Changed the front brake pads!

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I did the rear brake pads at 30,011 smiles & it was way too close for comfort … they were almost at the Metal …. the fronts were done today @ 42,861 :clap: ... they were pretty evenly worn (both sides) and I'm guessing I had about 2,000 miles left on them ...... Watched a video, left side about 30 minutes - right side about 15 ….. glad I did it …… Mike hyea: ……...Here's a tip, the front pistons go in much, much easier than the rear (I used a small " C " clamp) … after you retract them there is a huge amount of space between the Pads, I discovered that I needed something to put in between them to hold them in position so I could put the clip back on …. I had some pink foam board; and I trimmed a piece of that to fit … it went much smoother then …. :thumbup:

 

[trikermutha]

When I did mine the pistons pushed in by hand very easy on the fronts and the rear a needle nose pliers worked in my case.

I did the rear around 29k and was really close to the metal. Mike pushed his a bit farther hyea:

 

[RICZ]

Thanks for that Mike--good info.
Before I remove calipers, I measure the thickness and have piece of wood a bit thicker at the ready to slip in between the pads. When replacing the pads, that another story, but once I figger how thick the spacer needs to be, I'll mark it and save it with my brake stuff.
When pads are half gone, I replace them because that second, thinner half is nowhere near as efficient as the top half.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Thanks for that Mike--good info.
Before I remove calipers, I measure the thickness and have piece of wood a bit thicker at the ready to slip in between the pads. When replacing the pads, that another story, but once I figger how thick the spacer needs to be, I'll mark it and save it with my brake stuff.
When pads are half gone, I replace them because that second, thinner half is nowhere near as efficient as the top half.

Just a note …. if you have orig. OEM pads they have WEAR lines cut into them …. if you see the lines you have enough Pad left …. the smaller those line get the closer you are to wearing them out ….. I just used Ron's EBC Pads which don't have lines, I made some with my Router and a small cutting bit …… Mike hyea:

 

[JayBros]

I recently did both front and rear at 49.1K, did them all because I switched to EBC fully sintered pads. Put EBC rotors on front and will put on rear EBC rotor on at new rear tire time that is coming up pretty soon. My right front pads were both about evenly worn but outside left front was more worn than inside one and was about at minimum,-- the reason for the change -- and the left rotor had some scoring, more than the right but not really serious. As trikermutha experienced, the front pistons pushed all the way in with just thumb pressure. Since I bought pads and rotors from Bajaron I also popped for his tool to turn in the rear caliper and it worked like a breeze -- good for the next time. The front pads with shim plates slid right onto the rotors with no problem and the pins just slipped right in. The rear pads were a bit trickier for me because of my unfamiliarity with correctly squeezing the interior spring just right as I slid the pads in. When bedding in the pads per Ron's instructions I had never before applied the brakes as hard as I did in those six "panic" slow downs. The fully sintered pads and rotors are great.

 

[wd8ajj]

I will have 30K while at Spyderfest will try to get mine replaced there. Have a set of EBC ready to go. And pulling a trailer.

 

[RICZ]

Just a note …. if you have orig. OEM pads they have WEAR lines cut into them …. if you see the lines you have enough Pad left …. the smaller those line get the closer you are to wearing them out ….. I just used Ron's EBC Pads which don't have lines, I made some with my Router and a small cutting bit …… Mike hyea:

Another great Mike Idea from Mike! Ain't you the clever one.

 

[JayBros]

….. I just used Ron's EBC Pads which don't have lines, I made some with my Router and a small cutting bit …… Mike hyea:

Ron's instructions advise cutting slots in them; I just used a new 18T hacksaw blade. He also recommends slightly beveling the leading edges, both front and rear edges, to reduce noise in both directions of travel. His instructions are quite detailed and if followed, at least in my case, result in quiet and very powerful brakes.

 

[PMK]

Did you guys remove the caliper to change brake pads? I forgot, but thought the Brembos on the front top loaded the pads and did not require removing the caliper to replace the brake pads. Simply use a no mar pry bar to push the disc against the old pad before removal, then slip the pad out.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Did you guys remove the caliper to change brake pads? I forgot, but thought the Brembos on the front top loaded the pads and did not require removing the caliper to replace the brake pads. Simply use a no mar pry bar to push the disc against the old pad before removal, then slip the pad out.

I removed mine, no big deal, two 15mm bolts. I don't have a No Mar tool. …. plenty of room for a small clamp, even with the pistons 99% extended ….. Mike hyea:

 

[Bfromla]

Did you guys remove the caliper to change brake pads? I forgot, but thought the Brembos on the front top loaded the pads and did not require removing the caliper to replace the brake pads. Simply use a no mar pry bar to push the disc against the old pad before removal, then slip the pad out.

They may not need full removal but, with as ez as it is, still good to remove & clean all the dust & crud out. Also 1:gives you Bette view of rotor. 2:if you applied brake quiet to back of pads it is easier to put back together. Just a thought

 

[PMK]

I removed mine, no big deal, two 15mm bolts. I don't have a No Mar tool. …. plenty of room for a small clamp, even with the pistons 99% extended ….. Mike hyea:

Mike, no mar tool = round shank screwdriver or rigid plastic stick to pry with, even a wooden paint stirring stick. Agree, no big deal removing the caliper, but as I thought, not needed to be done.

 

[PMK]

They may not need full removal but, with as ez as it is, still good to remove & clean all the dust & crud out. Also 1:gives you Bette view of rotor. 2:if you applied brake quiet to back of pads it is easier to put back together. Just a thought

I have removed the calipers from the bracket on the uprights before. Per the manual the mounting bolts are supposed to be replaced each time the caliper is installed. Granted I reused them, but did properly apply Loctite. Prep for the Loctite takes a bit of time, getting that oem threadlocker washed away.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I have removed the calipers from the bracket on the uprights before. Per the manual the mounting bolts are supposed to be replaced each time the caliper is installed. Granted I reused them, but did properly apply Loctite. Prep for the Loctite takes a bit of time, getting that oem threadlocker washed away.

If I remember correctly, according to the owner's manuals …. BRP says to re-place any bolt you re-move from the Spyders with a new one ….. imho it's a legal CYA thing …. plus it makes BRP a TON of money...… if you tried to build a Spyder from the PARTS bin it would cost $ 75,000 + …. and if think at the dealership you get NEW bolts for everyone they TOUCH ….. well I have the Bridge for sale :gaah::roflblack::roflblack: ………….. Mike hyea:

 

[wmh9680]

probably 750,000

 

[JayBros]

I have removed the calipers from the bracket on the uprights before. Per the manual the mounting bolts are supposed to be replaced each time the caliper is installed. Granted I reused them, but did properly apply Loctite. Prep for the Loctite takes a bit of time, getting that oem threadlocker washed away.

I did the same thing. Before I removed the caliper bolts I wiggled the rotors a bit in a push-pull direction that pushed the pistons inward just a bit and the caliper eased right off. My Green manual says to clean the caliper threads with a tap which I did, M10X1.5, and wire brushed the OEM thread locker completely off the bolts, Washed everything with brake cleaner, let dry and used Blue Loctite #248 in the Chapstick type tube. Used Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant on the back of pads before reinstalling shim plates. One small plastic pouch of it was plenty for both front wheels and half of the rear job.

 

[PMK]

I did the same thing. Before I removed the caliper bolts I wiggled the rotors a bit in a push-pull direction that pushed the pistons inward just a bit and the caliper eased right off. My Green manual says to clean the caliper threads with a tap which I did, M10X1.5, and wire brushed the OEM thread locker completely off the bolts, Washed everything with brake cleaner, let dry and used Blue Loctite #248 in the Chapstick type tube. Used Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant on the back of pads before reinstalling shim plates. One small plastic pouch of it was plenty for both front wheels and half of the rear job.

I skipped the anti squeal paste and used the coated metal anti squeal shims. Obviously it squeals but no bother to me, sounds like some of the race bikes. Did not bother to modify the EBC brake pads, just ran them as they came out of the package. At a guess, this may be why there is a buzzing sound during brake application. Seems the oem Brembo drilled brake discs cause the slight noise.

Stops good so no worries about it. I do have a list of tasks I need to get to at some point, maybe then I will work on the brake pads a bit, or just get oem Brembos and put the EBCs into the toolbox as spares.

I have had similar squeals and buzz noise with EBCs on other vehicles, again they stopped fine so never bothered with it.

 

[PMK]

If I remember correctly, according to the owner's manuals …. BRP says to re-place any bolt you re-move from the Spyders with a new one ….. imho it's a legal CYA thing …. plus it makes BRP a TON of money...… if you tried to build a Spyder from the PARTS bin it would cost $ 75,000 + …. and if think at the dealership you get NEW bolts for everyone they TOUCH ….. well I have the Bridge for sale :gaah::roflblack::roflblack: ………….. Mike hyea:

The focal point was merely most people believe like many cars, you must remove the caliper to change brake pads. With Brembos you do not need to remove the caliper unless removing the brake disc.

Yes, I have removed both brake calipers from the uprights in the past. This was to resolve a serious pull to one side under braking. While troubleshooting, I swapped the discs and brake pads to opposite sides, validating if the pulling at brake application would follow the swap. It did.

When I recently changed brake pads though, the Brembo calipers were not removed.

As for that bridge, is it the bridge only or the land it rests upon too. After a recent visit to New England via I95, having a bridge you could charge ridiculous tolls when crossing seems like a huge profit maker.

 

[Flamewinger]

When replacing the rear pads the piston needs to be screwed in as C clamps will only damage it. Its because of the parking brake that you can't just push it back in.