Checking ride height for all riders on new or new to them Spyders

[AndysF3S]

My Spyder is a 22 F3S that I purchased new from the dealer in June 2023. From the time I first rode it on the highway I was uncomfortable with the wandering in the lane and what I felt was skittish steering behavior. I checked the tire pressure and it was high 23.5 psi vs 15 psi on the sticker in the frunk. Reducing the tire pressure heped some but not where I would like it.

In Alberta our riding season usually ends in October and doesn't begin again until late April or early May so there was plenty of time to reread the owners manual and my new shop manual. After 2300 miles on the Spyder last year I was more comfortable riding it on the highway but felt that there must be something more that could be done to make the machine more stable. Yes it is different to drive than a car but not as much as some on this site advise.

The owners manual states that the ride height should be done at the dealer?? The sales guy although very thorough on his delivery of the Spyder did not mention that I/we should check the ride height? I have bought many toys from the dealer who sells BRP only and have great service.

I bought a digital shop manual and on page 292 it has a short description for adjusting spring preload. Make sure the vehicle is on a level surface, normal cargo load (rider, passenger and bags). Measure the distance between the upper and lower shock absorber mounting bolts. This distance should be 420mm (16 and 17/32"). Make sure you roll the Spyder forward or backwards after mounting it to allow the suspension to settle for a good measurement.

Obviously the adjusting the spring preload only applies to front shocks that have the threaded adjusters on them. The shocks that don't have threads will require spacers etc or a different thread and topic.

To adjust: loosen the lock ring and turn the preload ring up or down as required (the same number of turns on each side) and tighten the lock ring.

Unfortunately, I ordered my Elka Stage 2 shocks and didn't realize what a difference in steering this adjustment could make until we installed them. When we installed the Elkas, we raised the front ride height from 16 1/4" (9/23" lower than spec) to 16 3/4" (7/32" higher than spec). The change in ride height, about 1/2", changed the steering on the spyder from "skittish" to almost "planted". I will probably drop the ride height a bit once the new springs have settled but do not feel any adverse effects from being a bit high as compared to being a bit low.

Raising the ride height has changed the wheel camber to a bit more positive (no adjustments for camber) and the toe in has increased closer to what the factory wheel alignment was set at. My SWAG is the factory wheel alignment is set with a ride height of 16 17/32" +/- and as you go below that distance because of rider(s) weight the toe-in decreases because of the design of the front end and this results in 0 toe-in or perhaps toe-out, a very poor steering Spyder and an increase in tire wear.

If you decide to adjust the ride height yourself you will need a wrench that fits the lock ring and the adjuster, this wrench was supplied with many models of Skidoo, and some Can Am quads but not with the Spyder. Make sure the measurements are taken with the driver, passenger and cargo on board. Dismount and raise the front end with a jack to reduce the preload on the spring adjusters, mark the adjuster collar, and adjust both sides the same number of turns before tightening the lock nut. This will be trial and error, so it may require several adjustments.

This adjustment capability was included on several models of Spyder but is not explained as well as it should be so that the new owner can enjoy the best ride the Spyder can provide. Hopefully, it makes a positive difference for you.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

AndysF3S,

IMHO you are way over-thinking this ..... you are better off checking the ground clearance (this is also the ride height) .... I think the wandering issue is because the ALIGNMENT is OFF .... not un-common..... good luck ...Mike

 

[Mikey]

:agree: If you're looking for more planted your starting in the right direction! You have not told us the whole story of what you have done other than getting new shocks. Have you done a sway bar, car tires, alignment? All of these will just about make that thing run like on rails, it's a proven fact, do the search on the top of the home page. Your eye's will bleed!!! Good luck!!!

 

[PMK]

Measuring ride height based off shock length as you discovered can be challenging to measure.

The benefit of using that method is in understanding the suspension points are symmetric and does a primitive but acceptable method to set the camber and castor angles the engineers designed into the front suspension geometry.
A second benefit is a more balanced spring force per front wheel.

As you are likely aware, Spyders have a very basic, simple steering geometry. Unfortunately, the simple design does poorly in regards to suspension movement bump steer.

As good as it feels now when riding, it would be best to actually verify the amount of toe. Two tape measures and a pair of straight edges can give you a good idea of where your wheels are pointed.

 

[AndysF3S]

Thanks for the replies, I just wanted to post what a difference the adjustment to ride height did for other folks that may be experiencing a wandering Spyder like I did. I have a Baja Ron sway bar, better in the corners but not in a straight line. I will check the alignment PMK but right now it steers great and I will use something similar to the tools you suggested. Tires are like new at 2300 miles so none required at this time.

The ride height adjustment is from the shop manual under "adjusting spring preload" so that others are getting the shop manual quote not something I made up. Looking forward to posting about my just completed project soon and another trip or two with the early spring weather.