Clock on dash still not working....

[FINFAN3DP]

Nope, right back to all zeros.... Very frustrating.

 

[Easy Rider]

Nope, right back to all zeros.... Very frustrating.

It should now be obvious by now that nobody in this forum can help you with this, possibly because of insufficient facts.

You NEED to either take it to a dealer OR stop worrying about it.
A small piece of masking or black electrical tape can help with the ignoring part.

 

[Lew L]

Did you happen to check for good tight battery connections???

PS: Isn't the " ignore" list GREAT.

Lew L

 

[Joel The Biker]

Please check the fuse F1 in the right fuse box. It is the power for the clock. The right fuse box is actually on the left when you are standing in front of the bike looking in the frunk. Fuse F1 is the first small fuse. 15A. This fuse also goes to the hazard lights. If your hazards dont work, then the fuse is blown. Hope its that simple.

 

[FINFAN3DP]

Please check the fuse F1 in the right fuse box. It is the power for the clock. The right fuse box is actually on the left when you are standing in front of the bike looking in the frunk. Fuse F1 is the first small fuse. 15A. This fuse also goes to the hazard lights. If your hazards dont work, then the fuse is blown. Hope its that simple.

Hi Joel,

Thanks for that, but unfortunately that fuse is ok, even tried another one, still didn't work. HOWEVER, i never set the date before, so I did that this time. I will check the byke again tomorrow to see if it saved the time. FINALLY, maybe I have the fix.

PS, i checked the manual and called the dealer, no one knows why it is doing this, so I'm hopeful the date issue fixes it.

 

[UtahPete]

HOWEVER, i never set the date before, so I did that this time.

:shocked:

 

[FINFAN3DP]

NO SUCH LUCK. Still went back to zeros. UGH!!! :cus:

 

[FINFAN3DP]

Did you happen to check for good tight battery connections???

PS: Isn't the " ignore" list GREAT.

Lew L

Yeah, checked them while I was in checking the fuse. Tight, no corrosion. AND YES, thanks!! The ignore feature is AWESOME!!!

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Deleted text. Accidental double post.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Yeah, checked them while I was in checking the fuse. Tight, no corrosion. AND YES, thanks!! The ignore feature is AWESOME!!!

There are two fuses feeding power to the cluster, F1 and F7 in the left box. Have you checked both? F1 provides power full time. F7 when the ignition is on. Check all your preference settings. Are any of them not sticking when you turn the ignition off? IIRC there is at least one, maybe audio related, that reverts to default when the power to the cluster is cut off. Do the hazard flashers work when the key is off? F1 is listed as both cluster and hazard but F2 in the RFB is the main hazard power. I don't know but the flashers may not work if F1, LFB is blown.

If you have established that the cluster is getting power all the time through F1 then the only thing I can see is there is a short or break in the circuitry inside the cluster.

 

[larryd]

How old is the battery??? Have you hooked a volt meter to the battery and watched how low the voltage drops when the motor is cranking?? Just another suggestion to try...larryd

 

[FINFAN3DP]

How old is the battery??? Have you hooked a volt meter to the battery and watched how low the voltage drops when the motor is cranking?? Just another suggestion to try...larryd

Thanks for the suggestion, I'm guessing it's the one that came from the factory. I have had zero issues starting it, even without having the tender hooked up all winter. (have the tender, just haven't hooked it up yet).

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Fin, I was just going back over this thread and see you said you did check F1 and find it's good. Did you check it with an ohmmeter to make sure it doesn't have a break that you can't see? If F1 is good then the only conclusion I can come to is you have a defective cluster.

As has been mentioned before, this is the first time your problem has been reported on this forum. That's why you're getting scatter gun responses.

 

[larryd]

I've seen vehicles start but when voltage drops very low when starting sometimes the radio & clocks loose their memory...A simple test would be to hook up a 12 volt jumper battery to your Spyder battery and then start the bike to see if the problem is still there or its not...

You could use a 12 V. lawn & garden tractor or another vehicle...You may need motorcycle jumper cables to hook on the bike battery...

This is a very simple test...

Give it a try and report back...

larryd

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I've seen vehicles start but when voltage drops very low when starting sometimes the radio & clocks loose their memory...A simple test would be to hook up a 12 volt jumper battery to your Spyder battery and then start the bike to see if the problem is still there or its not...

You could use a 12 V. lawn & garden tractor or another vehicle...You may need motorcycle jumper cables to hook on the bike battery...

This is a very simple test...

Give it a try and report back...

larryd

That's a possibility I suggested earlier, but not likely. The reason being if the battery voltage drops below 10.5 the cluster blanks out and the starter won't kick in. I think the clock would stay powered down to the 10.5 level and then reset, but at that point the starter won't work either. I think he's got a bad cluster.

 

[FINFAN3DP]

UPDATE: I installed the battery tender through my Spydercuff Powerplate yesterday, and it was red for about 45mins, then turned green. Clock still doesn't work. When I get it inspected in July, I'm going to have them try to fix it.