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998cc Changing the shift shaft.
- Thread starter Eckhard
- Start date
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Hey Eckhard. Well, the very first step in the shop manual says to remove the clutch cover and clutch drum. So.... That shifter arm and screw is aluminum and should have been a softer metal than the shaft. I trust that you've gotten aggressive with a wire brush, or similar, and couldn't clean that shaft up. I looked over your pictures again, and unfortunately, some of the splines do look bent, but is that due to imbedded aluminum in the grooves? Anyway, good luck with it. Good winter project.
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Well winter is coming to an end and soon it will be time to fix that shifter problem on the Spyder. I have read the shop manual and it says to remove the clutch cover and the clutch drum. It fails to mention removal of the clutch housing. I have researched this and the clutch cover is no big deal. According to the manual the clutch needs to be completely disassembled to remove the drum which I understand to be the basket of the clutch.
The questions I have are as follows:
Has anyone here changed the shift shaft?
Can the clutch housing be removed without disassembling the clutch drum. It seems so but I would like first hand confirmation.
Can the shift shaft be changed without removing the clutch drum/basket?
TIA
The questions I have are as follows:
Has anyone here changed the shift shaft?
Can the clutch housing be removed without disassembling the clutch drum. It seems so but I would like first hand confirmation.
Can the shift shaft be changed without removing the clutch drum/basket?
TIA
pegasus1300
Well-known member
Are you sure that it is the shaft that the splines are damaged on? Mine also had trouble shifting but it was the shift arm that was damaged. It is much softer metal then the shaft which is hardened steel. A new arm ($35.00) fixed it. If you really do have to change the shaft you are looking at pulling the engine and splitting the cases. Many dollars. If you do change the arm, the split in it aligns with the dot on the shaft.
Sorry to say but the splines are damaged.
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I already have the new arm but it won't go on. I would like to know what additional work I should do while I am in there and what parts like gaskets and seals I need to buy. I remember someone saying that something on the water pump should be changed while it is accessible.
Also do I need to pull the clutch basket. It seems like it but perhaps there is a trick.
. I already have the new arm but it won't go on. I would like to know what additional work I should do while I am in there and what parts like gaskets and seals I need to buy. I remember someone saying that something on the water pump should be changed while it is accessible.
Also do I need to pull the clutch basket. It seems like it but perhaps there is a trick.
speedycoop
Member
I would line up marks, tap it on, over tighten bolt and call it done. The splines do not look that bad unless they are gone on the other side of the shaft. If need be go one size bigger on the bolt that clamps it to get a better squeeze on it.
yellow peril
New member
If it were me I take a small file and carefully file away the distorted spline. looks like only the outer spline is damaged removing the distorted splines will leave you with plenty of splines to have the shift lever working. cheaper than pulling and tearing down engine.
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Hey E. I trust that you have a shop manual, so I'm not going to tell you a bunch of stuff you already know. Big picture - remove the clutch assembly and the shaft comes out from the right hand side,. You don't need to remove the motor from the bike. We communicated with this member last year who changed out his shift shaft for a different reason. He hasn't been on since July. He had an accident and the Spyder is gone. But, you might try a PM in case he comes around here every so often. There is some information on what he did and pictures in post #15 in this thread. The clutch drum appears to be removed. Otherwise, if you can't avoid it, just plan it out with the manual. It's do-able.
I don't see any relationship between this job and the water pump, unless it's just removing hoses because they are in the way. Good Luck.
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?119408-no-shift
I don't see any relationship between this job and the water pump, unless it's just removing hoses because they are in the way. Good Luck.
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?119408-no-shift
I don't trust that method as I don't see any axial support, circlip or other device that will take up the force except the shifter pawl against the back of the clutch drum which broke for another member here last year.
I might still do that or something similar with a dremel tool.
Hey Snowbelt, I got a manual and I did checkout the thread you mention. I also PM'd him a couple of times and got no response.
I'll have to check out the manual and see how far in I got to go. If I have to take off the clutch cover it becomes scary as there are plain bearings in it. I'll have a closer read one of these days. Stay tuned.
I'll have to check out the manual and see how far in I got to go. If I have to take off the clutch cover it becomes scary as there are plain bearings in it. I'll have a closer read one of these days. Stay tuned.
pegasus1300
Well-known member
Yes they are damaged but not that bad. I would go get a thread file and use it to cleanout the vallies and sharpen up the ridges, the get a new shift arm, tap it on new bolt a little longer, nyloc nut, tight it all down and call it good.
DGoebel
Well-known member
Mine appeared much the same last year - https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?114953-SE5-Gear-Shift-Lever-fail-at-30K
I took a mild metal brush and brushed that end parallel to the splines all the way around. New shifter arm slid right on when I'd cleared the valleys. Used some Loctite 648 on the shaft first, then popped the bolt through and used regular loctite before tightening the bolt and it hasn't fallen off or malfunctioned since.
I took a mild metal brush and brushed that end parallel to the splines all the way around. New shifter arm slid right on when I'd cleared the valleys. Used some Loctite 648 on the shaft first, then popped the bolt through and used regular loctite before tightening the bolt and it hasn't fallen off or malfunctioned since.
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Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
And E, just to expand on this a little - if you Google "shaft arm" you'll find about a million pictures from the racing world, of parts that are variations of this, that will be able to squeeze down on that shaft so tightly that the splines will be irrelevant. Perhaps something can be found that is close to the proper dimensions that you can modify to work, in case the OEM arm just won't do. Good luck.
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I'm with pegasus1300...a thread file will dress those splines without removing metal like a file or Dremel (which may lead to brittle splines and a much more time-consuming and expensive repair later on). Check the local auto parts stores to see if they rent them...there are typically two sizes with eight different thread pitches on each.
There is one problem with doing this with a file. I can't see that kind of detail anymore. SOOO I have been designing a jig/holder to hold the Dremel and guide it along the tooth and completely remove the crooked ones. I'll show when I have a design I am satisfied with. I should to be able to have it 3D printed at reasonable cost.
pegasus1300
Well-known member
I have the same problem but I find a set of jeweler glasses that wrap round my head and can flip out of the way solve the problem for me. In using a thread file, the teeth will fit between the splines and you can feel where they are. I have done this several times and it is easier then it sounds.
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