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Can we talk about tire pressure

I'll dive in here. The biggest reason for nitrogen use in tires is deterioration. Water in air reacts with rubber compounds and corrodes metal rims and any exposed cord steel inside the tire. Water is present in compressed air, that's why there are drains on compressors. Some shops don't do a good job of keeping water out of the compressed air. That water is carried right through the lines and hose direct to the tire. Once in there, it stays. One of the best things to do before filling/topping off a tire is to press the valve stem on the air chuck, if mist comes out, there's water in the line. I can tell you from fact, I have taken tires off rims and have had as much as a pint of water come out of the tire. Sometimes more. Too, there is a procedure to follow if putting nitrogen in tires that have previously been filled with air. The tires must go through a nitrogen/air purge. This is normally done three times before the final fill with nitrogen. Newly mounted tires are not subject to this procedure, unless air is used for the preliminary mounting. Another consideration. The tire dealer should have a system that generates 100% nitrogen. This system is expensive hence the high cost of nitrogen fills.

Bottom line, if you're going to replace the air with nitrogen, it has to be done properly with the purge procedure. If not, you're wasting you're money.

I have nitrogen in my truck tires. It was put in when I had the new tires mounted. I haven't noticed much change ant change in fuel mileage. I have noticed a better ride. I have had them topped off twice in two years. The tire dealer does not charge for top off. They also have the 100% nitrogen system. Would I put it in our Spyders. no. Because It's not worth the cost to do it properly.

JMHO.
 
"2 ply crappy tires", just curious if you did any research on your Spyder before you bought it, seems that you are unhappy with everything related to Spyders. Just a observation from this end.

Cruzr Joe, a Happy Spyder Owner





Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

So you are going to defend Kenda tires now ?:roflblack: No I did not research the tires on it I though $24k would get me some decent ones though.... I paid less for my Terrain. Right now I am frustrated because the myriad of issue mine is having so glad yours is so good have fun riding.
 
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:thumbup:
I'll dive in here. The biggest reason for nitrogen use in tires is deterioration. Water in air reacts with rubber compounds and corrodes metal rims and any exposed cord steel inside the tire. Water is present in compressed air, that's why there are drains on compressors. Some shops don't do a good job of keeping water out of the compressed air. That water is carried right through the lines and hose direct to the tire. Once in there, it stays. One of the best things to do before filling/topping off a tire is to press the valve stem on the air chuck, if mist comes out, there's water in the line. I can tell you from fact, I have taken tires off rims and have had as much as a pint of water come out of the tire. Sometimes more. Too, there is a procedure to follow if putting nitrogen in tires that have previously been filled with air. The tires must go through a nitrogen/air purge. This is normally done three times before the final fill with nitrogen. Newly mounted tires are not subject to this procedure, unless air is used for the preliminary mounting. Another consideration. The tire dealer should have a system that generates 100% nitrogen. This system is expensive hence the high cost of nitrogen fills.

Bottom line, if you're going to replace the air with nitrogen, it has to be done properly with the purge procedure. If not, you're wasting you're money.

I have nitrogen in my truck tires. It was put in when I had the new tires mounted. I haven't noticed much change ant change in fuel mileage. I have noticed a better ride. I have had them topped off twice in two years. The tire dealer does not charge for top off. They also have the 100% nitrogen system. Would I put it in our Spyders. no. Because It's not worth the cost to do it properly.

JMHO.
Exactly my experience with my Vettes and I forgot to mention the water part it caused my chromed rims to bubble on the beads causing leaks which is why I went nitro to begin with thanks for sharing good info:thumbup:
 
Other than the fact that they're only a two-ply tire; what's wrong with the oem Kendas?? :dontknow:
Are they sneaking out at night to steal from other houses in your neighborhood?
Are they adicted to painkillers?
Are they cheating on their income taxes?

You've been rather non-specifc; what's up??
 
Other than the fact that they're only a two-ply tire; what's wrong with the oem Kendas?? :dontknow:
Are they sneaking out at night to steal from other houses in your neighborhood?
Are they adicted to painkillers?
Are they cheating on their income taxes?

You've been rather non-specifc; what's up??
:roflblack: Uh the fact that they are 2 ply is enough. How about a 3-5k life on the rear that is just unacceptable in a world that has Kuhmo's that will go 50k and cost less?
 
2 ply. That's why I had to replace the rear tire on my RTS when it went flat a few months back. I drove at a very slow speed probably 1/3 mile to a parking lot and the inside of the tire was toast by the time I stopped. I drove 1/2 mile on a flat tire on my fully loaded work van. All it needed was a plug and air and It was good to go.
 
I haven't heard of anybody going 50,000 miles on a Kumho yet...
Sorry Dave; you get the Bull:cus: card thrown for that one. :gaah:
Even I got 7,000 miles out the OEM, and only 8,000 out of the Falken that I tried next...
The front tires had 17,000 miles on them... They were almost ready for replacement, but could have been stretched to 20,000 miles.

I don't like the idea of a two-ply tire either; but calling it junk without factual data or more information is just... inflammatory. :gaah:
 
I'll dive in here. The biggest reason for nitrogen use in tires is deterioration. Water in air reacts with rubber compounds and corrodes metal rims and any exposed cord steel inside the tire. Water is present in compressed air, that's why there are drains on compressors. Some shops don't do a good job of keeping water out of the compressed air. That water is carried right through the lines and hose direct to the tire. Once in there, it stays. One of the best things to do before filling/topping off a tire is to press the valve stem on the air chuck, if mist comes out, there's water in the line. I can tell you from fact, I have taken tires off rims and have had as much as a pint of water come out of the tire. Sometimes more. Too, there is a procedure to follow if putting nitrogen in tires that have previously been filled with air. The tires must go through a nitrogen/air purge. This is normally done three times before the final fill with nitrogen. Newly mounted tires are not subject to this procedure, unless air is used for the preliminary mounting. Another consideration. The tire dealer should have a system that generates 100% nitrogen. This system is expensive hence the high cost of nitrogen fills.

Bottom line, if you're going to replace the air with nitrogen, it has to be done properly with the purge procedure. If not, you're wasting you're money.

I have nitrogen in my truck tires. It was put in when I had the new tires mounted. I haven't noticed much change ant change in fuel mileage. I have noticed a better ride. I have had them topped off twice in two years. The tire dealer does not charge for top off. They also have the 100% nitrogen system. Would I put it in our Spyders. no. Because It's not worth the cost to do it properly.

JMHO.
Good explanation. The water in the air is really the biggest enemy, especially as far as wheel corrosion and tire deterioration is concerned. Few gas stations, home garages, or even tire shops go to the expense and trouble of installing air driers. Those can do a good job, but are typically restriced to instrumentation and pneumatic controls systems, where the water can wreak real havoc. They are also used where air is compressed into high pressure cylinders, to prevent corrosion to the cylinders, and to avoid other problems. Instead of nitrogen, bottled air is often a good alternative, just because it is dry.

The nitrogen purge procedure is seldom used, from what I have seen, but is quite essential. In addition, overfilling the hot tires is a good idea, so they can be bled down to the proper cold pressure when they are cool. You can't drive to the tire shop and keep them cool, and taking them off and taking them to the tire store is a lot of work. Probably easier to just check your tire pressure frequently as an alternative. JMHO
 
I haven't heard of anybody going 50,000 miles on a Kumho yet...
Sorry Dave; you get the Bull:cus: card thrown for that one. :gaah:
Even I got 7,000 miles out the OEM, and only 8,000 out of the Falken that I tried next...
The front tires had 17,000 miles on them... They were almost ready for replacement, but could have been stretched to 20,000 miles.

I don't like the idea of a two-ply tire either; but calling it junk without factual data or more information is just... inflammatory. :gaah:

http://www.tirerack.com/survey/Surv...m=25HR5EAST&tirePageLocQty=&partnum=25HR5EAST

Click all reviews and by mileage nuff said except I know Falkens suck why do you thing they are the cheapest on the market. I used Kumhos on my Vettes plus they come with a warranty.

http://www.ehow.com/info_12161014_fourply-rated-tires-mean-motorcycle.html
 
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I agree Scotty. That's what is used for firefighter SCBA and some dive tanks. I say some because dive tanks can contain other mixtures.
 
I very much suspect BRP did the 2-ply tire for a couple of reasons. Weight would be one. On a light vehicle like the Spyder it is important to keep the unsprung weight to a minimum. Thicker, stiffer tires have more meat, so they weigh more. Second, they obviously desired a certain amount of sidewall flex in the tires, if you look at their recommended tire pressures. That is undoubtedly for suspension and handling reasons...although most of us run higher pressures and improve the handling with suspension mods, seeking a different level of performance than they apparemntly envisioned. All vehicles are delivered with the tires the engineers thought would do the job the way they wanted, at the price point the accountants projected. No common production vehicle I know of uses the very best, although some better ones are sometimes offered as options. The aftermarket wouldn't exist if the factories all supplied the perfect tire for every owner and application. If the Kenda doesn't suit you, so be it. Change to something else if you find something you like. That doesn't mean they are crap...just production quality tires, aimed at the masses. JMHO
 
My understanding is the Kuhmos weigh less than the Kenda. It has to be true I read it on the internet in SL. Being a GM retiree who worked in the wheel mounting room you do not want to get me started on the crappy OEM tire issues we had. It is all about the Benjamins and BRP (Kenda)is ripping us off on tire prices. The engineers also thought the 2013 changes were a good idea too:roflblack:
 
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I very much suspect BRP did the 2-ply tire for a couple of reasons. Weight would be one. On a light vehicle like the Spyder it is important to keep the unsprung weight to a minimum. Thicker, stiffer tires have more meat, so they weigh more. Second, they obviously desired a certain amount of sidewall flex in the tires, if you look at their recommended tire pressures. That is undoubtedly for suspension and handling reasons...although most of us run higher pressures and improve the handling with suspension mods, seeking a different level of performance than they apparemntly envisioned. All vehicles are delivered with the tires the engineers thought would do the job the way they wanted, at the price point the accountants projected. No common production vehicle I know of uses the very best, although some better ones are sometimes offered as options. The aftermarket wouldn't exist if the factories all supplied the perfect tire for every owner and application. If the Kenda doesn't suit you, so be it. Change to something else if you find something you like. That doesn't mean they are crap...just production quality tires, aimed at the masses. JMHO


Amen.
 
Stock tires are junk

I very much suspect BRP did the 2-ply tire for a couple of reasons. Weight would be one. On a light vehicle like the Spyder it is important to keep the unsprung weight to a minimum. Thicker, stiffer tires have more meat, so they weigh more. Second, they obviously desired a certain amount of sidewall flex in the tires, if you look at their recommended tire pressures. That is undoubtedly for suspension and handling reasons...although most of us run higher pressures and improve the handling with suspension mods, seeking a different level of performance than they apparemntly envisioned. All vehicles are delivered with the tires the engineers thought would do the job the way they wanted, at the price point the accountants projected. No common production vehicle I know of uses the very best, although some better ones are sometimes offered as options. The aftermarket wouldn't exist if the factories all supplied the perfect tire for every owner and application. If the Kenda doesn't suit you, so be it. Change to something else if you find something you like. That doesn't mean they are crap...just production quality tires, aimed at the masses. JMHO
I guess you were lucky not to have one of your front tires come apart inside giving you a death wobble almost wrecking the bike. Even the shop couldn't get it off the lot. You know all that safety stuff that is suppose to shut you down when something goes wrong? Well it didn't work and no alarms either. So much for all that safety system but they do go off when the outside temp is to high. RJ
 
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