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Bright Headlights, Neg. Battery Terminal

mdale46

New member
Yes, I'm a newbie! Less than 150 miles on our 2012 RT. I have had some frustrating issues so far and the dealer is than enthusiastic with there help.


Question?

#1 Right headlight (bright shutter) not working. I am assuming that there is a bright, both left and right. Any quick fix that you experianced Spyder Riders can share? I have checked connection on back of light assembly.

#2 Bought a Battery Tender. Can not remove the neg. terminal to install lead for tender. Unless there is a trick to it, I would think it is stripped. Brand new, can't be! It will tighten back up, but will not loosen but a couple of turns. Seems to spin from that point. Any help would be grealty appriciated.

Thanks,
Frustrated Spyder Owner
 
Can't help with question #1 but for question #2 i hope your not talking about the negative under the seat :lecturef_smilie:
 
1. Thats a warranty item. Get your dealer to fix it. (likely a loose wire.)
2. Do not loosen the negative jumper terminal under the seat If it will tighten back up count yourself lucky.
 
Is there a known issue with the Neg. Terminal? Also where then, do you attach the terminal for the tender?
 
Attach your pigtail directly to the battery.

Once it is loose it is extremely difficult to get a wrench the nut on the backside to stop it spinning.
 
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There is a locking nut on the bottom side of that negative terminal you loosened. It's difficult to get a wrench on it to tighten it up. Be careful around that fuse block. I have a nice arc-notch in my 10mm wrench now when I arced it from the positive side of the fuse block to that negative pole. You might have to carefully move the fuse block out of the way to get access to that nut. When I was in there, I decided to cut threads in that hole and get a bolt the right size to screw in, thereby doing away with the washer. When I got the negative terminal removed, I found the hole was already threaded. This is on an early production 2010 RT (VIN #0031). I then replaced the existing bolt with one that screw directly in. Don't recall the size, but you can buy a few metric bolts of near that size (eyeball it) & not have to make a second trip to Home Depot. If you do it, don't use a thread-lock. It is not conductive. You may also have to enlarge the connector on the end of a ground wire that runs to the fuel tank to fit the larger bolt.

Good luck!
 
1. Thats a warranty item. Get your dealer to fix it. (likely a loose wire.)
2. Do not loosen the negative jumper terminal under the seat If it will tighten back up count yourself lucky.

I want to hook up the pigtail for my Gerbins heated jacket and the battery tender. Questions:
1) I see the emphatic "NO" regarding the negative terminal under the seat. If not there, where is the easiest place to get a good ground?
2) Can I loosen the positive terminal to hook up that side?
Thanks in advance for your help.
 
NOTE: Never, never, never loosen the negative jumper terminal connection or use it to ground an accessory!

Doing so will make your day miserable. This issue has been well publicized on spyderlovers.com. You want to connect the battery-tender "pig-tails" to the actual battery terminal posts; NOT the jumper terminal connections.

The following thread is one you can start with regarding this:http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?33405-Who-s-the-FRIGGIN-IDIOT


It is troublesome to remove the Tupperware to get to the actual battery terminals or other ground connections, but it is essential on the Spyder to do so. (The jumper terminal connections are the ones you can see when you lift your seat up.)


 
Thanks for the info. You guys are great and full of knowledge. I know now that I could have saved myself some frustratation by researching the "Battery Tender" install issue before starting. I will in the future. A new guy mistake! Thanks. I will be removing panels next week. As for the headlight. I was sure it was warranty, but this dealer doesn't give me the "warm fuzzy" about the care they take with the property of others. A dozen some odd panels and/or assemblies to get at the light. The chances of damage seem promising based on my experiance thus far. If it was an easy fix, ie. wire, fuse ,or the like . I would get done myself.

Thanks again guys!
 
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