OK, BRP says to get it to operating and idle for 30 seconds. This is what I do. After a run and my engine is hot I pull into my garage and let it idle for more then 30 seconds as I take off the side panel. Once off I then shut it down and take out the dipstick right away. That takes less then 10 seconds. The level today was just under full by 1/4 inch but it needs a change so no big deal. Anyway, what I am getting at is after 30 seconds the level was half way down and after a minute it was at the add mark. The level was better right after shut down but if you take longer to check it, let's say a minute then you would add oil that is not needed I would say. I think oil bleeds into the engine when shut down. I wish there was an oil window to view it while running to get an accurate measurement. Anyone else tried this way and di your Spyder bleed down? :dontknow:
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Checking Oil Level
- Thread starter Tonga
- Start date
MouthPiece
Banged Up Member
Might take a look at this. (Especially Lamont's response)
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29998&highlight=check+level
Chris PE # 0004
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29998&highlight=check+level
Chris PE # 0004
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
There are usually some bubbles in the tank that take a few seconds to dissipate. As a result, the apparent oil level will drop for the first 30-60 seconds, or more. The best advice I can offer is to try to be consistent about it, and check at about the same delay each time. In addition to the bubbles, the oil can seep back into the return line. That usually doesn't happen fast, though. This seepage is the reason for running the engine just before you check the oil. We all need to keep in mind that this is a dry sump engine, so there is a fair amount of leeway allowable in the oil level. I wouldn't sweat the small stuff. If the oil is between the lines, I am happy.
All that being said, I would dearly like to have a sight-glass in the tank, and a "porthole in the bodywork to view through. It sure would make life easier.
All that being said, I would dearly like to have a sight-glass in the tank, and a "porthole in the bodywork to view through. It sure would make life easier.
Last edited:
GeoffCee
New member
You've just described my dearly departed R1150RT BeeEmm. (Sigh
)The reading method could be improved and I intend to mark up a separate probe to measure the oil depth in the tank instead of using the screw-in dipstick. At the moment it's a fiddly business.
The sealing ring around the neck of the dipstick has a mind of its own, sometimes staying put and sometimes winding its way down the threads of the cap. Plus the oil reading is often affected by a loose quantity of oil which hangs around the neck of the tank as the dipstick is unscrewed and withdrawn. A straight in and out reading of the oil level would be a better proposition, IMO. :yes:
Bubbles
Thanks Scotty. Yes bubbles, I remember that in my GS, that is why I stopped using BRP oil but this time I decided to keep using it. I will try Amsoil and see how it works out. The bubbles took about 45 seconds to subside in my GS but the level only went down a bit. My RT goes from almost full to just above add. This RT with a higher compression engine and pushing over 200 lbs more weight is working harder and oil is being used, not much I know but some unless I also have bleed down into the crankcase. Think about all the oil inside the engine while running and then shut it down, it goes somewhere as well. I will look for bubbles next time I go for a ride. Today I do an oil change so I will switch brands and see.
Thanks Scotty. Yes bubbles, I remember that in my GS, that is why I stopped using BRP oil but this time I decided to keep using it. I will try Amsoil and see how it works out. The bubbles took about 45 seconds to subside in my GS but the level only went down a bit. My RT goes from almost full to just above add. This RT with a higher compression engine and pushing over 200 lbs more weight is working harder and oil is being used, not much I know but some unless I also have bleed down into the crankcase. Think about all the oil inside the engine while running and then shut it down, it goes somewhere as well. I will look for bubbles next time I go for a ride. Today I do an oil change so I will switch brands and see.
SpyderAnn01
Active member
And while we are adding windows I'd like to see one on the RT master cylinder.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
I'll second that motion, too!
Oil Change Remarks
I just finished my oil change and I measured what I took out. Now I did say that it was about a 1/4 inch below the full mark when hot yesterday so today I removed 3 quarts 20 oz of oil. Full is 4.1 quarts according to my manual. I did put 4.5 quarts in the last time and I have added 14 oz in 3000 miles, so do the math. this is my third oil change since the 600 mile inspection. I did put Amsoil (10w40) in and will see what happens. I also drove my RT for 50 minutes ( in 78 degree weathere )to get it hot and no bubbles and the oil level stayed the same for about 2 minutes so it did not bleed down. Can the OEM oil bubble that much to go from a 1/4 inch below full to amost the add mark? :sour:
I just finished my oil change and I measured what I took out. Now I did say that it was about a 1/4 inch below the full mark when hot yesterday so today I removed 3 quarts 20 oz of oil. Full is 4.1 quarts according to my manual. I did put 4.5 quarts in the last time and I have added 14 oz in 3000 miles, so do the math. this is my third oil change since the 600 mile inspection. I did put Amsoil (10w40) in and will see what happens. I also drove my RT for 50 minutes ( in 78 degree weathere )to get it hot and no bubbles and the oil level stayed the same for about 2 minutes so it did not bleed down. Can the OEM oil bubble that much to go from a 1/4 inch below full to amost the add mark? :sour:
Dudley
New member
I saw a post some time back that stated if the oil is measured cold, oil at the tip of the dip stick will equal full when running in operational hot. I have meant to check that but keep forgetting to do it. I have given the thought of using some measurement stick to measure from the bottom of the reservoir to determine full cold instead of from the top. Gotta put that at the top of my crazy ideas list!
Cold Measure
I did check it cold after the 2 minute run with 3 quarts of oil then shut down to add 1 more quart. I found it below the dipstick with 4 quarts cold. Not sure how much but I did add more oil. The manual says the midway between add to full cold will bring it to full when hot. Mine is over some but my dealer filled that much first time so I do it as well. Thats 3 changes this way.
I did check it cold after the 2 minute run with 3 quarts of oil then shut down to add 1 more quart. I found it below the dipstick with 4 quarts cold. Not sure how much but I did add more oil. The manual says the midway between add to full cold will bring it to full when hot. Mine is over some but my dealer filled that much first time so I do it as well. Thats 3 changes this way.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Yes, and it seems to be quite variable, depending on the batch and brand of oil, the machine, the weather, etc.
Exactly! I got frustrated trying to do the hot measure method and took a 12" plastic rod and push it to the bottom of the tank. I made a notch on it where the full and add marks are (about 8" from the bottom for full and about 7" from the bottom for add). Regardless of whether I measure hot or cold, I can see where the oil level in the tank is without a sight glass. Even if the oil is not touching the factory dipstick, I know that I have lots of oil in the tank. This does not take the place of the proper oil check method, but it confirms that there is adequate oil in the tank if you did not do a hot engine check.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
I hope not. The capacity of the SM is 4.1 US quarts, and the capacity of the SE is 4.3 US quarts. Anything more is overfilled.
And right into the air box.:shocked:
:hun: I think you'll find it's a Wet Clutch!!:shocked:
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Both models are wet clutch. The SE just adds a centrifugal clutch to disengage when idling.
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