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Can't get the $#%$ trailer hitch ball off the sypder

Work has keep me busy so I have not attempted the trailer hitch ball....but I will have to soon.

I showed my bro, Stony Rodent, this thread because he was gonna remove my hitch ball this week. I was afraid it was gonna be a bear to do. Then he shows up in the kitchen this morning with the ball. He wedged a pry-bar underneath so the nut couldn't turn and turned the ball with a 2-ft crescent wrench. Easy peasy!
 

And if all else fails remember--Righty tighty, Lefty loosey! Remember it is upside down. Happens a lot.

Jack
 
Need to remove the trailer hitch ball from the BRP hitch. I can't get it off. I about gave myself a hernia trying to wrench it off :shocked:. Is there any special trick?

Thanks.....

I do not disagree with anyone's suggestions, but because not all have access to that long large bore pipe for leverage, I will give an alternative that I have used many times. Back the Spyder up so the hitch mount has a support such as a power pole or strong fence post or even the side of a garage door very close to it. This should be on the left side of the hitch so that it will prevent the hitch from moving sideways. Put your wrench on the nut on the underside of the ball. Have someone hold the wrench in position, if necessary. Sit on the floor in a position so you can push with your foot. I also like the idea of wrenching on the hex on the underside of the ball rather than the nut, except all balls do not have that hex. If you have been using a combination wrench as an alternative to a pipe, you can gain leverage by double wrenching. That is putting the box end of your wrench on the nut, then use a second combination wrench. Turn the box 90 degrees and insert it into the existing open end of the first combination wrench. Now your leverage is increased by the length of the second wrench. The foot is still a good way to go.
 
I do not disagree with anyone's suggestions, but because not all have access to that long large bore pipe for leverage, I will give an alternative that I have used many times. Back the Spyder up so the hitch mount has a support such as a power pole or strong fence post or even the side of a garage door very close to it. This should be on the left side of the hitch so that it will prevent the hitch from moving sideways. Put your wrench on the nut on the underside of the ball. Have someone hold the wrench in position, if necessary. Sit on the floor in a position so you can push with your foot.
Along that same line, although not applicable here, is removing the bolt holding the crankshaft pulley on a car engine. Put a wrench on the bolt, and then tap the starter. No bolt can resist the turning torque the starter motor gives!
 
I do not disagree with anyone's suggestions, but because not all have access to that long large bore pipe for leverage, I will give an alternative that I have used many times. Back the Spyder up so the hitch mount has a support such as a power pole or strong fence post or even the side of a garage door very close to it. This should be on the left side of the hitch so that it will prevent the hitch from moving sideways. Put your wrench on the nut on the underside of the ball. Have someone hold the wrench in position, if necessary. Sit on the floor in a position so you can push with your foot. I also like the idea of wrenching on the hex on the underside of the ball rather than the nut, except all balls do not have that hex. If you have been using a combination wrench as an alternative to a pipe, you can gain leverage by double wrenching. That is putting the box end of your wrench on the nut, then use a second combination wrench. Turn the box 90 degrees and insert it into the existing open end of the first combination wrench. Now your leverage is increased by the length of the second wrench. The foot is still a good way to go.
I will have give this a try....

Sent from my SM-G935V
 
Along that same line, although not applicable here, is removing the bolt holding the crankshaft pulley on a car engine. Put a wrench on the bolt, and then tap the starter. No bolt can resist the turning torque the starter motor gives!

Crankshaft pulley? Sorry I have not heard this one? ¿ On either end of car engine crankshaft is either a harmonic balancer (needs special tool on most engines) or the flywheel. So please enlighten me.

Thx

Also caution be sure the starter will turn engine in the proper direction?!
 
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Crankshaft pulley? Sorry I have not heard this one? ¿ On either end of car engine crankshaft is either a harmonic balancer (needs special tool on most engines) or the flywheel. So please enlighten me.

Thx

Also caution be sure the starter will turn engine in the proper direction?!
Just another name for harmonic balancer. It think it was commonly used years ago when auto mechanics were 'grease monkeys' before they became 'technicians' and started using highfalutin' words! :D

True, you want to be sure the rotation is correct before you try it! Worked wonderfully when I changed the timing belt on my 1986 Nissan Maxima. Some mechanic told me about when I complained I couldn't break the pulley bolt loose.
 
It is off.....

I was at a Halloween party last night and was talking with a friend. He ask how the bike was and told him it was fantastic. The only problem was I need to remove the trailer hitch ball and could not get it off. He told me to come by today (Sunday) as he had a compressor and air wrench.

I just returned.....it took the air wrench about 45-50 seconds but he got it off. I looked and I did not see any remnants of locktite, but I see what look like a thin film of grease on the threads. Not sure why they applied grease. Anyway it is off. Will have to invest in a compressor and air wrench for future projects.
 
uhhhhh just found a compressor , will let go for 350.oo before I do any thing too it ! { a crap shoot if you will hahaha } glad you got that dang ball off
 
I was at a Halloween party last night and was talking with a friend. He ask how the bike was and told him it was fantastic. The only problem was I need to remove the trailer hitch ball and could not get it off. He told me to come by today (Sunday) as he had a compressor and air wrench.

I just returned.....it took the air wrench about 45-50 seconds but he got it off. I looked and I did not see any remnants of locktite, but I see what look like a thin film of grease on the threads. Not sure why they applied grease. Anyway it is off. Will have to invest in a compressor and air wrench for future projects.

The grease is on there to prevent galling. If the ball and nut are stainless, short of cutting you would never get it off with out grease. The preferred grease would be a nickel based anti galling grease.
 
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