Can I Replace the oil sump pan on a 2019 RT Limited or does the dealer have to do it?

[ssalfund]

does it have to be done by the dealer or can I do it myself,

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

does it have to be done by the dealer or can I do it myself,

Are you talking about this piece? The first step is to remove the engine. Why in the world would you need, or think you need, to do this?

 

[Peter Aawen]

What are you actually thinking needs replacing??

Spyder all run Rotax motors, and they're all 'dry sump' motors, so they don't really have what most would recognise as an 'oil sump pan', they have a remote 'oil reservoir' instead. However, there are still a couple of oil drain plugs on the engine block, but they aren't really in a 'sump' as such. So, can you tell us a bit more about what you actually think needs replacing (and why)??

 

[ssalfund]

Are you talking about this piece? The first step is to remove the engine. Why in the world would you need to do this?

View attachment 254813

What are you actually thinking needs replacing??

Spyder all run Rotax motors, and they're all 'dry sump' motors, so they don't really have what most would recognise as an 'oil sump pan', they have a remote 'oil reservoir' instead. However, there are still a couple of oil drain plugs on the engine block, but they aren't really in a 'sump' as such. So, can you tell us a bit more about what you actually think needs replacing (and why)??

I replaced the oil plug with the aftermarket 12MM plug from Lamonster the plug will not tighten and it will not also come out it just will spin in both directions.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

I replaced the oil plug with the aftermarket 12MM plug from Lamonster the plug will not tighten and it will not also come out it just will spin in both directions.

Well, if you are talking about the ENGINE drain plug - the one on the left side which is the one that is in that cover - that's a 14mm plug. The clutch cover side, right side, is the 12mm plug. They don't even look similar. But anyway, remove that plastic splash panel so that you can get on it better with vice grips or something, and pull on it while you're un-screwing it. Or something. Use your imagination. Maybe a more experienced mechanic will chime in here with a better way. But, there's going to be an easier solution than pulling the engine to pull the sump cover.

 

[ssalfund]

Well, if you are talking about the ENGINE drain plug - the one on the left side which is the one that is in that cover - that's a 14mm plug. The clutch cover side, right side, is the 12mm plug. They don't even look similar. But anyway, remove that plastic splash panel so that you can get on it better with vice grips or something, and pull on it while you're un-screwing it. Or something. Use your imagination. Maybe a more experienced mechanic will chime in here. But, there's going to be an easier solution than pulling the engine to pull the sump cover.

Do you think that I may be able to drill into the plug and use an ez out.

 

[BajaRon]

Having to remove the sump pan is a Very Bad Day. There are a good number of alternatives to fixing a drain plug before going to this nuclear option.

It sounds like the drain plug is stripped to where the threads aren't biting enought to go in or out. If this is the case, you need to get downward pressure on the plug as you turn it counter-clockwise. Then you will need a helicoil. If my diagnosis is correct.

In any case, I highly recommend trying EVERYTHING before pulling this pan.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Do you think that I may be able to drill into the plug and use an ez out.

Well, no. That won’t do anything for you. An EZ Out allows you to turn a bolt if you broke it off and don’t have a head to put a wrench on. Not for pulling on something. Based on your description, you haven’t broken the plug, with a piece left inside the hole. It turns just fine. It just won’t screw itself out. No grip by the threads. Seems like it would just spin around anyway, if trying to drill. You need to get outward/downward pressure on the plug using the plug’s bolt head, while unscrewing it at the same time. You’ll get a lot more force that way.

 

[Jetfixer]

I agree with all comments above. Try to get something under the head of the plug to pry downward on. If the threads are completely stripped out, all thats holding it in are the o-rings. It might just pop out. If there's any thread left at all, you will want to turn it while prying downward. If you can't quite get a small flat tool like a screwdriver under the head, you could lightly tap on a tool and "deform" the soft crush washer thats under the head until you can get a flat edge under the head. You won't be reusing this washer or plug again anyway. After you get the plug out you will need to install a helicoil. Once repaired, plan on doing another oil change almost immediately to flush out any drilling leftovers from installing the helicoil. Now would be a good time to invest in a torque wrench and replacement hex headed magnetic drain plugs.

 

[BajaRon]

I would start with some vice grips, if you can get them on the head. If a standard pair won't work, try a needle nose version. Pull down hard while turning. If you're lucky, that will get things started. If you pry, be carful not to damage the machined gasket mating surface on the pan.

 

[JayBros]

From reading the posts on this thread I do not disagree with any of the suggested removal steps offered, but I am prompted to ask several questions: (1) Is this 2019 RT new to you, or have you ever changed the oil in this Spyder? (2) Are you are talking about the drain plug on the left side of the roadster as you are sitting on the vehicle? (3) Does the plug in the oil sump, PN 420611740, have a hole in the center of the head or what may appear to be a rounded off hex head on it? (4) Can you turn the plug at all with your fingers or a pair of pliers? I ask the questions because the oil sump, aka crankcase, and the 2019 RT M14 x 1.5 plug have exactly the same part numbers as on my Spyder, the first year of the Rotax 1330 ACE engine. The oil sump plug, PN 420441681, is designed to be removed with a Torx Bit, size T45. Someone who doesn't know that the plug requires a Torx bit but could see there is a hole in the plug might have attempted to remove it with a 7/32" Allen wrench and rounded off the Torx bit splines. Unfortunately, there is a history of people mistakingly tackling the plug with a bum size Allen wrench. Using a T40 vice the required T45 Torx bit will begin to damage the OEM plug and could result in someone then mucking up the plug with the wrong size Allen wrench. One can drill out the hole in the plug and attempt to remove it with an easy out. The best thing you can do is photograph the plug so the members who are far more experienced than I can give you the best advice.

 

[TheMariner]

The OP said "I replaced the oil plug with the aftermarket 12MM plug..", therefore I believe he's talking about the aftermarket steel clutch-side plug with the male hex. In which case there are no o-rings involved and there should be ample 'something' to grab hold of with vice grips to pull downward.

 

[Little Blue]

I believe at this point I would let a trained Spyder technician handle this problem. If this was my Spyder that's what I would do.

Just saying for peace of mind.
Good Luck with Your Mission.