Broken sway bar link

[JerryB]

Hi Ron,

Re: Customer service (and just plain good support for Spyder riders) is very important to me and I know to all of you.

I have dealt with many, many suppliers for my business over the years. Based upon my personel experiences with you, I can highly second this statement.

Jerry Baumchen

 

[pjweimer]

On the road again

Tip showed up in record time with his OEM links, ramps and tools. AWESOME!!! He even dove under the bike when I had trouble getting the bolt through the top connection.

Seems I have a few other issues. The sway bar is not centered. Called Ron and he asked about the position of the collars. What collars? No collars. Are there dimples? No dimples. Now Ron was really stumped. How the heck did this bar did sent out without link, and now, without collars. No problem. The package that will await my arrival in Maggie Valley on Saturday will have links, collars and fresh bolts to boot! Ron is the man!

All seems good for the run south on Skyline Drive tomorrow.

 

[pjweimer]

Tip showed up in record time with his OEM links, ramps and tools. AWESOME!!! He even dove under the bike when I had trouble getting the bolt through the top connection.

Seems I have a few other issues. The sway bar is not centered. Called Ron and he asked about the position of the collars. What collars? No collars. Are there dimples? No dimples. Now Ron was really stumped. How the heck did this bar did sent out without link, and now, without collars. No problem. The package that will await my arrival in Maggie Valley on Saturday will have links, collars and fresh bolts to boot! Ron is the man!

All seems good for the run south on Skyline Drive tomorrow.

Here's Tip helping.


Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk

 

[SteveLaoyster]

This web site is AWESOME!!!!!!!!:clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap:hyea:hyea:hyea:hyea:hyea:hyea:hyea:hyea:hyea:

 

[MisterP]

They don't let me out of the asylum much anymore so I am indeed at home. I had the same question that many of you had. How did this bar kit go out without the billet aluminum links? Very early on I did sell this bar kit without the links as preliminary testing did not produce any failures. But it was not long before it was discovered that the OEM links would not handle the additional stress and I sent emails out letting the non-linked up customers know that the OEM links needed to be changed out.

As with any such process, there may have been some that fell through the cracks. So, if by some incredible string of events anyone is running a 2013- current RT BajaRon sway bar with OEM links, please get in touch with me ASAP and we will get it worked out.

I had family over last night so I did not get to this issue until this morning so thank you all very much for filling in for me. Customer service (and just plain good support for Spyder riders) is very important to me and I know to all of you. It's a great team to be a part of!

Special thanks to Lamont! :thumbup:

FYI, Central FL Powersports installed your bar on my 2014 sometime in 2015. I didn't know about the metal links until I read about them on the forum. I bought a set and put them on myself. So, I'm not sure everyone got the word.

 

[biker01red]

Ordered from Lamonster

I called Lamonster yesterday to order the Bajaron Sway Bar and Links...spoke with Jacob, great service, within an hour I had shipping confirmation, should be here in two days. I have an appointment with my Dealer next Wednesday for the install......looking forward to riding improvement after reading many comments on this forum. Thanks again Lamonster for the great service !!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Buckeye Bleau]

This thread is an amazing example of what can be done here.:clap:

i am so incredibly warmed by the outreach of constructive assistance for a fellow in need, wow.

and even more impressive is the total lack of the normal naysayers, whiners and blame BRP folks. I am absolutely impressed by this thread and the support offered. WOW! :bowdown:

Joe

 

[bmwlarry]

Ordered mine yesterday. I also bought the sway bar before the metal links were included.

 

[pjweimer]

Got the billet limks, but another problem

Got to Maggie Valley yesterday and Bajaron had the new billet links waiting for me at checkin! AWESOME!

But another problem cropped up just 2 miles from our motel. VSS FAULT LIMP HOME accompanied by an audio alert. The Check Engine idiot light was flashing and the VSS light was on solid. The lower center block on the cluster display was alternating the check engine icon with the trip odometer reading. Bike continued to run at speed, about 45 mph at that point. Pulled into the motel parking lot and checked for codes before shutting it down. P0000. Now according to SpyderCodes app that code does not indicate any specific malfunction but acknowledges a reset. Shut the ignition off, pulled the key, walked away, waited a time, refired the bike. No indication that anything happened. Checked for codes... clear. OK.

Checked in, unloaded the trailer, went out to cruise for a restaurant. Got less than a half mile up the road and BANG!, error screen back just as before. Idiot lights and lower panel flash also as before. Returned to motel and ordered in.

This morning no codes. Noted in SpyderCodes was two potential causes. One involved slight pressure on the brake pedal. Doubted I was doing that as I made that mistake on my 2012 RTL and have been cautious ever since. The other involved possible problem with the connection under the seat that senses the presence of a passenger. I decided to go to the nearest auto parts store to grab a couple of tools to make replacing the sway bar links easier. First I raised the seat and reset the plug for the pillion seat sensor. After 4 or 5 miles I began to think that was the problem solved even though it has been weeks since I had the seat off the bike (part of adding TricLED LEDs project). And then it happened again. Same sequence. When I got back into Maggie Valley I decided to check for codes again. Nothing.

So I got on to the forum and searched VSS fault. One thing I noted was the caution to check battery terminal tightness as multiple crazy codes could be generated with loose terminals. So I grabbed a 10 mm wrench opened up ehe frunk. Much to my surprise I was able to turn the positive terminal's screw nearly a quarter turn to being tight. The negative terminal screw was tight. Off for another test run. This time we got nearly 15 miles into a run when back came the evil witch! Returned to close to the motel and pulled over to check for codes. This time 4 showed up.

C0040, C00C6, P0504 and P061E. Looked these up on SpyderCodes and all had something to do with brake lights, brake switch. Shut off ignition and pulled the right fuse box cover off. F1 and F2 were both blown! No daytime lights and no brake lights. Replaced both fuses, everything working. Decided to go back to the auto parts store to get a supply of 10 amp and 15 amp fuses. Checked before leaving the store the daytime lights were gone again, brakes was still working.

Now what have I learned (or think I have learned). I think that perhaps one of the snap on connectors that was supplied with the TricLED saddlebag LED run, brake and turn strips may be the problem Somehow shorting out. Not that I think the product is at fault, but that my installation may have been the problem. So tomorrow I guess I will need to start pulling panels off to uncover those connections to verify all is well.

We have traveled over 1,000 miles since Tuesday and perhaps something as jiggled loose and is shorting circuits out. Two circuits are involved, brakes and running lights. I would work on this this afternoon but we stopped at a J Arthur's and I had to have their prime rib. AS we left we checked the status of the lights again... now the brake lights are also out again. So the thought of doing any bending over until tomorrow is out of the question.

More later as I discover it.

 

[bcer960]

Please keep us updated although sorry to hear you are having all these issues, I am interested in how they get fixed and what the problem was

 

[pjweimer]

Here is the latest on out electrical problem(s)

I copied my last post to Reggy at TricLED and he promptly responded. The recommendation was to disconnect the strips tied into brake/run circuits. I did this this morning. I disconnected the 3rd and 4th brake light kit, the top brake light kit (the one installed on the trunk lid). And disconnected the saddlebag run/stop/turn strips. We took the bike out for a test run and tried to find somewhere to get the front of the bike up so I could install the billet sway bar links. No luck finding a location to do that job but the run and brakes lights remained functional, no Limp Home Mode alerts. Looked like the electrical problem was fixed.

So we decided to do a day trip that I had loaded into the GPS for this trip. Well we got 130 miles into the trip, were just completing the loop back into Maggie Valley, just 3 miles from our motel and BANG!!!, the devil jumped up again.

Same symptoms! Codes at this point showed P0504 and P061E. Looked them up on SpyderCodes and, wait a minute these were the same codes I got before. Now all the TricLED strips that I had installed on the rear of the bike are disconnected. There are two kits on the front, 2 inch spotlights and the daytime running lights/turn signals on the front suspension A frames. Since neither of these are tied into the brake circuit its hard to imagine faults here. Oh, and maybe I should mention that when all this crops up the turn signals work just fine. But with no rear running lights and no brake lights I am a little concerned riding the remaining routes we had planned here in the area.

I am at a loss, I am disgusted with myself not being able to figure this out. Tomorrow morning I will call Reggy and explore other options to try. But then again the problem may not be caused by the TricLED kits at all. I wish I was home where I could put the bike up on my lift so I could get a good look and everything underneath.

Anyone with any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[Richardv]

Well......

I copied my last post to Reggy at TricLED and he promptly responded. The recommendation was to disconnect the strips tied into brake/run circuits. I did this this morning. I disconnected the 3rd and 4th brake light kit, the top brake light kit (the one installed on the trunk lid). And disconnected the saddlebag run/stop/turn strips. We took the bike out for a test run and tried to find somewhere to get the front of the bike up so I could install the billet sway bar links. No luck finding a location to do that job but the run and brakes lights remained functional, no Limp Home Mode alerts. Looked like the electrical problem was fixed.

So we decided to do a day trip that I had loaded into the GPS for this trip. Well we got 130 miles into the trip, were just completing the loop back into Maggie Valley, just 3 miles from our motel and BANG!!!, the devil jumped up again.

Same symptoms! Codes at this point showed P0504 and P061E. Looked them up on SpyderCodes and, wait a minute these were the same codes I got before. Now all the TricLED strips that I had installed on the rear of the bike are disconnected. There are two kits on the front, 2 inch spotlights and the daytime running lights/turn signals on the front suspension A frames. Since neither of these are tied into the brake circuit its hard to imagine faults here. Oh, and maybe I should mention that when all this crops up the turn signals work just fine. But with no rear running lights and no brake lights I am a little concerned riding the remaining routes we had planned here in the area.

I am at a loss, I am disgusted with myself not being able to figure this out. Tomorrow morning I will call Reggy and explore other options to try. But then again the problem may not be caused by the TricLED kits at all. I wish I was home where I could put the bike up on my lift so I could get a good look and everything underneath.

Anyone with any suggestions would be appreciated.

I would unplug EVERYTHING I added. Even if I am sure that it is not that. Also, I would check any ground I would have touched while adding my stuff..... grounds can make really simple things look complex.......

 

[trikermutha]

maybe this link will help

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?51955-Question-on-Codes-P061E-and-P0504

Check your brake switch??

http://spydertechnician.blogspot.co...5/these-are-few-of-most-common-questions.html

 

[pjweimer]

Brake switch, I agree, this needs checked

maybe this link will help

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?51955-Question-on-Codes-P061E-and-P0504

Check your brake switch??

http://spydertechnician.blogspot.co...5/these-are-few-of-most-common-questions.html

If I can get the right front wheel up on a high curb so I can get under there to visual inspect the switch may show me something. A little squirt of lub may keep things working until I get back home.

Thanks for the suggestion!

 

[trikermutha]

Any updates on your dilemma?

 

[pjweimer]

Latest status on electrical issue

Yesterday morning I removed the top rear body panel and removed enough screws to let the lower rear body panel hinge down. This gave me access to the screws securing the taillights, I removed them. I removed the final set of TricLED pigtails (they were in circuit but nothing was attached to them). I inspected the OEM connectors and what I could see of the wires in these connectors. Nothing visual to give evidence of a short. I plugged the taillights back into the OEM connectors so now all the OEM wiring and connectors were returned to their original state. Nothing from TricLED is in circuit. I reassembled everything and we went out for a test run.

About 30 miles out we got an alert. This time a bit different. Instead of Limp Home Mode being displayed, Check Engine was displayed and the check engine icon was lit solid (no flashing), no VSS icon lit up. Both fuses, F1 and F2 were blown. Continued our day trip. Once back to the motel I replaced the fuses. Started the bike, check engine light still on. Drove bike in a circle around the parking lot, check engine lit out.

This morning we were preparing for an extended day trip, 240 plus miles. All was well when we left. Stopped to top off gas after about 80 miles, no taillights, no brakes, no alerts. Replaced fuses, back to normal. Continued trip. Stopped at about 130 miles, again no lights. Replaced fuses. About 220 miles and close to being back to motel, car in front of us braked hard and swung a left turn required me to hit the brakes hard. Alert went off., Check Engine. Returned to motel. Replaced fuses. lights again functional. Drove bike around parking lot, check engine light canceled.

Gentlemen the only conclusion that I can reach is that the Spdyer gremlins live in Maggie Valley, NC!!

Tomorrow we plan to start back home. I may pull the body panels from the right side to expose the brake master cylinder and the brake light switch. I want to verify that there is nothing visually wrong with this switch. Since I have no meter with me I cannot test the switch. Will do that when I return home.

Will drive about half the distance, Prestonburg, KY, And the remainder Friday. Once home where I have access to my meters and lift maybe I can find this short and bury the Maggie Valley gremlin in my back yard!

 

[trikermutha]

your blowing fuses..There is a short in there someplace causing the fuses to blow.

 

[pjweimer]

Agree

your blowing fuses..There is a short in there someplace causing the fuses to blow.

Totally agree. Proverbial needle in the haystack!

Once I get back home I will put a charger on the battery to keep the circuits active without killing the battery. Then, using the wiring schematic and with a trouble light or a meter, I will start tracking both the running lights circuit and the brake lights circuit until I find the short. May require opening uup some harnesses, but I will be on a mission to find and kill this gremlin.

Wish me luck or tell me a better way to nail this down.

 

[trikermutha]

Totally agree. Proverbial needle in the haystack!

Once I get back home I will put a charger on the battery to keep the circuits active without killing the battery. Then, using the wiring schematic and with a trouble light or a meter, I will start tracking both the running lights circuit and the brake lights circuit until I find the short. May require opening uup some harnesses, but I will be on a mission to find and kill this gremlin.

Wish me luck or tell me a better way to nail this down.

Only the lighting circuits are blowing?

Do you have a wire strand sticking out by the plugs by chance?

All extra lighting etc is disconnected now?

 

[pjweimer]

Only taillights and brake lights

Only the lighting circuits are blowing?

Do you have a wire strand sticking out by the plugs by chance?

All extra lighting etc is disconnected now?

Fuses F1 and F2 in the right fuse box of the 2014 RTLs. No wire strands seen. All extra lighting disconnected.