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Buy 2010 RTS Now or Wait for 2011 in January?

Pseudonym

New member
Hi Everyone:
I've been lurking here for some time trying to absorb all of the information, and would like to thank everyone for sharing their experiences and knowledge on this site.

I just took my first test ride today (2010 RTS SE5), and was very pleased with the results. It was a nice mix of straight surface streets (25mph), busy highway (40-50mph), and twisty hill roads with (45mph with 20mph corners). I've never ridden a 2 wheel motorcycle or anything similar, but I felt surprisingly comfortable after the first few minutes. The only down side was getting stuck in "Limp Mode" for the last half mile, which the dealer said was due to a complication caused by custom exhaust and a "JuiceBox" ECM mod not having been properly dialed in yet.

This brings me to the question: I've read so many stories about "Limp Mode" and other bugs and annoyances on the 2010 models and after this experiencing it on a demo unit, I'm worried about reliability. Should I wait another 2 months to see if the 2011 models are better, or take advantage of much lower prices and by a 2010 now? (i.e. lower prices because the dealers seem motivated to move old inventory to make room for newer models)

The slight suspension improvements, windshield and vent tweaks sound appealing, but what I really want is more confidence that I will not be plagued with the glitches others have talked about. What do you think?
 
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Hi Everyone:
I've been lurking here for some time trying to absorb all of the information, and would like to thank everyone for sharing their experiences and knowledge on this site.

I just took my first test ride today (2010 RTS SE5), and was very pleased with the results. It was a nice mix of straight surface streets (25mph), busy highway (40-50mph), and twisty hill roads with (45mph with 20mph corners). I've never ridden a 2 wheel motorcycle or anything similar, but I felt surprisingly comfortable after the first few minutes. The only down side was getting stuck in "Limp Mode" for the last half mile, which the dealer said was due to a complication caused by custom exhaust and a "JuiceBox" ECM mod not having been properly dialed in yet.

This brings me to the question: I've read so many stories about "Limp Mode" and other bugs and annoyances on the 2010 models and after this experiencing it on a demo unit, I'm worried about reliability. Should I wait another 2 months to see if the 2011 models are better, or take advantage of much lower prices and by a 2010 now? (i.e. lower prices because the dealers seem motivated to move old inventory to make room for newer models)

The slight suspension improvements, windshield and vent tweaks sound appealing, but what I really want is more confidence that I will not be plagued with the glitches others have talked about. What do you think?

The only down side was getting stuck in "Limp Mode" for the last half mile, which the dealer said was due to a complication caused by custom exhaust and a "JuiceBox" ECM mod not having been properly dialed in yet.
I'd go find a different dealer if I was you.
 
No real reliability changes for 2011 that anyone knows about... the suspension, windshield and air deflectors you can buy and retrofit for a lot less than the price difference between 2010 and 2011... or you can go aftermarket on all three and customize to your hearts content.

I'm not sure I'd buy something pre-modded like that unless you know what you're getting into. Seems strange for a dealer to be selling one like this...
 
Why would a dealer demo a bike that was not set up properly? You don't let the customer do your R&D for you... If you're smart anyway.

Something hinky going on there. And I'm not sure I'd buy the story. Not that it couldn't be true but because there are a lot more things that could be the real reason.

I'd say 2010 prices will just keep going down and especially once the 2011's arrive.

I think your best bet for reliability is a dealer that knows what they are doing more than the model year.
 
Regarding the modified demo unit

Sorry, folks. I think I gave the wrong impression by leaving out a few details for brevity.

I'm not considering buying that specific vehicle and the dealer wasn't trying to sell it to me. They didn't have an RTS SE5 in stock for test rides. Thus, they said they had a BRP rep bring them this one for me to try, which took a week to set up.

The idea was for me to determine if I even wanted an RTS SE5 before they arranged for a dealer transfer to obtain one that I could actually buy. This demo unit was obviously rather used and they said it had already made the rounds to most So. CA dealers to try out and show off. I have no idea why it was modded if it was demos, but that wasn't the dealer's fault.

Thanks for the comments on 2010 vs 2011. I assumed (perhaps mistakenly) that they would be eager to allay concerns about the recalls and complaints regarding the 2010 models and thus would subject the 2011 to more stringent testing and quality control. Perhaps if I get a 2010 new with all of the recall work already done, my level of satisfaction will be greater than that of people who experienced problems and had to take them back and wait for the recall work.
 
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You should be fine on a 2010 RT. The first Juice Box Pro for the RT did have a problem. I've been testing the new version for them and have had no issues in several thousand miles.

I say take the deal on the 2010. The only thing I would change for sure is the front shocks. Ask them to order those for you and install them and then you should be good and save a bunch of coin. Even if you had to buy the shocks it would be less than $300 bucks.
 
You should be fine on a 2010 RT. The first Juice Box Pro for the RT did have a problem. I've been testing the new version for them and have had no issues in several thousand miles.

I say take the deal on the 2010. The only thing I would change for sure is the front shocks. Ask them to order those for you and install them and then you should be good and save a bunch of coin. Even if you had to buy the shocks it would be less than $300 bucks.
What shocks would you recommend ?
 
i would wait till 2011 and buy a 2010 then, is only my guess that this way you save yourself most $$$. - i might be wrong, i just would do it that way
 
Thanks for comments and suggestions.

I'm currently leaning heavily towards a 2010 + customizations given how significant the difference in cost is. Being new to open bike-like vehicles, I'll spend a fair amount just getting my safety gear and a few must have accessories. The thought of getting a 2010 plus everything else I want for about same price as the 2011 by itself is very appealing.

I plan to go on another test ride (there's a demo event coming up next month about an hour from me) and/or see if I can rent one for a couple of days before I take the plunge, but it's looking increasingly likely.
 
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