BRP Saddle Bags

[Pocketrace]

Thank you for your resplies,

But I have a few reasons to this overthere...
Also my dealer told me I could use their garages so I' ll be inside in a controlled environment ..

This week I will 1st take the whole rear apart to know what I'm getting into, then I'll see...

If anybody else has a list of tools needed, feel free to respond....:yikes:

Eric R
Laval, Qc, Canada

 

[Firefly]

I would say this install will take a good 4 hours for a first-timer. Instructions are poor and you will curse. You would really want to be near a computer to look at the various install pics.

I can't remember all the sizes off hand-- but you'll need multiple open-end and socket wrenches of the same size (two 13 mm and two 10 mm I think).

An extra set of hands is handy too.

I'd pick them up in a car and do it at home.... or have the dealer just ship them to you--- probably cost less than the gas will for 180 miles round trip.

 

[Roy's Bassets]

Givi Bags

I had the same set that you show, the problem with them is you will not be able to take the side panels off unless you remove the blinker light relocaters. I sold mine and replaced them with the PLX999. Still has a place to mount the blinkers if you want, but you can still take the side panels off with out removing the hole set up. I also used the magic mans leds and removed the stock blinkers, a much better set up. Plus your dealer will charge you an extra 1.5 hrs if he has two get in there. I know.:lecturef_smilie:

 

[Firefly]

I had the same set that you show, the problem with them is you will not be able to take the side panels off unless you remove the blinker light relocaters. I sold mine and replaced them with the PLX999. Still has a place to mount the blinkers if you want, but you can still take the side panels off with out removing the hole set up. I also used the magic mans leds and removed the stock blinkers, a much better set up. Plus your dealer will charge you an extra 1.5 hrs if he has two get in there. I know.:lecturef_smilie:

It's pretty rare that you need to remove those panels... and it's not that hard--- just takes an extra 10-15 minutes.

The thing I love about the BRP setup is the quick-release racks---

 

[Pocketrace]

Ok Ok..

I call it quits.. I will arranged to take them home by car... You win..:gaah:

LOL

I sold mine and replaced them with the PLX999. Still has a place to mount the blinkers if you want, but you can still take the side panels off with out removing the hole set up. I also used the magic mans leds and removed the stock blinkers, a much better set up. :lecturef_smilie:

What are the PLX999 and what are Magic Mans Leds ? Any pictures ?

Thank you

Eric R

 

[bjt]

What are the PLX999...

Industries 7 Inc. Givi rack system for the Spyder.

http://www.industries7.com/pages/Spy360.jsp

 

[Pocketrace]

Thank you for the link...

I started installing the racks today.. Wow like you all said.. The instructions are BAD !!! I had them in French and English, I'm fully bilingual and DARN I couln't follow any of the two properly..:helpsmilie:

Luckily I didn't start that away from home.. Once again thank you for the warning...

Now I made a Boo-Boo... It's probably something that was already wrong with the right rear peg but once I started tightening it I felt the threads giving away... Darn !! Now I don't feel like taking the whole rear peg assembly off and re-tapping it...:helpsmilie:

But I guess I have no other choice... Anybody has another idea ?
I feel like filling it with epoxy but if I ever need to take the peg off or the whole rack I will be in trouble...:helpsmilie:

I need help... I really didn't tightened it too hard.. The threads just gave away.. :helpsmilie:

Please help !!! :gaah: Any idea.. ??

Eric R

 

[NancysToy]

Now I made a Boo-Boo... It's probably something that was already wrong with the right rear peg but once I started tightening it I felt the threads giving away... Darn !! Now I don't feel like taking the whole rear peg assembly off and re-tapping it...:helpsmilie:

But I guess I have no other choice... Anybody has another idea ?
I feel like filling it with epoxy but if I ever need to take the peg off or the whole rack I will be in trouble...:helpsmilie:

I need help... I really didn't tightened it too hard.. The threads just gave away.. :helpsmilie:
Please help !!! :gaah: Any idea.. ??

If the threads failed on the bolt, it can simply be replaced. If they failed in the frame or bracket, there would be two choices. Easiest, if there is room, would be to use a longer bolt and back it with a nut, preferably a locknut. The other choice would be to drill the hole larger, tap it, and use the next size bolt. From the pictures, this is not a place a thread insert would work.

 

[Pocketrace]

If the threads failed on the bolt, it can simply be replaced. If they failed in the frame or bracket, there would be two choices. Easiest, if there is room, would be to use a longer bolt and back it with a nut, preferably a locknut. The other choice would be to drill the hole larger, tap it, and use the next size bolt. From the pictures, this is not a place a thread insert would work.

I wish it was the threads of the bolt... That would of been a no brainer.. :gaah:

But it's the threads from the pegs that are gone...:yikes:

Does anybody know if the pegs are in aluminum or magnesium ? I might have a friend weld the hole and retap it. Lots of work ahead...:helpsmilie:

Eric R

 

[NancysToy]

I wish it was the threads of the bolt... That would of been a no brainer.. :gaah:

But it's the threads from the pegs that are gone...:yikes:

Does anybody know if the pegs are in aluminum or magnesium ? I might have a friend weld the hole and retap it. Lots of work ahead...:helpsmilie:

Eric R

I would expect aluminum or pot metal, magnesium is too expensive and corrodes readily. If you can get it off, or get at it good enough, you could drill and insert a Heli-Coil.

 

[bjt]

I would expect aluminum or pot metal, magnesium is too expensive and corrodes readily. If you can get it off, or get at it good enough, you could drill and insert a Heli-Coil.

I'd second the Heli-coil solution. They work good. We put them in all four threaded holes of the windshield mount.

 

[Pocketrace]

I went to a friend of mine who rebuilts engine and he said he was going install an heli-coil.. But then he didn't have the right size in stock, so he tapped the hole to a bigger size thread, end of that story...

I just can't believe how bad are the instructions from BRP... Anyway I'm all happy, my wife and I will be able to use the Spyder tonight.. Woohoo after 3 long days...

Thank you all for your responses...

Eric R

:yes:

 

[ArmyJoe]

For future reference, don't remove the front bolts on the rear passenger peg.

Took me about 3 hours. Thanks for the pics.

 

[groundeffect]

Wanted to bump this thread and pass along a thanks to firefly for posting photos and tips of this installation.

One of the locking receptacles on my setup (the one inside the left signal light re-location bracket) failed and the metal easily bent-in in that area. This left the bag on that side useless, as it would not hold or mount in place. A LONG story short, since this part (708 300 256 - is not resalable) is not available through BRP, or anywhere for that matter, I had that part built-up with metal by a local welding shop. They also commented on the metal in that area and said it failed because it was thin. The weld job seemed to have worked (250km on the bags now, with load, over the occasional bumpy road). So far so good. :thumbup:


So, firefly, thanks for the helpful tips on the BRP R35 Ridged Saddle bag installation!!



Expect for that failed mounting point, I an enjoying the bags very much and how have much more capacity for my daily tasks and resource runs. The look of the bags is fantastic, I think, and does nothing but add to the look of the Spyder, rather then take anything away.

More importantly for me the carry a good bit of gear. A great feature I enjoy about is they are VERY QUICK to disconnect, as mentioned in other posts. 20 seconds and both bags are off. 2 minutes are both bags and racks are off, providing that sleek stock look of the Spyder.

Cheers!:thumbup:

 

[Baytown]

Thanks Firefly

Thanks Firefly, I'm wading through the pathetic fitting instructions and poor quality control (can’t remove left indicator due to lock nut spinning the shaft).
As highlighted, part 12 and 13 (front mounting brackets) I had no idea how they went on, or where. I just went back outside and got it sorted after almost another hour! I'm concerned about the inner bolt hole at the left foort rest bracket, as it feels like it's stripping as per the previous fellas post. I'll look back into it tomorrow. I really appreciate the effort you took to post this thread mate.
Best wishes from Australia.
Ken

 

[Baytown]

One other issue with the fitting of the kit

If you have the BRP Sport Rack already installed, then the cable which releases the top plate passes through a frame bracket on the left rear of the machine.
The bracket for the Left Rear Support (part #P8) can't be bolted up properly due to the cable running through the mounting hole. You will only be able to use the outside bolt, instead of two mounting bolts. I'm not pulling the whole assembly apart again to re rout the cable, that's for sure!

Also for any Aussies, Kiwis etc, the over sized indicators we have are contacting the top of my bags while it's all trial fitted, so I reckon it would be the same for all AU spec machines. It doesn't seem to be an adjustment issue with the frame mounting points etc.

Ken

 

[Littlebadwolf]

Just curious..how much time does BRP allocate for dealer labor to install thier bags?

 

[musicarcade]

Dealer installed mine about a year ago and if I remember correctly it was between 3-4 hours. I think he was originally going to charge me four but took it down to 3.5.

 

[challman]

spyder saddlebag install.

I am getting ready to install the sportrack. I am just trying to make sure I know what I am doing. I Bought my bike with the r-35 bags on it.
I know the rack installation calls for taking the plastic cover off the back end.

Problem is the turn signal relocation thing goes Through the cover. How do I take it off so I can get the cover off?

after looking at your pictures closely I think I have the answer... So I am just checking.

It looks like after I remove the fender (bottom cover) I will find that there are 2 bolts per relocater which must be removed, then unplug the connector and slide out...

Right?


Also anyone know of a good doc on the installation of the sport rack?

Anyone know of a good top case which will mount to the sport rack easily and has a backrest?

 

[Roger]

I am getting ready to install the sportrack. I am just trying to make sure I know what I am doing. I Bought my bike with the r-35 bags on it.
I know the rack installation calls for taking the plastic cover off the back end.

Problem is the turn signal relocation thing goes Through the cover. How do I take it off so I can get the cover off?

after looking at your pictures closely I think I have the answer... So I am just checking.

It looks like after I remove the fender (bottom cover) I will find that there are 2 bolts per relocater which must be removed, then unplug the connector and slide out...

Right?


Also anyone know of a good doc on the installation of the sport rack?

Anyone know of a good top case which will mount to the sport rack easily and has a backrest?

Yes you are correct about the 2 bolts as far as a document for the install of the sportrack did you try a search? Fyi Thats why i switched to the givi racks so i don't have to mess with those 2 bolts everytime i need to work behind there.