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click from the drive belt
- Thread starter Marek
- Start date
BajaRon
Well-known member
I don't think it possible for a too tight belt to jump teeth. If it did, it would certainly do damage. But I just don't think it possible. It might be possible on a belt too lose. Whether belt tension is part of your issue or not, I would recommend knowing what your belt tension is. It can certainly cause issues.
Just another thoughty here.... maybe you should chock the front wheels, stick the trans in neutral, shut down the engine, turn the park brake off (& ignore the warning beep for 20 seconds or so), then raise the rear wheel juuust off the ground, and gently spin it by hand. :dontknow: While you're doing that, get down close to each of the pulleys in turn, & watch/listen for the noise you're chasing. Doing this might help locate exactly where the noise is coming from, and it could also highlight where it's NOT coming from too!! :lecturef_smilie:
And while you're at it, you might also want to check the rear drive cog for looseness & the rear wheel bearings for stiffness &/or noises - they've been known to wear out & the wheel bearings will eventually seize.... And while you're down there, very carefully inspect the tread of the rear tire for any 'embedded objects' too - maybe just a small rock stuck in the tread, but I've had a customer who was adamant that one of his 4WD rear wheel bearings was gone 'cos it's clicking whenever the truck moves' only I discovered a BIG roofing type Tek screw embedded in that particular tire tread - took that out, patched the hole, voila, the noise was gone!! Bloke still insisted that I had to've done the wheel bearing, cos 'he'd definitely recognise the difference in the noise & it just hadta be the bearing - it COULDN'T POSSIBLY have just been a Tek screw in the tire!!' :shocked:
Noises on vehicles can be very deceiving, not only in what they sound like they might be, but also in where they sound like they're coming from!! Good Luck! :thumbup:
And while you're at it, you might also want to check the rear drive cog for looseness & the rear wheel bearings for stiffness &/or noises - they've been known to wear out & the wheel bearings will eventually seize.... And while you're down there, very carefully inspect the tread of the rear tire for any 'embedded objects' too - maybe just a small rock stuck in the tread, but I've had a customer who was adamant that one of his 4WD rear wheel bearings was gone 'cos it's clicking whenever the truck moves' only I discovered a BIG roofing type Tek screw embedded in that particular tire tread - took that out, patched the hole, voila, the noise was gone!! Bloke still insisted that I had to've done the wheel bearing, cos 'he'd definitely recognise the difference in the noise & it just hadta be the bearing - it COULDN'T POSSIBLY have just been a Tek screw in the tire!!' :shocked:
Noises on vehicles can be very deceiving, not only in what they sound like they might be, but also in where they sound like they're coming from!! Good Luck! :thumbup:
Maybe I wrote it wrong ... I meant that it seems to me that the belt is very tight but maybe it is the other way round and it is not very tight. Then he could jump on the teeth of the drive wheel (front pulley) as I think. But why only at the first, second move?
Do any of you know what the belt tension should be?
Does mechanical measurement make sense or is it better to measure belt vibration?
Do any of you know what the belt tension should be?
Does mechanical measurement make sense or is it better to measure belt vibration?
BajaRon
Well-known member
Belt tension is easily determined. There are a number of ways to do this. Some are a waste of time, in my opinion. Like the belt twist method. I recommend the Krikit II. I sell them for $18.95. But they are readily available elsewhere as well. Small, easy, quick and very accurate when done correctly (which isn't hard at all). The gauge is small enough to store in your Spyder.
I have a belt tension chart that I send out with every Krikit II gauge. If you'd like a copy, just email me at [email protected] and I will send you a PDF file.
There is a Krikit and a Krikit II gauge. They look nearly identical, so be sure to get the right one. The Krikit will not work on the Spyder drive belt.
Here is a short video on how this gauge works and how accurate it is. We don't need nearly this much accuracy on our drive belt.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z11wfc-0-hY
This is a neat tool that I have not seen before. Interesting...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOBSKjKdwek
Last edited:
Fault found thanks to your support.:yes: The cause, as usual, proved to be prosaic. I have a non-original belt tensioner in Spyder. This tensioner came loose and his arm hit the lower belt cover. It seems that when the engine was not warmed up, it caused more vibration and when starting, tapping the tensioner on the belt cover, during further driving this knocking did not appear anymore.
Thanks to everyone who tried to help me by giving advice and sharing experiences from which I could learn a lot. :bowdown:
Greetings from Lower Silesia - Marek
Thanks to everyone who tried to help me by giving advice and sharing experiences from which I could learn a lot. :bowdown:
Greetings from Lower Silesia - Marek
pegasus1300
Well-known member
Thank you for letting us know. I am glad to hear you found the problem before it tore up your belt.
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