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Check Engine Light

meancj7

New member
Need any opinions!! This has happened twice now. I work during the week Monday through Thursday so am ready to ride Friday morning. I have a 2011 RT SE5 it is kind of cold during the evenings here in Sav. Ga. so I plug the tender in during the work week. Lastr two weekends I go to start the RT in the morning, temps around 45 to 60 degrees and get the check eng lt right away and of course the RT runs very rough. Am running Amsoil 10/40 which was just changed a few weeks ago has around 3500 miles on it. When this happened last weekend I cut it off and removed key, waited 5 to 10 minutes, started and no problem also no problem for rest of the weekend. This weekend same thing although it has not gone away after second try. All comments are appreciated. Mech said (Charleston, S.C.) possible oil psi upon initial startup because of cold weather. ???
 
My best guess is Throttle Body beginning to act up. Not to worry about really, at least for a while. When that happens, get the code by pressing the Mode button, the one next to it, and the signal switch at the same time, while the RT is running in limp mode. If the code P1614 shows up, it's a faulty Throttle Body.
The RT can still be started with a little patience and turning the ignition on and off rapidly 5 or 6 times, until the TB does right. If you are on a trip, but on your way home, I would suggest tying back your seat lock and using your Kill Switch when you stop for gas. DO NOT turn off the ignition. The headlights will turn off after a few seconds after you use the Kill Switch, so no battery drain. How do I know? I had to do that for a while and it works. Now have a new TB and all is well.
 
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Need any opinions!! This has happened twice now. I work during the week Monday through Thursday so am ready to ride Friday morning. I have a 2011 RT SE5 it is kind of cold during the evenings here in Sav. Ga. so I plug the tender in during the work week. Lastr two weekends I go to start the RT in the morning, temps around 45 to 60 degrees and get the check eng lt right away and of course the RT runs very rough. Am running Amsoil 10/40 which was just changed a few weeks ago has around 3500 miles on it. When this happened last weekend I cut it off and removed key, waited 5 to 10 minutes, started and no problem also no problem for rest of the weekend. This weekend same thing although it has not gone away after second try. All comments are appreciated. Mech said (Charleston, S.C.) possible oil psi upon initial startup because of cold weather. ???

Had the same problem with my 2010 RT. I bought it used last year with 3800kms. on it. Code would not show up the 1st time but after a couple of trips to a dealer they replaced the throttle body. It has worked fine since. Lost the whole summer riding but got it fixed with a 2nd dealer in the Fall. This year (fingers crossed) hope to finally get to ride the :spyder2: all Summer !
Smitty
 
Need any opinions!! This has happened twice now. I work during the week Monday through Thursday so am ready to ride Friday morning. I have a 2011 RT SE5 it is kind of cold during the evenings here in Sav. Ga. so I plug the tender in during the work week. Lastr two weekends I go to start the RT in the morning, temps around 45 to 60 degrees and get the check eng lt right away and of course the RT runs very rough. Am running Amsoil 10/40 which was just changed a few weeks ago has around 3500 miles on it. When this happened last weekend I cut it off and removed key, waited 5 to 10 minutes, started and no problem also no problem for rest of the weekend. This weekend same thing although it has not gone away after second try. All comments are appreciated. Mech said (Charleston, S.C.) possible oil psi upon initial startup because of cold weather. ???

I agree with Dudley as my wife and I live in Charleston and nither her RT or my RS has any problem with the weather,I'd have them check TB.
 
Mech said (Charleston, S.C.) possible oil psi upon initial startup because of cold weather. ???

Our Spyders are built in Canada...I think it gets cool there sometimes. Next time you see this "mechanic" who says cold WX causes it to hard start...RUN! He did not do well in the third grade, his second time!!

:spyder2:
 
Our Spyders are built in Canada...I think it gets cool there sometimes. Next time you see this "mechanic" who says cold WX causes it to hard start...RUN! He did not do well in the third grade, his second time!!

:spyder2:
Amen, George!!

Same failure in Amarillo in the snow/cold last October. New TB and never another problem.

Normal cold weather starting here seems to be 2200 rpm for a few seconds, quickly down to 1600 for a couple of seconds and then down to the usual 1300-1400. When mine failed it would hang at the 2200 until I turned it off 3-4 times.

thehawk
 
Same problem with my RT for the few times I rode it. I took it to the shop today, and they will check the BUD but think the throttle body is the problem. What was a bummer was I was going to ride to the dealer today for the 12k service but had to trailer it. And it was a very comfortable 70 degrees.:(
 
And I forgot to mention, I have used 10W40 Royal Purple Synthetic for 40,000 on our 2008 SE5, and on the 2010 RT for 18,000 miles with no problem. I agree, if a tech tells your the oil is causing the problem, look for a dealer with a "Real" tech, not a joker.
 
I have that problem sometimes. Dealer identified a sticking oil pressure sending unit. They didn't find any problem with the throttle bodies. They said there is a small ball in the sender unit that gets lifted when pressure comes up and if it sticks the pressure indication is incorrect.

I just turn it off and restart - usually takes two or three times but not every day. After a normal start there are no problems the rest of the days. BTW, oil is the 5-40 blend from BRP.
 
An oil pressure sender can cause a check engine light and it also causes limp mode. A throttle body failure can do the same thing, as can other maladies. The fact that the engine was not running right indicates it was not likely the oil pressure switch, unless the owner was describing the engine behaviour as he tried to reach higher rpm. The rpm limiter in limp mode make it seem like engine problems until you realize what is happening. The only way to ascertain what is going on is to look at the failure codes, either active failure codes via the manual procedure and the display, or past failure codes via BUDS. A good dealer will not guess at this, he will look at BUDS, but he can't do it over the phone.
 
A good dealer will not guess at this, he will look at BUDS, but he can't do it over the phone.

The notion of the sender unit was identified after a BUDS check during my 3K service. I would not try to troubleshoot this over the phone (luckily, my dealer is only 30 min away and they have a factory trained tech). My RT does not go to limp mode, only rough running with the check engine light and it does seem to be related to temperature. The tech mentioned something about the computers not in synch due to the fault.

I don't know the answer - I will have them replace the sender unit and continue to check the codes. Once started, everything is fine and she runs like a dream.
 
meancj7

Thanks to all for the help and info. (This site is great) With your help got a P1614 throttle body code this morning. Called the dealer, they will order first thing Monday morning with a delivery of 3-5 days and R&R throttle body. Is that all that should be done? Thanks again to all!!!
 
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