Clutch starting to fail on SE5

[Cavman]

When I was up in Maggie Valley for the owner's event, I noticed that the Spyder's engine would rev up but the Spyder wasn't accelerating as it should. So, I have been babying it since I was to attend the Wing Ding in Greenville, SC last week.

Is this normal for a SE5 transmission with only 17K miles on it for the clutch to start slipping? I wouldn't think so? I've been using Amsoil since I got the Spyder and it has 500 miles on it since the last oil/filters change.

I'm supposed to lead a ride August 10th for a tour of Sequoyah Caverns in NE Alabama and lunch in LaFayette, GA. I hope I won't doing the ride in my truck?

Thanks for any suggestions or coments.

 

[Bob Denman]

:shocked:
Not to be pointing fingers...
But what sort of rpm range have you been using?
If you've kept the clutches fully locked-up; then it seems as if it's premature...
If not... :dontknow:

 

[NancysToy]

Afraid it sounds like time to replace the clutch with the new clutch pack (different oil jet and an extra plate/disc). Unless you have a real friendly dealer, this will likely be on your dime. Clutch disc wear is excluded in the warranty.

 

[ThreeFeet]

Seems I might be in the same boat.:dontknow: My 2010 RT-S SE5 has started to (more often lately) increase rpms significantly going from 1st to 2nd. then it sorta slams into 2nd and I'm off and away. BUT every once in awhile it does the racing bit going from 2nd to 3rd. She's only got 33+++ miles on her and I guess I am a little hard on the tranny?:hun: Maybe??:dontknow: Will find out if there is a tranny fixen on the 18th July. Hope it doesn't require removal of the whole thing!!!ray: BUT Cowtown hasn't let me down yet.:clap: Besides I tell the guys if they don't do their job right I'll tear up the adoption papers!!!:roflblack::roflblack: I have consistantly kept the rpms at 4500 to 5000 and up. Going from 1st to 2nd I get it to just about 5000 and shift. Only put her in 5th if I am going over 70 mph. Which means that most of the time I am in 4th with speeds up to 65mph and over 5000 rpm. That might be a tad much for the tranny but she's held in there now for over 33000 mile. Kinda too late for me to change possible bad habbits.pps: Besides they said it was a high rpm engine and to keep them UP. So I did!!!nojoke

 

[ThreeFeet]

:shocked:
Not to be pointing fingers...
But what sort of rpm range have you been using?
If you've kept the clutches fully locked-up; then it seems as if it's premature...
If not... :dontknow:

What do you mean locked up??

 

[ARCTIC]

What do you mean locked up??

The clutch fully engages at 3,200rpm and so if you're constantly lugging the motor at or below that rpm range you're slipping the clutch

 

[Jeriatric]

3200 plus or minus 200 RPM.

Was/is yours a plus or minus 200 RPM clutch? :dontknow:

Use a minimum of 3500 RPM just to play it safe. jm2c...again.

 

[Bob Denman]

The clutch fully engages at 3,200rpm and so if you're constantly lugging the motor at or below that rpm range you're slipping the clutch

Good catch! :thumbup:

The term, "locked-up" may be painting an inaccurate picture of the process... pps:

 

[jerpinoy]

Proper oil service should be check also. Well good luck and it will be simple as luck of oil.

 

[Cavman]

I try to normally up shift between 6000-7000 RPMs. I try to run it between 5000-6000 RPMs. The whole time I attended the Wing Ding last week, I never got it into 5th gear. The oil was changed less that 500 miles ago.
For the Owner's event I was towing a trailer and had the Spyder in trailer mode when pulling it.

 

[BajaRon]

Most likely your 'Baby-ing' your Spyder has done in the clutch. The Spyder likes to run hard. As stated, the clutch pack will slip when power is applied below about 3,200 RPM. A little slippage goes a long way to shorten the life of your clutch.

It isn't the Amsoil. Amsoil has the highest MA2 wet clutch rating and it is at the upper end of the MA2 scale.

Bite the bullet and get a new clutch pack with the new, improved shifting components and then keep your RPM's above 3,200 AFTER the shift and you should have many care free miles ahead.

 

[Bob Ledford]

Clutch Is Made to Fail

It appears that with the exception of Scotty everyone seems to have forgotten that clutches are designed to fail after a period of time. Some manufacturers faster then others. There is only so much slippage built in to a clutch plate and then it loses its ability to grip the driven disk plate.

 

[Bob Denman]

That fact wasn't lost on me; but he mentioned only having 17,000 miles on the bike.... THAT seems like an unusually short life for the clutch.

 

[Cavman]

I did purchase the Spyder pre-owned so I don't know how the previous owner ran the machine? It had 1776 miles on it when I got it.

Any idea what it will cost to replace the clutch pack as Ron mentioned?

 

[Bob Denman]

I think that's got to be a "Call your dealer" type of conversation... :shocked:

 

[NancysToy]

The clutch kit itself is about $500, plus labor.

 

[ARCTIC]

The clutch kit itself is about $500, plus labor.

how tough are they to change? How much dis-assembly is required? Do they make high performance ones?

 

[retired1]

how tough are they to change? How much dis-assembly is required? Do they make high performance ones?

I know that DocDoru runs, or did run a Barnett clutch on his Turboed Spyder.

 

[BajaRon]

I know that DocDoru runs, or did run a Barnett clutch on his Turboed Spyder.

Not a bad idea. You may be able to do the work yourself if you don't need anything but new clutch plates.

 

[WARWAGON]

Most likely your 'Baby-ing' your Spyder has done in the clutch. The Spyder likes to run hard. As stated, the clutch pack will slip when power is applied below about 3,200 RPM. A little slippage goes a long way to shorten the life of your clutch.

It isn't the Amsoil. Amsoil has the highest MA2 wet clutch rating and it is at the upper end of the MA2 scale.

Bit the bullet and get a new clutch pack with the new, improved shifting components and then keep your RPM's above 3,200 AFTER the shift and you should have many care free miles ahead.

Holy cow I must really be babying the Spyder. So what are the general ranges for shift with SE5? Just a general rule, don't want to wear out things prematurely.