BRP called me back today about my heat issues.

[cuznjohn]

riding gear

The bikes that are running hot (and presumable lean...) do need some electronic relief; either a BRP re-flash, or an afternmarket fuel controller).
I certainly DO NOT mean to insult anybody with my questioning of a persons' riding gear; it's a valid qiesiton that unfortunately should be asked as part of trying to figure out what's going on...
Char,
I know you, Mark, your riding experience... and I've kept a careful watch for your reports.
You would be the LAST person on the Planet, that I would accuse of making a mountain out of a molehill... pps:
The thing is; I don't know a thing about our latest person who has stepped up tot eh mike to complain...
So I assume nothing; I look at all avenues and all possibilities...

i ware jeans and work boots, my but has really only got hot after the recall for some reason, i don't remember feeling it b4 on the seat even with the high temp readings i was getting but now i do. i ware jeans because of my size, i tried leather once and two farmers with milking stools and pails were following me and one guy wearing a boa around his neck

 

[flaggerphil]

Plain RTs only have the digital LCD gauges. RTS & RTL have 2 analog gauges in the outer holes that a lot of people unplug ( which reverts them back to LCD digital) because they are so bouncy and inaccurate. They are pretty useless. but look good:thumbup:

Actually, my analog fuel and temp gauges work pretty darn well. Had my original fuel gauge replaced and the bouncing went away.

 

[flaggerphil]

Not to derail the thread, but the people who used to complain bitterly about the excess heat in 2010 to 2012 RTs (which, fortunately, my RT never had) seem to have quieted down since the 2013s came out.

Or so it seems...

:dontknow:

 

[Magdave]

Not to derail the thread, but the people who used to complain bitterly about the excess heat in 2010 to 2012 RTs (which, fortunately, my RT never had) seem to have quieted down since the 2013s came out.

Or so it seems...

:dontknow:

That is because it was normal as BRP has told them. Your going to get heat from the radiator period. They also had doable after market solutions that the 13 owners do not have and none of them caught on fire or had melted parts because of the heat. 2012 can count themselves lucky and now they know it compared to the 2013's

 

[rc51ny]

I'm not sure this means anything---but---on my 2012 RT--I removed both the large plastic panels under the engine. One (left side) to assist in oil changes, and the other (right side) I just left off when I install the NBV highway pegs. While I never really had a huge heat issue with the machine, removing those plastic panels made a HUGE difference. Now when i ride, the temp gauge never goes past the quarter mark. I don't know if the 2013's have those panels, but in my opinion they are useless--try removing them and see what happens.

 

[CyncySpyder]

I think this may be a case of Unintended Consequences as we've experienced ourselves

my but has really only got hot after the recall for some reason, i don't remember feeling it b4 on the seat even with the high temp readings i was getting but now i do

I'm NOT saying this IS the case or not, just relaying my own personal experience that would seem related, in an effort to help others to understand what may be going on here.

Back in the summer, Teddy & I were on a ryde & got down to empty of the fuel gauge & just barely made it to the fuel station. It was about 87F degrees out & when I went to open the (New/Updated) fuel cap on Teds Red Sled (2011 SpyderFest Eddition RT-S) it wouldn't open, it would just spin & click in either direction. After 10 minutes of struggling, I was about to give up & it suddenly grabbed and allowed me to remove it.

At the time, I was thinking about all the threads about heat problems and boiling gas and figured that must have been our issue. Later I was enlightened that the Spyders Fuel System is vented, so it couldn't have really been a pressure issue like I originally thought, more along the lines of a sticking fuel-cap than anything most probably.

Anyways, to the subject at hand, I figured I'd be pro-active and take a page from BRPs Band-Aid drawer and ordered some of the Heat-Reflective material like they are using to protect the melting parts on some of the 2013s. I got it & promptly installed it all around the fuel tank, in the hopes of stopping the tank & fuel from absorbing so much heat.

Mind you now, I've never really had issues or complaints about 'Boiling Gas' or 'Extreme Fumes' after a ryde, but this was more a proactive approach that I figured couldn't hurt, cause at the time, I was thinking with my fuel being so low, whatever was in their was surely boiling, and that was causing my issue of not being able to release the fuel cap, which I now know was an incorrect assumption :lecturef_smilie:

I'm Happy to report, my project worked just as planned, and I now know that my fuel tank and subsequent fuel are not absorbing nearly as much heat as before. How do I know this? Cause now, like you, we also have a heated seat :shocked: And it makes total sense. If the heat can no longer be absorbed by the tank and fuel, well then its got to go somewhere else and we all know that heat rises and the only other place to go is to the seat pps:

Unintended Consequence at its best, and you know what, right now, since we're getting into the winter ryding season for us, I'm Loving it :clap:Luckily for us, when it warms up and a heated seat isn't so desired, we've got that covered as well, with having our home-made forced air system, with the flip of a button, within one minute, we're back to ambient outside temps

If I were a bet'n man, I'd say this is what your experiencing as well

 

[RBS66]

QUOTE CUZNJOHN. my but has really only got hot after the recall for some reason, i don't remember feeling it b4 on the seat even with the high temp readings i was getting but now i do.

I had my recall done at my 600 mile service. After that is when I noticed the heat at the glovebox area also. I thought it was just me cause I had only rode 600 miles at that point and didn't notice it before that. I also said to my wife the other day that is when I noticed the heat. My bike is not real hot at my feet. Its the top of the bike after a short ride the backbone of the bike under the seat is so hot you can't touch it. On a little longer ride you can hear the gas boiling when you park it.

 

[3 Wheel Addict]

In a nutshell yes. I don't seem to have the hot engine temps that some have but the boiling fuel and extremely hot gas tank and cap. As far as the engine goes I think it runs great and does not get any hotter than any other bike I have owned in the past. I have no issues with heat blowing out the right side, I know there is a radiator there and it's sole job is to expel heat. My concerns are the extremely hot gas tank and cap, the thigh roasting heat coming out of the cracks around the front of the seat and the plastic panels getting to well over 110 degrees. Not to mention everything being cooked by the heat. When I first started complaining about the heat even some of the people I ride with thought I was nuts till we stopped for fuel one day and I had a friend remove my fuel cap. He thought that was just nuts that the company would allow that to happen, his wife bought me this tool to help with fill ups as a joke and now it's the current riding joke.

 

[NancysToy]

Heat from the radiator discharge is normal, 150 degree gas caps are not, in my opinion. It is fascinating that there could be a policy that allows producing a product with serious deficiencies, which is not up to the standards of the previous products or the industry, then trying to pawn it off as "normal". On the other hand, when approaching BRP with this problem owners need to be very specific about the heat source and perception. Saying "My right foot gets hot" is not going to go too far, Showing a photo of a thermometer reading 160 at the gas cap and complaining (possibly to the NHTSA) about boiling fuel would be another story. That type of problem should be addressed. It is not "normal".....no matter how "common" it is for the 2013's

 

[Bob Denman]

:agree: Thank you... :clap:

 

[OWISE1]

NHTSA

Heat from the radiator discharge is normal, 150 degree gas caps are not, in my opinion. It is fascinating that there could be a policy that allows producing a product with serious deficiencies, which is not up to the standards of the previous products or the industry, then trying to pawn it off as "normal". On the other hand, when approaching BRP with this problem owners need to be very specific about the heat source and perception. Saying "My right foot gets hot" is not going to go too far, Showing a photo of a thermometer reading 160 at the gas cap and complaining (possibly to the NHTSA) about boiling fuel would be another story. That type of problem should be addressed. It is not "normal".....no matter how "common" it is for the 2013's

I did file a NHTSA complaint about all of the above. So far NO RESPONSE...:gaah:

 

[SpyderAnn01]

I did file a NHTSA complaint about all of the above. So far NO RESPONSE...:gaah:

Are you looking for a response from NHTSA? I never got a reply on my complaint.

 

[Sny]

I received a message from ____ at BRP saying he's working on a fix for the heat issues on 2013's and they're looking for people to test it. I didn't fit their needs (I live too far north/cold) so I gave him some recommendations from SpyderLovers.

I trust this individual and I believe they are working on it. I'm not sure when or how or exactly what BRP is going to do for the 2013 owners, but I do know it won't be "nothing".

It's enough for me to build some more patience. Hopefully by spring we'll talk about it like we do the DPS problems of the "original Spyder"

 

[Bob Denman]

It's good to hear something a bit more tangible! :2thumbs: :clap: :thumbup:

 

[bscrive]

I think CyncySpyder has nailed it. Now that you don't have the gas tank to absorb the heat, it is coming out the cracks where the heat can escape. I think he is also right on about hooking up a forced air system. I was looking at a couple of fans that could be hooked up and force the air down onto the ground. You would remove the bottom pans and find a spot where the fans could go. One on each side would be more than sufficient. I don't have access to a RT or ST but I am sure someone out there could run with this. Here is the type of fan I am talking about.

 

[Bob Denman]

Just how big is that fan? :dontknow:

 

[flamingobabe]

I received a message from ____ at BRP saying he's working on a fix for the heat issues on 2013's and they're looking for people to test it. I didn't fit their needs (I live too far north/cold) so I gave him some recommendations from SpyderLovers.

I trust this individual and I believe they are working on it. I'm not sure when or how or exactly what BRP is going to do for the 2013 owners, but I do know it won't be "nothing".

It's enough for me to build some more patience. Hopefully by spring we'll talk about it like we do the DPS problems of the "original Spyder"

I hope you gave them my name.....I can't get a hold of my case worker....they are busy

 

[jerpinoy]

Heat issue differ from different people. How hot is too hot? Is it too hot that will cook your fertile eggs and not able to multiply?nojoke

BRP are right that two jugs between our legs will get hot is normal.:roflblack::roflblack:

Everybody have different tolerance how much heat is comfortably normal.

 

[Bob Denman]

A couple of folks (CuznJohn is one of them...) mentioned that he noticed a change in the amount of heat after the bike was serviced... (Perhaps even hoooked up to BUDS...)
If somebody notices a difference in the amount of heat that they're getting from the bike; something has to have changed... :gaah:

 

[3 Wheel Addict]

I think CyncySpyder has nailed it. Now that you don't have the gas tank to absorb the heat, it is coming out the cracks where the heat can escape. I think he is also right on about hooking up a forced air system. I was looking at a couple of fans that could be hooked up and force the air down onto the ground. You would remove the bottom pans and find a spot where the fans could go. One on each side would be more than sufficient. I don't have access to a RT or ST but I am sure someone out there could run with this. Here is the type of fan I am talking about.

View attachment 78694

That looks like the perfect size to add behind the oil cooler to help with heat, what is that fan from??