C1282 Code and fix didn't work

[BigGuy66]

Tried the LPS reset procedure:

After a low pressure switch (LPS) problem has been solved, it is necessary to clear the occurred fault in the VCM as follows:
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. Wait 30 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch ON.
4. Press the brake pedal, you should hear two clicks.
NOTE: The 1st click will come from the brake light switch. Continue to strongly press the brake pedal to hear a 2nd click. This one will come from the low pressure switch. You may not hear the click, just push the pedal real hard.
5. Turn ignition switch OFF.
6. Wait 30 seconds.
7. Turn ignition switch ON.
8. Validate fault was cleared.

Didn't reset the VCM. Still showing Brake Failure. Now what? Dealer fix?
Jim

 

[jcthorne]

Did you fully flush and bleed the brake system?

 

[BigGuy66]

Did you fully flush and bleed the brake system?

I'm not a mechanical type and didn't know I needed to flush and bleed. I read on a post on here somewhere that a flush and bleed should be done by a dealer using BUDS. Is that true or can I do this myself with a buddy who knows about this kind of stuff? - no BUDS...

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I'm not a mechanical type and didn't know I needed to flush and bleed. I read on a post on here somewhere that a flush and bleed should be done by a dealer using BUDS. Is that true or can I do this myself with a buddy who knows about this kind of stuff? - no BUDS...

IF, that someone ....KNOWS how and has done it on another veh. ..... Yes it can be done ..... There will be a minute amount left in the ABS, however it doesn't really matter ( unless you are racing the Spyder ) ..... if done correctly " BUDS " won't need to be reset ..... google some video's about how it's done on the Spyders, there are quite a few .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[BigGuy66]

Thanks Mike - I'll check the youtube and decide if I can tackle it. I sure don't want to take a chance on messing something up and be riding in a dangerous condition. No, I'm not racing the Spyder, I'm strictly a pleasure rider.

 

[davev1pa]

If you do bleed get speed bleeders. No nonsense approach to bleeding. One way valve on caliper to allow fluid out and no air in. http://www.speedbleeder.com/

 

[Jetfixer]

IF, that someone ....KNOWS how and has done it on another veh. ..... Yes it can be done ..... There will be a minute amount left in the ABS, however it doesn't really matter ( unless you are racing the Spyder ) ..... if done correctly " BUDS " won't need to be reset ..... google some video's about how it's done on the Spyders, there are quite a few .... Mike :thumbup:

I respectfully disagree about not using BUDS on brake bleeding. When I first bled my brakes on my 2015 RT at the 2 year mark, as recommended, it took about 3-4 ounces of fluid before the ABS unit ran clear. What came out at first was incredibly dirty. Mostly moisture. There is NO way way get this fluid out without BUDS. The brake fluid in the ABS unit, like the calipers, has no way to circulate. It simply moves back and forth a small amount upon actuation. Since brake fluid is hydroscopic, it absorbs moisture from the air. This moisture WILL cause corrosion. Since the ABS system has one purpose, to save you from locking up the wheels in a panic stop, thereby saving steering ability, corrosion in this system is not your friend. Most people may never utilize this system in the real world. If it's ever actually needed, though, it could fail due to corrosion. IMHO, spending upwards of $30k on these machines justifies doing some maintenance properly since it's our own butts on the line.

 

[Freddy]

I respectfully disagree about not using BUDS on brake bleeding. When I first bled my brakes on my 2015 RT at the 2 year mark, as recommended, it took about 3-4 ounces of fluid before the ABS unit ran clear. What came out at first was incredibly dirty. Mostly moisture. > snip

How did you determine that? With a brake fluid moisture tester or guesswork?