Clutch feels like it's not engaging - any suggestions?

[mhowell72]

I have 2020 F3 limited with 7600 miles. It was all good, then one day it acted like it didn't go all the way into gear, but eventually it would grab and shift fine. So I changed the oil using the 1330 XPS kit with oil filter and O-rings, & also changed HMC filter. It has gotten better, but still wants to do it every now and then. It just acts like it's not engaging all the way. I also put new battery in it. Any suggestions of what to do next?

 

[BajaRon]

Are you saying the gears aren't engaging completely? Or the clutch is slipping? I'm not clear on that.

What oil did you use before the last change?

Are you running below 3,500 RPM on a regular basis, or for extended periods of time?

 

[Mikey]

opcorn:

 

[BertRemington]

I have 2020 F3 limited with 7600 miles. It was all good, then one day it acted like it didn't go all the way into gear, but eventually it would grab and shift fine. So I changed the oil using the 1330 XPS kit with oil filter and O-rings, & also changed HMC filter. It has gotten better, but still wants to do it every now and then. It just acts like it's not engaging all the way

He's actually talking about clutch engagement, not transmission gear shift cogs.

Is this another instance of the clutch basket center nut backing out?

 

[BajaRon]

He's actually talking about clutch engagement, not transmission gear shift cogs.

Is this another instance of the clutch basket center nut backing out?

Could be. In any case, it should be looked at ASAP before it turns into a very expensive repair. If it turns out to be a minor issue, so much the better.

 

[mhowell72]

It does not do it all the time, but when it does, it seems to be not engaging fully, then all of a sudden it grabs, then it will shift and run fine. I bought it back in August last year. I don't know what oil they used before me; it has only got 7500 miles on it; and yes, I've been running lower rpms due to lack of knowledge and research. I'm used to 2-wheel bikes. I feel I'm very mechanically inclined, so trying to keep out of paying high labor rates, but if I have to take it in, I will.

 

[Mikey]

If it's something that you can take it in and show them what it's doing, I would do it now, like said above, it could change into something really bad quickly.

 

[DaddyRhino130]

Does this happen just when you start at the beginning of the day or ride, or does it happen throughout the day and ride whenever you take off from a stop?

If I try to take off right away first thing in the morning without letting the bike idle for like 30 seconds, it seems to take some slightly higher RPMs to get it going. After that, the clutch engages fine at the proper engine speed.

Sounds interesting...

 

[BajaRon]

It does not do it all the time, but when it does, it seems to be not engaging fully, then all of a sudden it grabs, then it will shift and run fine. I bought it back in August last year. I don't know what oil they used before me; it has only got 7500 miles on it; and yes, I've been running lower rpms due to lack of knowledge and research. I'm used to 2-wheel bikes. I feel I'm very mechanically inclined, so trying to keep out of paying high labor rates, but if I have to take it in, I will.

RPM much below 3,500 RPM will slip the clutch. It doesn't take much of this to fry the friction plates and scorch the steel plates. Be sure when you upshift that you are at or above 3,500 RPM in the new, higher gear. Hopefully, since the problem is intermittent, you've not done permanent damage. That is, if my prognoses (guess) is accurate.

 

[BertRemington]

mhowell72 -- the Spyder transmission is a standard motorcycle transmission with straight-cut gears and shifting accomplished by engaging the appropriate cogs. The clutch is a standard motorcycle clutch with multiple friction and steel plates with two exceptions, one being the oil cooling circuit and the other being engagement (vice release) via variable HCM-controlled hydraulic pressure. The HCM has its own separate oil suction and pressure circuits with line pressure about twice engine oil pressure.

Again, the clutch is engaged with HCM-controlled pressure and released with no pressure. This is why your Spyder will roll if you turn off the engine while the transmission is in gear.

The HCM functions under the control of the Bosch TCM (Bosch also provides the ECM) whose sophistication is about the same as a late-1990s/early-2000s automobile TCM. It has both pressure and temperature sensors for control feedback.

There have been rare instances where the central nut for the clutch basket has backed out whereupon the clutch loses the ability to fully engage. Apparently there have been instances when some sort of debris entered the HCM oil circuit and interfered with solenoid operation. In the former instance, disassembly of the right-hand side of the transmission is needed to re-tighten the nut and in the latter, apparently there is a BUDS function that forces open all solenoid valves concurrently in an attempt to flush the debris.

You've made an excellent first step with oil and filters change -- especially the HCM filter.

For a second step I suggest two things. First arrange for the possibility your Spyder will need a tow. A tilting flatbed works fine for Spyders. Then spend some time driving shifting at 4,000 rpm and above (hey, its fun the 1330cc engine is a sweetie). Even at a steady 55 mph still shift up and down. You want to circulate the oil through all the solenoid valves many times.

If the clutch engagement problem worsens or you hear noises from the right-hand transmission case, it's time for a tow to a Spyder mechanic.

Best wishes.

 

[mhowell72]

Finally got it to shop. They are going to look into it and let know. I will post again when I have an answer just for people's FYI. Thank you for everyone's feedback.

 

[juscuz]

Any update on your gear changing issue???