Batmobil-F3
New member
How do you get a Spyder RS to a burnout like this? Any ideas?
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Burnout Spyder RS
- Thread starter Batmobil-F3
- Start date
Dennis in Lodi
Member
nanny over ride?
There must be some kind of tampering with the nanny to allow excessive wheel spin. The Daytona has a traction control selection to allow it to do burn outs like that.
My flashed ECU on my 2016 F3L can light it up like that but the nanny starts to kick in and the tire starts to launch down the road. I haven't tried just holding the brake to see if it continues?
Dennis
There must be some kind of tampering with the nanny to allow excessive wheel spin. The Daytona has a traction control selection to allow it to do burn outs like that.
My flashed ECU on my 2016 F3L can light it up like that but the nanny starts to kick in and the tire starts to launch down the road. I haven't tried just holding the brake to see if it continues?
Dennis
blacklightning
Well-known member
It was pretty easy on my 2012 RSS. I think that is what I miss the most when moving onto the F3T. The key to a good burnout on mine was to just keep the speed under 40 on the MPH gauge. If it gets sideways at all, or if the speed gets about 40-45, then the nanny kicks in and cuts power. Kind of a fine line. To me, that looked like what was being done in the video. He got his burnout by holding the brakes and keeping the speed down. I did that about twice, but most of the time I would start out easy, cut the throttle, then hit it again for a good rolling burnout:doorag:.
stevencovert
Member
SM5?
With manual tranny popping the clutch will do it, especially if you "jump" taking weight off as you pop it. The nanny will let you burn out to about 40MPH on the rear wheel sensor (I think - may be 30MPH) as long as both front wheels are moving the same speed. There is some math there. On my SE5, it will easily burnout on some surfaces better than others. I also noted that even on sticky highway if I gun it wide open it will take off and then break free and burn out at about 5K RPM when it hits the power band.
With manual tranny popping the clutch will do it, especially if you "jump" taking weight off as you pop it. The nanny will let you burn out to about 40MPH on the rear wheel sensor (I think - may be 30MPH) as long as both front wheels are moving the same speed. There is some math there. On my SE5, it will easily burnout on some surfaces better than others. I also noted that even on sticky highway if I gun it wide open it will take off and then break free and burn out at about 5K RPM when it hits the power band.
blacklightning
Well-known member
:agree:That is exactly right. On my 2012 RSS, that was the reason for getting up to around 3-4k, then chopping the throttle. Then when you hit it again, it would light things up. I still miss that bike, just to play with. I turned a friend onto a great deal on a 2011 RSS SM5. I told him that part of the deal would be that when he decides that he doesn't want to play anymore, he had to sell it to me for what he bout it for
. Considering he probably hasn't put 1k miles on it, I would give it about another year:2thumbs:. Lol!
Chupaca
New member
Curious...
One reads, not only here but on many sites, the high cost of tires and labor to replace them balance them etc. makes one curious as to WHY even do it. Much like the groups that sit there and crank on the throttle till they hit the rev limiter and listen to it sputter...hammering away at engine parts :dontknow: Ah well it is their money.....
One reads, not only here but on many sites, the high cost of tires and labor to replace them balance them etc. makes one curious as to WHY even do it. Much like the groups that sit there and crank on the throttle till they hit the rev limiter and listen to it sputter...hammering away at engine parts :dontknow: Ah well it is their money.....
Chupaca
New member
Risky....
If the Kenda is as bad as all here say it is you do run the risk of a blowout taking out your rear fender, splash guard ripping out the mountis to the side panels and possible messing up your belt and sprockets...:yikes: do it when it is new so you can get the tire of your choice as soon as possible....:roflblack:
If the Kenda is as bad as all here say it is you do run the risk of a blowout taking out your rear fender, splash guard ripping out the mountis to the side panels and possible messing up your belt and sprockets...:yikes: do it when it is new so you can get the tire of your choice as soon as possible....:roflblack:
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
Oh, oh--I think I see another "hooligan" post. We had a bunch of them in 08 and 09. :bowdown::bowdown:
It's your Spyder, it's your money. :roflblack:
It's your Spyder, it's your money. :roflblack:
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Now that's using you head! Great idea.
WA5VHU
New member
I never made a video but with my 2013 RS semi-auto all I had to do was from a stop, let off the brake and go quickly to full throttle and the rear wheel would break loose. For how long depended on the road surface - smooth slippery asphalt was best and brand new asphalt was not good. Concrete was so-so. Smooth asphalt in parking lots was usually the best.
The wife's 2014 RTL? Forget it, can't do burnouts in a milk truck!
The wife's 2014 RTL? Forget it, can't do burnouts in a milk truck!
canamjhb
Well-known member
WA5VHU
New member
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