Brembo rear caliper issue

[sledracer]

Im wondering if you would give me some advice. 2017 F3 Ltd Only 10,000 kms on the bike. Im a paraplegic and thus have added a handbrake.

Installing fully sintered brake pads on the rear. I did the fronts first and that was so easy and typical of the many brakes Ive done in the past.

I could NOT get the rear caliper piston to decompress with a simple pry on the old pads and resorted to the old C clamp but alas no luck. I wondered if it was a different deal because of the park brake so did a lill research and found that the piston needs to be rotated with some pressure to get it to thread down the shaft and open. No prob so back to the shop. Needle nose plyers could rotate it but it wouldn’t compress...hmm Looked into the special tool for the job so I thought I could whipped one up. No prob I have a drill press, welder etc so I make my own for my ratchet. Tried that and still no luck so now Im swearing. More research and since that didn’t get anywhere I opened the bleeder screw to see if that would release fluid to help the piston compress. NO LUCK! I completely pulled the brake line and took the caliper to the work bench. I put the caliper in the vise so I could get more aggressive and still nothing. Thus far fluid is no longer draining from the caliper. At this point I completely tried to disassemble the caliper as Id seen a post on the web detailing this. I tried to pull the piston but it got the the top and it wouldn’t go further. I removed the park brake lever and noticed a small allen head bolt (near bleeder) I expected was a park brake screw shaft retaining bolt, see pic

When I pulled this bolt a ton of fluid drained from the caliper and turning the piston now retracted it as it should have from the beginning.

Long story longer put the caliper back on the bike, installed the pads and bled the fluid the typical pump pump hold etc. Got it bled but it seems theres slightly more travel in the foot brake lever, I only notice this because my hand brake slave cylinder doesn’t have enough throw to operate the foot brake lever as well as it did thus making it unsafe to ride.

Ive read the service manual on the rear bleeding procedure but there no new info there that’s helpful.

Have you ever had a bleeding problem on the Brembo rear caliper like this were its not fully getting rid of all the air in the rear caliper?

Thoughts?

Thanx very much for your time

 

[NorthAlabamaSpyder]

Baja Ron sells a nifty tool to press the piston back in. Works great. See below

Rear Caliper Piston Retraction Tool $14.95
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This handy little tool fits on the end of your 3/8" Drive Ratchet or Extension. When replacing the rear brake pads on you 2013-2019 Can-Am Spyder, you must turn or screw in the rear caliper piston to make room for the new pad set. This little took makes the job much easier. The 2 pins fit perfectly into the corresponding holes on the rear caliper piston so you can turn it.

 

[PW2013STL]

Most likely you have air in the system. You will need to take it to the dealer so they can hook up the BUDS software needed to open the ABS module in order to completely remove the air.

 

[sledracer]

Ive read about needing the BUDS to bleed the ABS...it seems kinda crazy you need to hook it up to BUDS computer to get air out of the system since a mechanical deal. I will do it if need be but wonder if anyone has had success other wise.

NorthAlabamaSpyder I now know about Rons tool, I wish I had know when I earlier ordered a swaybar and oil change kits from him Either way Ive made one now

 

[BajaRon]

Most likely you have air in the system. You will need to take it to the dealer so they can hook up the BUDS software needed to open the ABS module in order to completely remove the air.

This is what I think also. I know many have bled their brakes without issue. I've done mine, though it is not a Brembo system. But I've heard that if you get air into the ABS module, you can't purge it without BUDS. I'm hoping someone who knows for sure can confirm this.