Cable hand brake

[Magic Man]

Good to hear, Evan. Did you build something similar to Lamonster's original set up?

Kind of.

However, I used a bit different math in figuring the lever lengths, throws and cable angles.

That is what gives mine the ability to have enough power to kick in the ABS at will, not mash to the bar like so many of the attempted cable set ups do .

MM

 

[BajaRon]

It can't... you have ABS. :shocked:

.

You can lock up the brakes on a Spyder, and I have done it... just not with the hand brake.

 

[Swordsman]

Not to dwell on this too much, but it would make a terrible ATV if that's what you want to call it. With roughly 6 inches of ground clearance and a nanny that will kick in on something as tame as a gravel road, I doubt it is ready for trails or any other rough terrain. So, not even close to an All-Terrain Vehicle. I think they were wise to give it a unique name, regardless of whether or not we agree that "roadster" is the most appropriate name.

I simply mean the layout: handlebars, saddle, car-styled steering. Everyone wants to compare it to a bike because it has the handlebars and saddle, but it's physically closer to an ATV than either a bike or a car. And once upon a time, I believe Polaris actually sold "on-road" ATVs in Europe, though I have no idea what you would then call it.

~SM

 

[3whlLefty]

I didn't see the UK one. Is it much different than the one that Lamonster designed?
Also, I have found that even with my cable operated unit, it has a long reach to the lever, in order to get enough throw for the brake pedal.
As Baja Ron said, mine will not lock up the brakes.

It was on page 2 on one of Lamont's postings

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5048&page=2

Look about halfway down. I think it looks like a great design and very simple.

 

[Arthur---Mexico]

I made a mechanical hand brake using Harley parts from J&P. I tested the clutch cable and it held together at 2,000 lbs and that's where I stopped. The trick is to get the correct ratio of movement between the cable's linear movement at the hand lever as to the movement required to push the lower brake cylinder. It took me four trys to get it right. But even though I used all the movement possible through the hand lever I feel that it is not enough to stop the Spyder in an emergency. The foot brake applies more linear pressure to the master cylinder than than the hand lever can accomplish. Using both at the same time is the way to go.

 

[clueless]

I recently installed the ISCI unit and while it is well made, I do have a few issues with it. The lever is a long reach from the hand grip and I have pretty long fingers. I removed the grip puppies from the right side and that helps a little.

Second, I have to pull that lever a long way before I get any brake contact. Just today I had the dealer look at the possibility of raising the point of contact on the brake pedal but they don't see a problem that they can act on. I have to pull the lever about 75% of the way to the hand grip before I make contact. That's not very usable for me. I'll contact ISCI next and see if they have any help. :gaah:

Let us know what they tell ya? just got the kit from ISCI to install over the winter hopefully... be nice if there is an easy way to adjust the initial setting and also the take up when applying...