• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Can I get a definitive answer on trailer hitches?

So I take you agree with me that a tender does not need to be plugged into your Spyder every minute that it is parked. But is a good idea when sitting for long periods like a few weeks. Depending on addons that have a parasitic load of course.

Absolutely


So I see you agree that the oil level being a little low will not affect shifting of SE5. I hope we can agree that when the oil gets about 1 quart below the add line shifting will be affected.

Absolutely

So you believe filing your oil to the full line will somehow force oil into the airbox. I would be interested in your explanation in how and why that would happen. Please be detailed in explaining the route that the oil would take from the oil tank to the air box. Also why it would follow this route when near full and not when a little lower. Here is a copy of the oil plumbing to help you.

It has nothing to do with the plumbing. I has to do with the engine case having to much oil and the line that returns Pressure to the airbox from the engine. The oil foams more when over filled from crank shaft revolutions overly splashing that foam may get sucked up into the air box via the breather. I also mentioned that filling the oil cold will cause the same issue and worse.:thumbup:

This may explain more what I believe

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...warm-up-reduce-blow-by-oil-(oil-in-the-airbox)

Now the stator puts out max 30 amps on the 998 vs 100 amps on the 1330 alternator. The conclusion is obvious the stator will take much longer to charge the battery especially idling.
 
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Bob Denman said:
Please point out ONE relevant episode of an RT experiencing this phenomenon...
Click to expand...

I can! At my 9600 mile I had about 2 tablespoons worth of oil in my airbox.
Wiped it out with a rag.
Also had to clean out the vacuum valve for the clutch assist as it was contaminated with oil.

Bob
 
Bob Denman said:
Please point out ONE relevant episode of an RT experiencing this phenomenon...
Click to expand...

Not the answer I asked for what is the major difference between the 2 engines and airboxes? If you don't know that is ok. ....now back to the OP question. After looking at both
mvYeLLnV0nl1RyFBIOvxj7Q.jpg


x1_64fefded62cc460881f0d32e011e2011.jpg


The difference is obvious to me the BBP is flat stock BRP is not. BRP advertises "Patent pending impact absorbing mechanical design ensures trailer and vehicle performance are maximized" BBP does not. I have a BRP hitch waiting in the garage :thumbup:
 
finless said:
I can! At my 9600 mile I had about 2 tablespoons worth of oil in my airbox.
Wiped it out with a rag.
Also had to clean out the vacuum valve for the clutch assist as it was contaminated with oil.

Bob
Click to expand...

You were talking about getting the valves checked. Tell the tech that you are getting oil in the air box. I have not done it but from I have been told it only an extra 15 minutes labour to fix while you're already in there.
 
Magdave said:
It has nothing to do with the plumbing. I has to do with the engine case having to much oil and the line that returns Pressure to the airbox from the engine. The oil foams more when over filled from crank shaft revolutions overly splashing that foam may get sucked up into the air box via the breather. I also mentioned that filling the oil cold will cause the same issue and worse.:thumbup:

This may explain more what I believe

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...warm-up-reduce-blow-by-oil-(oil-in-the-airbox)

Now the stator puts out max 30 amps on the 998 vs 100 amps on the 1330 alternator. The conclusion is obvious the stator will take much longer to charge the battery especially idling.
Click to expand...
.

From personal experience on my 2009 GS every 3 to 4 weeks I had to clean the oil out of the air box. That is how long it took to start dripping out the right side and make a mess. At the time the common wisdom was to put less oil in it. I kept the oil level just above the add line. Guess what it did not help. It took the same amount of time to make the mess. I then put a small piece open cell foam in the breather tube and this reduced the service time to once a year. Then comes the 2013 ST after 2 seasons of riding I have got nothing more than a thin film of oil near the breather tube. In those 2 years the oil has been overfilled 4 times for various reasons. That does not fit your theory. Sorry.

The stator does not put out anything or charge anything. The stator with the spinning magnets around make a magneto and magneto make power and charges the battery. There was never a Spyder with that low an output rating from the magneto. 30 amp X 12 volts that's only 360 watts. The 990 series engines had a rating of 500 watts (40 amp) and the 991 series had a rating of 650 watts (55 amp). I have not closely look at the alternator in the 1330 engine, but I assume it is the standard configuration with the stator around the outside of a spinning field coil. The big advantage is the ability to meet the power demand over a wider rpm range.
 
Boy, did this thread ever take go on some fascinating tangents!

Question - what is the "magical key walk"?

I got my new hitch, in the original box and not even opened. However, there is almost no verbiage in the installation instructions for the new hitch! Lots of pictures which is nice, but there are many pics where it is almost impossible to tell on the bike the picture was taken. Any tips before I get started?
 
OverHillAndDale said:
Question - what is the "magical key walk"?

I got my new hitch, in the original box and not even opened. However, there is almost no verbiage in the installation instructions for the new hitch! Lots of pictures which is nice, but there are many pics where it is almost impossible to tell on the bike the picture was taken. Any tips before I get started?
Click to expand...

I will let the RT people advise you on the process. My ST uses the same harness and hitch but all the panels to remove to get under the seat are different.

In regards to the magical key walk. You must have read it. It has evolved over the years, but the most recent version is something like this. When having any type of problem with your Spyder. Turn off the key and remove it. Walk away 30 feet or more for a minimum of 10 minutes. Then what ever defect that had been there magically disappears and you can happily drive on. The truth is on rare occasions some types of faults are temporary or are due to some anomaly. Depending on the fault type you may need to power down the gauge cluster to change the status from active to occurred. To do that you need to turn off the key and wait until the gauge cluster powers down. About 20 seconds so wait 30 to make sure. If it make you feel better take out the key.
 
OverHillAndDale said:
Question - what is the "magical key walk"?

I got my new hitch, in the original box and not even opened. However, there is almost no verbiage in the installation instructions for the new hitch! Lots of pictures which is nice, but there are many pics where it is almost impossible to tell on the bike the picture was taken. Any tips before I get started?
Click to expand...

Dale I had Big #1 install mine but I will be glad to come over and help... We can use my bike as a template for doing yours. Let me know when you want to attempt it.
 
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