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Cat delete, is it worth the money

I got my RLS cat bypass today...and he welded in the additional baffles on the input and output of the pipe that I requested...I'll install it in tommorow or Saturday.
 
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Lots of knowledge here....

Trying to take in what everyone is saying on this thread. I'm very interested in more power from my 2018 F3L. I don't have an ECU upgrade (yet?) but Lamonster installed a LG 1330 pipe removing the cat. I was/am naive about what I wanted from my new Spyder when I bought it so I guess I'm working backwards now. Sucks to be me!? So I need some help here. 1) If I go the ECU route does it affect the warranty? 2) Can I put baffles in this pipe or would any of you suggest or do something else? 3) Should I go the ECU route AND baffles? I've owned a few new vehicles over the years and never got around to customizing any of them ..... I am doing whatever I can on this Spyder! Ain't gettin any younger!!

Thanks to all in advance for sharing....
 
Just bought a new 2018 rtl and installed a RLS muffler, sounds much better, but is it worth the money to install a cat delete and will it actually increase the performance of the bike.

Thanks for any info,

I tried the Cat delete on my 2015 F3's. It lost low end power. I installed 2 baffles--still lacked off the line power plus was loud. I reinstalled the Cat, I have the Akprovac chrome straight shot muffler. I did the ECU stage one mod from Canada--it definitely improved 3000--8100. I am going for the stage 2 ECU & air box upgrade from Canada this month. Traffic has really increased here over the years but I did have an opportunity to hit 118 mph speedo & still climbing until traffic got in the way. this 118 mph was with tall windshield & saddlebags, passenger back rest on the Stage 1 ECU upgrade. After 3 Hayabusa's with engine mods, one with Nitrous, & the last with turbo putting out 344 rwhp-212# torque I promised myself I won't modify the engine on this f3's spyder. Evidently I have a short attention span :-(
Darrell
 
Just my own riding observations, but adding the Big City baffle to the straight cat delete really helps with the torque than without the baffle. It also sounds better to me. I never thought about adding two.

I originally added it to the cat delete when I first bought it because I didn't like the cat delete sound with the stock exhaust. After adding the BCT baffle, it was a lot better.

I bought the RLS delete and compared it to the cat delete / BCT baffle combo with the stock exhaust. I like it a lot more. It sounds better, to me. It isn't quite as loud and seems deeper sound. I'm guessing that it may have more back flow pressure than the straight cat delete and one BCT baffle. I imagine with two BCT baffles, it would be better.

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From what was posted previously on his website, essentially, the resonated pipe is still a cat bypass with no added restriction unless asked for. Merely it is a glass pack type muffler welded inplace of a straight pipe section. So yes, it will reduce or eliminate certain tones, and should help provide a lower exhaust note.

None the less, the Spyder 1330 engine remains a short stroke triple, compared to the rumble some are trying to emulate similar to the long stroke V Twin of a Harley.
 
From what was posted previously on his website, essentially, the resonated pipe is still a cat bypass with no added restriction unless asked for. Merely it is a glass pack type muffler welded inplace of a straight pipe section. So yes, it will reduce or eliminate certain tones, and should help provide a lower exhaust note.

None the less, the Spyder 1330 engine remains a short stroke triple, compared to the rumble some are trying to emulate similar to the long stroke V Twin of a Harley.

I agree with you....instead of trying to make it sound like a harley.. make it sound like a hayabusa..which is better.
 
CAT delete, my two cents - I have one on my 14 RT with a baffle …. IMHO, if the Monster ECU flash had been available that is the route I would have gone.... I don't think the weight savings is worth it (20 lbs. +/-) on a 1150 lb Spyder (plus 175 rider weight) - 20 lbs. isn't going to noticeably change anything. My RT was never in danger of over-heating so that wasn't an issue. I got mine used from another member ($ 150.00). Yes, the sound changed a bit, but not much (I'm happy I like my Tunes :yes: ) For the price of the ECU change, to me it's a no-brainer.... the Bang for the Buck is huge. ……………….. Mike :thumbup:
 
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I resolved the resonator issue by welding the smallest flowmaster muffler into the cat delete pipe. It is a baffled muffler and I got all my bottom end back. its the small muffler with one end offset. welded right in and was able to use the stock ends.
 
I just installed the rls cat delete system. Without any actual reading to show anyone. I didn't notice any notiable difference in low end performance. This is with just out of the box with no baffles installed. Exhaust has a little rumble with stock exhaust muffler at idle. I did notice the engine running cooler but then again its 30 to 50 degree depending on the time of day. The carpartment in front of the driver seat barely gets warm at all. Removing and then istalling the springs is not something I would want to everyday, but it wasn't that bad either. Install the cat delete let the thing idle for about 15 to 20 mins shut it off and restart and the computer will adjust for the change. After reading all the other comments I wasn't sure about doing this but now I'm sure glad I did it.
 
Davewho...When you say you didn't notice any change...that's actually a good thing...that tells us that you're running close to factory stock..which is very important..you chose RLS....good choice!!!!
If you haven't done so already..do a stage II RE-MAP...you will see what your spyder 1330 can truly do..there's a lot of untapped horsepower in that engine..
 
simple test to feel low end power loss

I just installed the rls cat delete system. Without any actual reading to show anyone. I didn't notice any notiable difference in low end performance. This is with just out of the box with no baffles installed. Exhaust has a little rumble with stock exhaust muffler at idle. I did notice the engine running cooler but then again its 30 to 50 degree depending on the time of day. The carpartment in front of the driver seat barely gets warm at all. Removing and then istalling the springs is not something I would want to everyday, but it wasn't that bad either. Install the cat delete let the thing idle for about 15 to 20 mins shut it off and restart and the computer will adjust for the change. After reading all the other comments I wasn't sure about doing this but now I'm sure glad I did it.

Anyone who wants a simple test to feel if your Spyder is suffering down low from a Cat delete is this.
From a slightly slow rolling speed hold the throttle FULLY open. Usually there will be a bogging or hesitation until about 4,200 rpm.
Stock our Spyders are very good through this rpm range. The riders reporting this hesitation or bogging feel are the more aggressive riders who use more throttle to get their Spyder moving.
The hesitation is not a big deal for most riders as they adjust their throttle usage to it.
 
Anyone who wants a simple test to feel if your Spyder is suffering down low from a Cat delete is this.
From a slightly slow rolling speed hold the throttle FULLY open. Usually there will be a bogging or hesitation until about 4,200 rpm.
Stock our Spyders are very good through this rpm range. The riders reporting this hesitation or bogging feel are the more aggressive riders who use more throttle to get their Spyder moving.
The hesitation is not a big deal for most riders as they adjust their throttle usage to it.

With the remap..the bogging is pretty well eliminated because you're getting a 100% throttle and not 70% which is stock.
 
The above from "Dennis in Lodi" is a very accurate evaluation of the cat delete. I took my cat delete back off & reinstalled the cat muffler the F3 came with. I had tried 2 baffles using the cat delete with less than adequate results. The Spyder needs the back pressure on low end & very few riders run on top end for any distance.
Darrell
 
Anyone who wants a simple test to feel if your Spyder is suffering down low from a Cat delete is this.
From a slightly slow rolling speed hold the throttle FULLY open. Usually there will be a bogging or hesitation until about 4,200 rpm.
Stock our Spyders are very good through this rpm range. The riders reporting this hesitation or bogging feel are the more aggressive riders who use more throttle to get their Spyder moving.
The hesitation is not a big deal for most riders as they adjust their throttle usage to it.

Dennis, can we have you more clearly or simply clarify with added details.

As I read your post / test, essentially you are accomplishing a throttle roll on test for accelleration.

You indicated from a slow rolling speed, open and hold the throttle wide open.

Seems ideally, since this is a street test, not a dyno run, that the slowest reasonable speed in third gear could be best. With a manual gearbox, holding third is a non issue when going to WOT. I am not sure how the semi automatic will accept this.

Adding more, the slow rolling speed you mention, I assume you are wanting around 2000 to 2200 rpm as a starting point, with WOT pull past 4200 rpm. If this is your target rpm range, then yes, it is likely anything regarding engine torque / pull below 3000 rpm or less would likely benefit from backpressure.

As an early installer of the cat delete, after a few miles it bacame obviously apparent that the power delivery had changed. Stock, our RTS preferred to be short shifted at no more than 3500 rpm. With the bypass installed short shifting is no longer best. The engine revs more freely and now comfortably prefers shifts in the 4200 to 4500 range. Saying that, the engine is making more power and torque at the higher rpm and pulls stronger. Seems the key is how the bike is ridden. Other than parking lots or the driveway, maybe our neighborhood streets, the rpm is never below 2500 revs. On the typicall streets, outside the neighborhood, almost always, the rpm is utilized between 3200 and 4500. No doubt it may sometimes be lower, or even higher, but typically that range.

Next time out, I will try your roll on test. Yes, I expect it to bog and dog until it winds up a bit. But for comparison, if a bypassed RT semi auto is ridden in the sweet spot of rpm, there is better usable power and the torque pulls hard through the previous oem falling off the power rpm point.

This is based on a Lamonster bypass and oem muffler.
 
The only thing have notice if there is a stronger smell of exhaust fumes when stopping. May just be my imagination I guess. I will have to do research on the stage ii Re-MAP
 
The above from "Dennis in Lodi" is a very accurate evaluation of the cat delete. I took my cat delete back off & reinstalled the cat muffler the F3 came with. I had tried 2 baffles using the cat delete with less than adequate results. The Spyder needs the back pressure on low end & very few riders run on top end for any distance.
Darrell

The cat delete that you added the additional baffles..what brand was the cat delete?...was it a la Monster or RLS?
 
Hey All

I have recently installed the Two Brothers exhaust and cat delete and I definitely feel at difference at wide open throttle from launch. Is there a baffle that is recommend for the two brothers setup? I have a 2017 F3s. Should I reinstall the cat and get an Akrapovic exhaust for better sound? Not ready to flash test since I only have 1k miles
 
Forgot to post back after doing roll on throttle tests.

I did not compare the stock cat setup vs the Lamonster bypass without baffles, simply tried the roll on runs with our no baffle Lamonster bypass.

The setup was riding two up, and pulling a RT622 trailer, with about 50 pounds in the trailer. 14 RTS SE6.

Used third gear, initial rpm was about 2000 to 2200. I never ever ride like this, low rpm with roll on throttle. I ride with preference to keep the rpm acceptable for the gear selected and current speed.

As described, two riders and trailer, grabbed a handful of throttle. The bike merely accellerated with minimal hard launch. Did several of these runs, and from that 2000 ish rpm it simply accellerated in a manner I expected. Not fast and race like, merely like a typical car without it downshifting.

The key though, is when the rpm increased. As the revs increased, at about 3000 you could feel the engine power coming in. Not wheel spinning power, just a strong steady pull, even with the extra load.

What does it all mean, there is no free lunch. As a rider and where we live, our Spyder very seldom is ridden at 2000 revs, nor is it always bouncing off the rev limiter. Our typical rides, and how I run the Spyder find it to commonly be run in the range of 3000 to 4500 rpm. With the no baffle bypass pipe, the machine pulls well. Yes it is louder than an oem setup with the cat litter box.

No doubt a remap would gain more power, but also is not free. As I have mentioned before, an RT is no racer.

No plans to change, sticking with the no baffles Lamonster bypass pipe. Never wanted the Harley rumble. The exhaust note for whatever reason has a good bark compared to others with the same exact setup. The power has a good feel and rpm range for us. And, yes, I track pretty much every bit of fuel burned, the mpg did increase by a very small amount. Not once but repeatably.
 
Hey All

I have recently installed the Two Brothers exhaust and cat delete and I definitely feel at difference at wide open throttle from launch. Is there a baffle that is recommend for the two brothers setup? I have a 2017 F3s. Should I reinstall the cat and get an Akrapovic exhaust for better sound? Not ready to flash test since I only have 1k miles


We do not run a Two Brothers pipe. In the past, most owners found they needed to run the smaller end cap since your setup is essentailly a free flowing race setup and the Spyder does not prefer that.
 
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