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Changing front shocks

canamjhb

Well-known member
I purchased a used 2014 Spyder RT Ltd that had Elka shocks on the front. Both shocks were leaking and the selling dealer gave me new OEM shocks. After much research on this forum, I tackled the job today. My big concern was using the motorcycle lift for the first time. That turned out to be a piece of cake. Where I had difficulties was dealing with the top bolts. Hard to gain access to the front side and harder to get the bolts back in. I enlisted the help from wife and her much smaller hands and after some bad words, the job got done. I plan to have the Elkas looked at and repaired if feasible and then reinstall them (Much to wife displeasure).


Is there any "trick" to deal with those top bolts and make it easier? Would it make any difference if the top bolts were reinstalled from the rear with the nuts up front? We did manage to get them reinstalled the way they came out with the nuts on the rear but just looking down the road for next time.








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I don't think it makes much difference on the bolts. I used an extra long hemostat on mine to get them out and back in. choice words do help!! the elkas are rebuild able and worth doing
 
When I put on the Baja Ron shock adjusters, I used extra long needle nose pliers to take the top bolt out and put the bolt back in. After getting the nut off the bolt, I got the bolt out far enough, using the pliers to hold it, to remove the shock, then brought the bolt away from the mount after the shock was out. Reverse on reassembly...held the bolt in place with the needle nose pliers, put the shock in place and pushed the bolt in and through the shock using the pliers. Super fast.

Gunner
 
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Shocks

Did a set yesterday. Here are the tricks, most courtesy of Baja Ron: jack up bike just enough to remove weight from wheel. remove lower bolt.,then go to the top. we use a 3/8 breaker bar on a short socket. That goes on the front of the left shock. Regular ratchet on the rear. Turn the ratcheting wrench until the socket on the breaker bar makes proper contact. Remove nut. Use a stubby screwdriver to push out the bolt while manipulating the weight of the shock. Off!
take a 1 inch piece of double sided, double stick tape. Place it sticky side up. I use a .45 shell casing, and punch a hole in the center of the tape. Slip tape onto bolt, sticky side up, and thread on the nut. Slide tape onto nut firmly. Remove nut, peel the tape cover off the other side. Without the shock in the way, slide the bolt in from rear to front, and start the bolt a few revolutions onto the nut. Now, pull the bolt aft to stick the nut in place. Remove bolt, insert shock insert bolt, carefully screw into nut without un sticking it from the tape. Put the breaker bar and socket on nut in front, tighten bolt with ratchet From rear. Re install lower bolt, nut facing aft. Done. Do other side. Done!!
Big time saver: if you are installing LED fog lights, do them with the shock out! Way easier!!! Call me if this was not clear. After a bunch of these, it gets pretty easy!! Joe
 
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Thanks Joe. If I understand correctly, you are putting the top bolt back in from the rear with the nut in the front. And you are using double sticky back tape to hold the nut in place while the shock and bolt are put in place. Then you are tightening everything up and the tape is still left in place and squished between the nut and shock frame bracket....?

You have simplified life. Thanks for the good info
 
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