After a while the light stayed on constantly. After things got cleaned up and the codes cleared, the light stayed on for days. Once we got home, BUDS showed no Active codes, however there were 30 occurrences of the lean code stored in the Occurred history list. Ultimately, I had to clear the Occurred code list to get the light out. Also a function that is not documented anywhere.

So, keep riding it, give it some time and see what happens. Check that the codes are remaining clear. Worst case is that you’ll have to see a dealer or somebody with BUDS to clear the code list.

 

[spyder01]

If you disconnect the battery and touch the 2 leads together for 30 seconds you will erase any codes on any list,but if the problem is actually fixed completely then simply driving it thru a bunch of cold to hot cycles will cause any lite to go out.You can have what is called a pending code which is when the problem shows up once in a while but not enough to trip the CEL.These type problems are tricky and need a factory scan tool to see what is occurring in real time.Your codes indicate a rich condition.Fuel vapor cannister problems can introduce extra fuel,I would start looking there,fuel pressure regulators sometimes leak and even a leaky fuel injector could cause this.A fuel pressure test could verify internal leaks.

 

[spyderglick]

Update. After 150 miles check engine light went out. Yay! HOWEVER, my wife had been riding it to work without issue until yesterday when it wouldn’t start. I thought gas. The battery was run completely down and I had to jump it with the car. After it started all seemed normal until I went to take off. It ran very rough, lack of power and wouldn’t downshift on its own. I thought one of the vacuum lines I just replaced came off somehow. I just looked and the vacuum lines are still in place. What the heck?! Thoughts??

 

[spyderglick]

The engine starts knocking just off idle.

 

[Peter Aawen]

The engine starts knocking just off idle.

I wonder if that 'knocking' could be 'injector knock' & the rough running, difficult starts etc, are as a result of a dodgy or destroyed injector tips/fuel spray patterns?!? :dontknow:

Considering the longish storage period, there's the possibility of a touch of corrosion resulting on an injector nozzle or two; then when you eventually start it up again, the corroded bits'd flake off and you'd get pretty much everything you've described!! :gaah:

I think it might be time to get it to a dealer - preferably a reputable one with a good, well trained Can-Am Spyder savvy tech! ray:

Good Luck! :thumbup:

 

[davev1pa]

Please keep us informed. My 12 RTL with low miles at purchase 3400 in march 2020 gave me fits with code p1171after my first real ride with da boyz.The check engine light and rough 1200-1600 rpm idle and start up from idle was clanky and annoying.. I did the vac hoses, and ran about $35 of seafoam and techron thru the system to no avail. Took it dealer...plugs, vacuum hoses again, and general look over didn't change a thing. They were miffed. They called BRP. Reflashed the ECU with BUDS and Voila!! Puuurrrrfect. That'd be $506.00 .Ugh that hurt but it's running great 1500 miles later... BTW i took it to a dealer with a mechanic that had done Can am's since 09...45 miles away...I have another 10 miles away but just didn't get a good feel from the service manager in our discussion..and had previously been there with my Victory Vision and always felt like I had to really stay on top of them. So it's worth interviewing the service dept.

 

[spyderglick]

It is now fixed. It was one of the plug wires or spark plug. Replaced both plugs and wires from BajaRon and installed a new fuel filter.
What’s been done:
Removed catalytic converter
Canisterectomy
Replaced vacuum lines
Replaced plugs
Replaced wires
Replaced fuel filter.

Thank you to all who provided input and ideas.

I hope this helps others. Feel free to contact me if you need help.