check Transmission

[Topshotta]

This morning riding to work the transmission light and check transmission message flashed on the screen. I pulled over shut it down and restarted it and the message went away. I went back home check the oil, it was at the add line. I added oil and rechecked. I rode to work about 15 miles and all seems well.
Do you think I need to get it checked out? I have 2000miles.

 

[CyncySpyder]

A little more info please to better help us to help you

Sorry, I'm not really all that familiar with the RS line, and I see that you have the RS-S, does that come with the SE5 or manual? If its the SE5, how much oil did you have to add? If more than a 1/4 of a quart, and its an SE5, then that was most probably your issue, since the SE5 uses the same oil for the Engine AND the Transmission. If you have a manual tho, then that shouldn't matter.

Also, did you by chance check to see if there were any Active/Stored Fault Codes? I know the procedure for the RT but its totally different for the RS, something like push the front Mode Button & Flash your High Beams like 5 times or something like that. But knowing if you have a fault code could also help with troubleshooting.

Just trying to help, let us know & good luck.

 

[Topshotta]

Sorry, I'm not really all that familiar with the RS line, and I see that you have the RS-S, does that come with the SE5 or manual? If its the SE5, how much oil did you have to add? If more than a 1/4 of a quart, and its an SE5, then that was most probably your issue, since the SE5 uses the same oil for the Engine AND the Transmission. If you have a manual tho, then that shouldn't matter.

Also, did you by chance check to see if there were any Active/Stored Fault Codes? I know the procedure for the RT but its totally different for the RS, something like push the front Mode Button & Flash your High Beams like 5 times or something like that. But knowing if you have a fault code could also help with troubleshooting.

Just trying to help, let us know & good luck.

I have the SE5, I did not check for codes, will try later. No code was on the display, just check transmission.
I add less that a 1/4 quart, don't want to add too much, will re-evaluate later.

 

[MikeinGA]

On your 2012 RS-S you should check your oil every 500 miles. Check for oil in the air box. If you have oil in the air box and stock air filter, get a K&N air filter. If you have oil in your after you replace the air filter PM me, I have other ways to get rid of the oil. That's IMHO.

Mike

 

[Chupaca]

Don't know..!!

but seems that that was the problem. Low oil causes a series of codes and warnings. It's like which will kick in first. Sometimes they will appear when the roadster is at an angle where oil settles to one side and you are a bit low. Gas gauge does that on down/up hills. You drop to two bars then level out and go back to three bars...then there are the glitches. Warning light pops on, you restart and never see it again.. Just keep an eye on for a while...jmo :thumbup:

 

[TexAmRider]

Filter make that much difference

On your 2012 RS-S you should check your oil every 500 miles. Check for oil in the air box. If you have oil in the air box and stock air filter, get a K&N air filter. If you have oil in your after you replace the air filter PM me, I have other ways to get rid of the oil. That's IMHO.

Mike

I recently purchased a K&N filter for my RT. Haven't even looked at the original filter to replace yet, but there is a chance I may be getting some oil in the filter. Does the K&N prevent this from happening?

 

[Flanker]

I ignore all that alarmist :cus:! If it explodes and burns........................I'll know I was wrong. DDOOHH!!

 

[MikeinGA]

I recently purchased a K&N filter for my RT. Haven't even looked at the original filter to replace yet, but there is a chance I may be getting some oil in the filter. Does the K&N prevent this from happening?

Yes it may get oil in the filter. The K&N filter is a oiled filter and the oil in the air box won't hurt it, but if the paper filter gets oil on it will slow the air flow and cause a lower pressure in the air box and pull more oil into the air box. The K&N filter is a lifelong filter and should be cleaned and re-oiled about every 30,000 miles. I use them in all my vehicles and the my race cars and race motorcycle with no problems.

Mike

 

[Michael211_2000]

The K&N filter is a lifelong filter and should be cleaned and re-oiled about every 30,000 miles. I use them in all my vehicles and the my race cars and race motorcycle with no problems.

Hey Mike, the K&N filter's don't last forever they do eventually start to fall apart... I had to replace the K&N filter in my truck the day before I drove it to Baton Rouge LA this past summer to buy my 2012 Spyder RS.

I'd changed the truck's engine oil and oil filter and went to clean and re-oil the air filter when I noticed (after cleaning and drying it) that there were black spots the size of finger nail clippings on the cleaned white filter element... a closer examination in better light revealed that the black spots were actually holes where chunks of the filter element had disintigrated and gone! This filter was some 12 years old and had some 200,000 miles on it, but not at the end of the truck's lifetime by far so I was pretty suprised by this!

I cleaned and re-oiled the filter usually 1 time each year, so 12 "recharges" and it was no good any longer.

So anyhows, inspect carefully all the way around in good light before re-oiling the K&N air filters... because they do go bad eventually, they don't last the lifetime of my vehicles at any rate.

Regards!

- Michael

 

[jcthorne]

I will not run K&N or any other brand of oiled gauze filter element on an engine I care about. They DO NOT filter nearly as well as a proper synthetic media disposable element. MANY 'dusted' engines costing thousands of dollars in the diesel pickups that were the fault of oiled gauze filters that let fine dirt just slip right on by. Warranty denied. I have seen first hand the results of these filters on oil analysis. Just don't use them if you care about the longevity of the engine. If you want to do some reading on the subject, head over to any of the diesel truck forums. Diesels injest a lot more air than gasoline engines so they get the problems worse but the same things happen on gas engines and result in high silicone content in the oil. (sand).

Oiled gauze filters void engine warranties and the big 3 automakers have the data to back it up. It has held up in court already.

 

[Michael211_2000]

Well, I'm at over 200K miles on my 2000 GMC 1 ton extended cab dually truck and it's had a K&N filter in it's airbox since the 1st ~20K. Compression on all cylinders is good, starts and runs like a new engine... but, like I said I found holes in the K&N air filter after cleaning and before re-oiling it this summer; had I just sprayed it down with the red oil again and stuck it back in the airbox THEN it would certainly have allowed dust and crap into the engine!

As long as the filter element is intact and properly oiled down all around, I see no reason they're not just as good or better at filtering than the OEM paper elements. I'm just saying that they don't necessarily last the "lifetime" of the vehicle if you take good care of your vehicle and don't trade it off every 3 years (I know and am sadly related to people who don't take care of their vehicles and do end up trading them off for new vehicles like every 3 years or so as a result).

At some point I'll probably put a K&N air filter into my Spyder as well, just gotta figure out where the air filter actually IS on the Spyder 1st! LOL! (ps. I haven't yet taken the panels off to see where all the important innards are located, but I'll get to that soon enough; it'll need an oil and oil filter change here sometime next month and I will be doing it myself so wish me luck!).

Regards.

- Michael

 

[Magdave]

Well, I'm at over 200K miles on my 2000 GMC 1 ton extended cab dually truck and it's had a K&N filter in it's airbox since the 1st ~20K. Compression on all cylinders is good, starts and runs like a new engine... but, like I said I found holes in the K&N air filter after cleaning and before re-oiling it this summer; had I just sprayed it down with the red oil again and stuck it back in the airbox THEN it would certainly have allowed dust and crap into the engine!

As long as the filter element is intact and properly oiled down all around, I see no reason they're not just as good or better at filtering than the OEM paper elements. I'm just saying that they don't necessarily last the "lifetime" of the vehicle if you take good care of your vehicle and don't trade it off every 3 years (I know and am sadly related to people who don't take care of their vehicles and do end up trading them off for new vehicles like every 3 years or so as a result).

At some point I'll probably put a K&N air filter into my Spyder as well, just gotta figure out where the air filter actually IS on the Spyder 1st! LOL! (ps. I haven't yet taken the panels off to see where all the important innards are located, but I'll get to that soon enough; it'll need an oil and oil filter change here sometime next month and I will be doing it myself so wish me luck!).

Regards.

- Michael

Putting some info on your bike in your sig would help. Once you tell us what you have directions to the filter can be had.

 

[Michael211_2000]

Putting some info on your bike in your sig would help. Once you tell us what you have directions to the filter can be had.

Not looking to hijack this thread, I only meant to add to the info regarding the K&N air filters and how long they really last.

Don't worry, YouTube is my friend and I'm already looking at a video of how to change the oil and filters on an RS model. Thanks!

Regards!

- Michael