Check Engine Light, Full Screen, Bottom of Screen, and on in Tach

[solidgranite]

Good Advice...I'll Try That First

Well, first of all, put your checkbook away because it has nothing to do with the cat.

While that code can be associated with a bad O2 sensor, I personally received that code during a lean condition when I was putting on JTs air filter. The lean code followed after a few miles. Correcting the lean condition cleared both codes. Strange but true. Your results may vary, but that's what happened with me.

So it's your choice. If you want to investigate a lean issue first, and if you haven't done any mods, and the two little vacuum hoses to the MAP sensor haven't been changed yet since 2012, I'd start with those and run some Seafoam through it too, to see if a lean condition is the root cause. It wouldn't hurt to unplug/replug that harness plug to that O2 sensor a couple times. It could be a purge valve issue, also. If you rule out all the standard vacuum leak and dirty fuel injector stuff, then I'd look into a O2 sensor replacement. They're not that expensive but they don't fail that often. Based on what I had happen, that's why I wouldn't start there.

PS. And remember, codes don't always clear instantaneously when a problem is physically corrected. Typically the ECM needs to be operated through a couple of driving cycles for it to run its checks and be satisfied that a fault is corrected.

Thanks! It could well be a lean issue. (The strange part is that the bike runs great, even with the check engine warnings glaring at me.) The bike is stock with no mods, so I'll check the vac. hoses first. I've never used Seafoam...goes into the gas tank? I'll try to locate the O2 sensor harnesses, and unplug/replug them a couple of times. Then I'll take it for a test run. I'll post my results in here.
Thanks again...

 

[Bob Denman]

Those hoses can look pretty good; if you just give them a quick glance...
Pull them, and give them a good bend! nojoke
Any cracks will start looking pretty scary! :shocked:

 

[billybovine]

I would be surprised if it was a too lean problem. That should be a P1174 code. But you never know.
Inspect bank 2 oxygen sensor connector first. If it looks good and depending on your skill level I would swap the bank 1 and bank 2 sensors and see if the fault code moves to bank 1 with the sensor. I think someone a while back posted that they figured out the NAPA replacement o2 sensor. That may be a cheaper simpler option for a replacement. The BRP o2 sensor is only $75 each.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

That was the strange part of my lean problem in that I had both of those codes. And both cleared when it was corrected. Swapping harnesses a great idea but on the RT just too far apart.

Yes, get the Seafoam that pours into the gas tank. You can get silicon vacuum hose from NAPA, Summit Racing, O'Reilly's, etc.

You need hose that is 3mm ID, and cut them both to 85mm long. MAPS sensor is on the left side of throttle body. One hose in front and one behind. Pretty tight to work in there. Patience. And heck, while you're in there, look around for critter damage. These are all the easy, inexpensive typical problem solutions. If everything checks out, then it might be time for an O2 sensor.

 

[billybovine]

My fault I was not clear. Swap the the whole sensor from side to side. Not just the plug in.

 

[solidgranite]

Another Code Now Shows Up

I put a few ozs. of the Seafoam into the gas tank, and took the bike for a short ride so it would mix better with the gas. When I got back, I hit the kill switch, and did the 3 button thing. This time I got 2 codes: P1136, and Po335. The second code indicates a "crankshaft position sensor" issue, which could be simply a loose connection. I hope that's all it is.

I have no garage or inside space to work on the bike, so taking off the Tupperware is risky because we get lots of unexpected rain around here. I spoke with the dealership service guys, and they said it would be okay to drive the bike the 45 miles up there...unless the crankshaft position sensor fails or lets go completely. That will cause the bike to stop running, and I'd be stuck on the side of the road. I'm going to take that chance because other than the orange check engine message (and the other code), the bike runs fine...no missing, no knocks, no strange noises. Once at the dealer, they'll run BUDS, and let me know the resulting codes, and what they'll have to do to diagnose and repair them. I dread the amount that this will cost, but I want the bike running in tip-top condition. I'm planning some long trips this summer.

I'll post the results (and costs) in here. Thanks, everyone, for your help, advice and knowledge! It is very much appreciated!