Check Engine Light, Full Screen, Bottom of Screen, and on in Tach

[solidgranite]

My 2012 RT SE5 has been running great with no issues...until today. I got about a mile from my house when the "check engine" light appeared at the bottom of the center screen. I pulled over, stopped the bike, and checked oil and coolant levels (made sure both caps were seated and closed properly). Both levels right on the mark. I started the bike up again, and this time I got the "check engine" message filling the whole square screen, and at the bottom center, and in the tachometer! I immediately rode the bike home (1 mile) and shut it off, I rechecked the oil and coolant levels...all okay.

What's going on? Will this require an expensive trip to my dealer? If so, will it be safe to drive it there (45 miles away)? Is there anything I can do to diagnose the problem(s)? I know there are associated codes, but I have no idea how to get them, or what they mean. HELP!

 

[jtoro1]

My 2012 RT SE5 has been running great with no issues...until today. I got about a mile from my house when the "check engine" light appeared at the bottom of the center screen. I pulled over, stopped the bike, and checked oil and coolant levels (made sure both caps were seated and closed properly). Both levels right on the mark. I started the bike up again, and this time I got the "check engine" message filling the whole square screen, and at the bottom center, and in the tachometer! I immediately rode the bike home (1 mile) and shut it off, I rechecked the oil and coolant levels...all okay.

What's going on? Will this require an expensive trip to my dealer? If so, will it be safe to drive it there (45 miles away)? Is there anything I can do to diagnose the problem(s)? I know there are associated codes, but I have no idea how to get them, or what they mean. HELP!

Install spider codes on your phone has all the information there's an app for that . It's possible that your vacuum hoses on the left side under your throttle body

 

[billybovine]

With the key on and the check engine light on. Drive it if you have too to get the check engine light to come on. Press Mode, Set and Turn Cancel buttons at the same time. Write down all the fault codes that appear and post them here.

 

[solidgranite]

Thanks! I'll Try That...

With the key on and the check engine light on. Drive it if you have too to get the check engine light to come on. Press Mode, Set and Turn Cancel buttons at the same time. Write down all the fault codes that appear and post them here.

I'll give that a try, and if I get codes on the screen, I'll enter them here, and hopefully you folks can tell me what they mean.

The strange thing is that I ride the bike every other day, and haven't had a single issue, weird noise or anything!

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

check engine light

I'll give that a try, and if I get codes on the screen, I'll enter them here, and hopefully you folks can tell me what they mean.

The strange thing is that I ride the bike every other day, and haven't had a single issue, weird noise or anything!

You can calm down ....... like Billy said find the codes and get back to us with them ...... " LIMP HOME " is what will get serious ..... you aren't at this point ....... removing the key a few feet for a few minutes may actually clear this ..... if you have the orig. throttle body hoses they may be the problem ( easy fix - get new better ones at Auto parts store ) ............... Mike :thumbup:

 

[solidgranite]

Got NO Codes

I just tried the "mode-set-turn cancel" approach, and got no codes at all. At the bottom of the square screen was a picture of the whole bike, then would change to a picture of the engine...then the whole square screen would turn orange with the "check engine" message. The little engine symbol in the tach remained on during all of this.

If its a matter of changing throttle body hoses, I'll have to get some diagrams to determine where they are, and how to get to them. I've only take a few pieces of the tupperware off, and am not at all familiar with how to get to the engine itself.

 

[solidgranite]

Old Phone...Doesn't Have Apps

Install spider codes on your phone has all the information there's an app for that . It's possible that your vacuum hoses on the left side under your throttle body

My old cell phone doesn't run apps. I'll look into checking the throttle body hoses as soon as I learn how to get to them. I have lots of auto parts stores around, so finding the right size should be no problem.

 

[oldguyinTX]

I just tried the "mode-set-turn cancel" approach, and got no codes at all. At the bottom of the square screen was a picture of the whole bike, then would change to a picture of the engine...then the whole square screen would turn orange with the "check engine" message. The little engine symbol in the tach remained on during all of this.

If its a matter of changing throttle body hoses, I'll have to get some diagrams to determine where they are, and how to get to them. I've only take a few pieces of the tupperware off, and am not at all familiar with how to get to the engine itself.

Did you press ALL four buttons (Mode, Set, & BOTH turn signal) at the same tim? If not, you will not get any codes.

 

[jtoro1]

My old cell phone doesn't run apps. I'll look into checking the throttle body hoses as soon as I learn how to get to them. I have lots of auto parts stores around, so finding the right size should be no problem.

You should get silicone hoses they have to be the exact size and length. They are approximately 3 inches length they're on the left hand side of the throttle body. You take off the left mirror and the plastic body part that is on the left side under the mirror you could probably search for photos here on the forum,

 

[billybovine]

All three buttons need to pressed at the same time. I personally press and hold down the Mode, Set buttons first then press the Turn Cancel. Release all. So try again.

 

[youngers]

what is limp ? !!!!

I have heard the term , here a couple of times , but not sure what the term " limp mode home " is ?

 

[billybovine]

Limp Home Mode is a state that the Spyder goes to for some types of faults. If it is a safety issue the speed will be restricted. If it is a serious engine fault. RPM will be restricted. Also a third mode where speed and rpm are restricted. That's extremely rare.

 

[SpyderAnn01]

Granite, this thread has some more info on replacing the vacuum hoses along with pictures. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ugh-acceleration-issue!&highlight=vacuum+hose

 

[solidgranite]

Thanks!

Granite, this thread has some more info on replacing the vacuum hoses along with pictures. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ugh-acceleration-issue!&highlight=vacuum+hose

Thanks very much! I got a copy of the Green Manual but it doesn't go into body panel removal and all that. I'll check out your suggestion page for sure!

 

[solidgranite]

Did That...Still No Codes

All three buttons need to pressed at the same time. I personally press and hold down the Mode, Set buttons first then press the Turn Cancel. Release all. So try again.

I put the key in and tried pushing all 3 buttons at once...no codes appeared. I started the engine, and the check engine light came on, so I pushed all 3 buttons again...no codes, just blank screen. I hit the kill switch, turned off and removed the key. Went back inside (with the key in my pocket). Came back out and tried again...no codes.

What I've been getting isn't explained in the Owners Manual or the Green Manual! In the center of the bottom of the square screen, I get a picture of the whole bike from above! Then that will go away, and the engine icon will replace it, and the whole big square screen will turn orange with the check engine message. In the tach, the engine icon will appear in red. That doesn't change with buttons pushed.

Are there any other diagnostics I can do...like loose connections, etc.? Taking it to the dealer will be expensive and risky...they're 45 miles away, and I'll have to ride it up there. The strangest part of this is that the bike ran perfectly when I took it out the day before!

 

[solidgranite]

4 Buttons?

Did you press ALL four buttons (Mode, Set, & BOTH turn signal) at the same tim? If not, you will not get any codes.

Not sure what the 4th button would be... I pressed Mode, Set, and straight down on the turn signal button. Is there another button I should push as well?

 

[billybovine]

Certainly could be vacuum hoses. But you have no idea. Get the codes to point you in the right direction. If this thread goes on much longer someone is going to say you need a new battery. Then someone else is going to post that they had exactly the same problem and it was a oxygen sensor or crack TB manifold, etc. Point is you may spend a lot of time and money fixing things that are not broke.

Get the code.

 

[billybovine]

I put the key in and tried pushing all 3 buttons at once...no codes appeared. I started the engine, and the check engine light came on, so I pushed all 3 buttons again...no codes, just blank screen. I hit the kill switch, turned off and removed the key. Went back inside (with the key in my pocket). Came back out and tried again...no codes.

What I've been getting isn't explained in the Owners Manual or the Green Manual! In the center of the bottom of the square screen, I get a picture of the whole bike from above! Then that will go away, and the engine icon will replace it, and the whole big square screen will turn orange with the check engine message. In the tach, the engine icon will appear in red. That doesn't change with buttons pushed.

Are there any other diagnostics I can do...like loose connections, etc.? Taking it to the dealer will be expensive and risky...they're 45 miles away, and I'll have to ride it up there. The strangest part of this is that the bike ran perfectly when I took it out the day before!

Pushing the three buttons when there is no warning on the screen will not give you any results. Active faults only. Only when a warning light is on will the three button push work. Try again.

PS the magical key walk is a myth. Turning the key off for 30 seconds will do the same thing.

 

[solidgranite]

GOT THE CODE!

Certainly could be vacuum hoses. But you have no idea. Get the codes to point you in the right direction. If this thread goes on much longer someone is going to say you need a new battery. Then someone else is going to post that they had exactly the same problem and it was a oxygen sensor or crack TB manifold, etc. Point is you may spend a lot of time and money fixing things that are not broke.

Get the code.

Took the bike for a mile long ride, and the screen came up orange with the check engine message. As soon as I got home, I killed the engine, and did the 3 button thing...and got a code: P1136 The description is "LAMBDA sensor 2 upstream cat. intermittent/erratic". I checked fuse #12 and it was okay. Looks like I have a bad O2 sensor. Does this sound reasonable? I hope this doesn't mean I have to swap cat. converters...they can be very expensive!

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Took the bike for a mile long ride, and the screen came up orange with the check engine message. As soon as I got home, I killed the engine, and did the 3 button thing...and got a code: P1136 The description is "LAMBDA sensor 2 upstream cat. intermittent/erratic". I checked fuse #12 and it was okay. Looks like I have a bad O2 sensor. Does this sound reasonable? I hope this doesn't mean I have to swap cat. converters...they can be very expensive!

Well, first of all, put your checkbook away because it has nothing to do with the cat.

While that code can be associated with a bad O2 sensor, I personally received that code during a lean condition when I was putting on JTs air filter. The lean code followed after a few miles. Correcting the lean condition cleared both codes. Strange but true. Your results may vary, but that's what happened with me.

So it's your choice. If you want to investigate a lean issue first, and if you haven't done any mods, and the two little vacuum hoses to the MAP sensor haven't been changed yet since 2012, I'd start with those and run some Seafoam through it too, to see if a lean condition is the root cause. It wouldn't hurt to unplug/replug that harness plug to that O2 sensor a couple times. It could be a purge valve issue, also. If you rule out all the standard vacuum leak and dirty fuel injector stuff, then I'd look into a O2 sensor replacement. They're not that expensive but they don't fail that often. Based on what I had happen, that's why I wouldn't start there.

PS. And remember, codes don't always clear instantaneously when a problem is physically corrected. Typically the ECM needs to be operated through a couple of driving cycles for it to run its checks and be satisfied that a fault is corrected.