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C-Clamp on front brakes?
- Thread starter Brogers57
- Start date
trikermutha
New member
yes
SpyderAnn01
Active member
No, you need to use a pair of needle nose pliers in the 2 divots that are in the piston. You put the needle nose tips in the divots and press and turn clockwise. It takes a fair amount of effort to do it and it helps to have an assistant. I didn't have the grip strength to push and turn so I hold it and Joe turns it. It goes right in until it is flush. Easy, peasey.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
ANN NAILED IT
:agree::agree::agree::agree::agree::agree: .........You can " C " clamp the crap out of it.:lecturef_smilie:.... It will break before that piston moves :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:....................Mike :bbq:
jcthorne
Well-known member
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
GOOD QUESTION !!!!
:yikes:.....I've Only dealt with the rear so far, would BREMBO make the front and rear different ?????? :gaah:.........Mike :bbq:
Bob Denman
New member
Has anybody actually taken a look in the shop manual yet? :dontknow:
My guess aligns with Mike's; why would they make them different?
My guess aligns with Mike's; why would they make them different?
Bob Denman
New member
I stand corrected: thanks! :clap: :thumbup:
jcthorne
Well-known member
mmm, because the rear has a mechanical parking brake. It would be really odd if the front calipers had a ratchet mechanism for the pistons. In all the bikes and cars I have worked on over the years have never seen this. Its pretty common on the rear calipers of many vehicles though.
jcthorne
Well-known member
It was easier to stir the pot today than drag out the manual. Mostly because I was not working on brakes today.....
SpyderAnn01
Active member
A C-clamp can be used on the front Brembos. I just assumed that the original post was about the rear.
Just as an aside to the topic here, but since this is a thread where it may have contributed to the mis-understanding, it's probably worth raising....
Not all readers get to see your 'post headings', some just get to see the thread title - so if you want readers to know what you are really trying to get at, you really NEED to put everything you want to get across in the text of your post!! If you put something important in the post title, some of us will never get to see it!! :sour:
As for for the question from the OP, I've replaced both front & rear brakes so I can confirm that, as Ann & others have mentioned: while the rear caliper needs to be screwed in, the fronts you can just press in - but be careful not to damage the rubber boots on any of them!! :thumbup:
Not all readers get to see your 'post headings', some just get to see the thread title - so if you want readers to know what you are really trying to get at, you really NEED to put everything you want to get across in the text of your post!! If you put something important in the post title, some of us will never get to see it!! :sour:
As for for the question from the OP, I've replaced both front & rear brakes so I can confirm that, as Ann & others have mentioned: while the rear caliper needs to be screwed in, the fronts you can just press in - but be careful not to damage the rubber boots on any of them!! :thumbup:
Last edited:
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
BREMBO BRAKES
Me too.....:agree::agree::agree: ........I love learning important stuff :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:..............Mike :bbq:
finless
New member
OK so all the info I can type....
Up to 2012 all Spyders you use a screw driver or a C clamp to compress the pistons back into the caliper.
In 2013 and up they used Brembo calipers.
- For the fronts you can use a screw driver or a C clamp to press the piston in.
- The rear screws in as Ann explained due to the parking brake system. Some people seem to get stuck here. Especially if they move the parking brake while they have the caliper off and caused the piston to move out farther than it was. Be careful here!
FYI I do not like the screw driver thing. It presses on the piston at an angle and you can ding the rotor. I prefer the C clamp.
Use the old brake pad between the piston the and C clamp so you do not damage the piston.
Now another step to be aware of so you do not make a mess of it.
1) NEVER turn the key on while doing all this. You could get an ABS fault sensed and you might needs BUDs to clear it. Not saying you will but why risk it! Leave the key off.
2) Remove the caps off the fluid tank BEFORE pressing in the pistons.
3) Have someone watch the tank as you press in the piston. The fluid is going to rise and if your pads are really worn low and you added fluid before, there is a good chance it will overfill and spill out the top! Be prepared to remove fluid. I use a NEW turkey baster and toss it when done.
3) Once the pads are in, press the brake peddle a few times to seat the pads.
4) Add fluid back into the tank if needed. USE ONLY A NEW BOTTLE OF DOT 4. Never use a old bottle sitting around. Brake fluid attracts water and you don't want that in your brake system!
Enjoy,
Bob
Up to 2012 all Spyders you use a screw driver or a C clamp to compress the pistons back into the caliper.
In 2013 and up they used Brembo calipers.
- For the fronts you can use a screw driver or a C clamp to press the piston in.
- The rear screws in as Ann explained due to the parking brake system. Some people seem to get stuck here. Especially if they move the parking brake while they have the caliper off and caused the piston to move out farther than it was. Be careful here!
FYI I do not like the screw driver thing. It presses on the piston at an angle and you can ding the rotor. I prefer the C clamp.
Use the old brake pad between the piston the and C clamp so you do not damage the piston.
Now another step to be aware of so you do not make a mess of it.
1) NEVER turn the key on while doing all this. You could get an ABS fault sensed and you might needs BUDs to clear it. Not saying you will but why risk it! Leave the key off.
2) Remove the caps off the fluid tank BEFORE pressing in the pistons.
3) Have someone watch the tank as you press in the piston. The fluid is going to rise and if your pads are really worn low and you added fluid before, there is a good chance it will overfill and spill out the top! Be prepared to remove fluid. I use a NEW turkey baster and toss it when done.
3) Once the pads are in, press the brake peddle a few times to seat the pads.
4) Add fluid back into the tank if needed. USE ONLY A NEW BOTTLE OF DOT 4. Never use a old bottle sitting around. Brake fluid attracts water and you don't want that in your brake system!
Enjoy,
Bob
Last edited:
Brogers57
New member
Awesome. Thanks guys. I got it all figured out. I didn't know some cannot see the titles? Whatever works though. I'm trying some CRC brake quite. Got one completed yesterday. Currently in the garage waiting for this stuff to dry. Sadly it looks as if the log nuts and the inner of our wheels take a small beating if they are painted. [emoji53]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Motorcycledave
Active member
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