Brembo rear brake

[IGETAROUND]

Just a heads up for those of you who change your own brake pads out. The rear caliper has two holes in it that accept a heavy duty needle nose pliers. Normally you just apply inward pressure as you turn the brake puck clockwise and it goes all the way back in flush with the caliper housing. Have done this three times without a problem; easy peazy. Well this time I couldn't make that puck retract no matter what I did. So I used the parking brake arm to extend the puck out to mid way and sprayed the rubber boot with silicon. Low and behold this allowed me to get the puck fully retracted and back up into place on the rotor. :yes::yes::yes:

So the next time you're struggling with that pesky puck try this trick to lubricate the boot and reduce friction and allow full retraction of the puck.:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Al in Kazoo

PS: it goes without saying that a liberal application of brake fluid cleaner before you hit the road to remove any traces of silicon before it migrates to your brakes is a good idea. Thanks for reminding me Mike.

 

[Chupaca]

Good to know....

funny how just that little bit of risistance can hold up a job... :bowdown:

 

[papanorm]

Thanks for the tip,makes perfect sense, just completed a brake job without issue. I know some folks had problems turning that pesky piston back in. :thumbup:

 

[SPYD3R]

REAR BRAKE

i resently did my F3 with no issues....
however, in the future, should i do it again, tell me:
"if the piston doesn't go IN, do i press the Parking Brake Button to actuate the E-brake so that the piston comes forward then spray it with silly-con....?" is that all that is required....?
Dan P
SPYD3R

 

[IGETAROUND]

i resently did my F3 with no issues....
however, in the future, should i do it again, tell me:
"if the piston doesn't go IN, do i press the Parking Brake Button to actuate the E-brake so that the piston comes forward then spray it with silly-con....?" is that all that is required....?
Dan P
SPYD3R

Dan,

I would use the parking brake lever that attaches to the caliper rather than the switch. An yes, then spray the boot with silly-con; after reassembly liberally spray with brake cleaning fluid to remove said silly-con prior to use so it doesn't migrate to your nice new brake pads and rotor!!!

Al

 

[SPYD3R]

THX

Dan,

I would use the parking brake lever that attaches to the caliper rather than the switch. An yes, then spray the boot with silly-con; after reassembly liberally spray with brake cleaning fluid to remove said silly-con prior to use so it doesn't migrate to your nice new brake pads and rotor!!!

Al

Thanx Al...
good info...
Dan

 

[IGETAROUND]

brembo rear brake

Thanks for the tip,makes perfect sense, just completed a brake job without issue. I know some folks had problems turning that pesky piston back in. :thumbup:

Yep; have done this three times previously without a hitch. Something about mothers and invention!!

 

[IGETAROUND]

from JKMSPYDER

I appreciated your recent post about using the parking brake lever to extend the piston so that you could clean it, thus allowing it to be screwed back in. I had a horrible time trying to screw my rear piston in several months ago. I had to trailer my F3-S to the dealer to get it fixed! But I’m confused by what you mean by the parking brake lever. My F3 uses an electrical switch to activate the parking brake. Can you further explain the lever and maybe enclose a pic? No need to respond by PM if you want to post the answer for all to see. And once you clean the piston, then do you release the brake and proceed to screw it in? Thanks!

let me preface my remarks with an invitation for anyone that see's a flaw in my explanation to feel free to jump in and correct me; don't want to mislead anyone with bad information:

Never having had a spyder with an electric set for the parking brake I rang up Joe Meyer and asked about this. He said that the older spyders (pre-brembo brakes) had a cable and wheel, the newer spyders (like yours), have a lever and cable that attach to the outside of the caliper (the muffler side). Once you have the caliper removed from the rotor and the pads removed push your button to actuate the parking brake. This should extend the brake puck and the boot that covers it. This will allow you to lubricate the boot. Turn the ignition on and release the parking brake, then shut the ignition back off. With needle nose pliers turn clockwise and push in while turning, turn till the puck is flush with the caliper housing. Spray liberally with brake cleaner, reinstall clips, then pads, turn in the retention screw/rod and replace the retaining clip on the retaining screw in the machined slot on the pad side of the caliper. Reattach caliper, torque to ~37 Ft lbs and check your brake pedal for proper travel, pump a few times if needed and go for a ride. That's my story and I'm sticking to it until corrected by others who know more than I.:yikes::thumbup::thumbup:
Al in Kazoo

 

[JKMSPYDER]

THANKS!

Thanks Al! That was just the information I was looking for. I'm sure it will help a lot of others, too, that run into this problem!!:yes::yes:

 

[mavrik]

I have dealt with seals on calipers and hydraulic pistons like that...it is amazing how much force those seals if dry can stop from moving. I would be worried about hyper-extending the caliper piston if not on the bike and having the rotor to stop it...just thoughts

 

[AeroPilot]

Cleanliness is next to Godliness- and helps the process as well

Since the brake pads are wore down (the reason for this exercise to start with) the pistons are out a bit to start with. After getting the bike up and the caliper and pads off, my first step is usually to put a drain pan under the area and have a bristle brush, soapy water and spray cleaner to give the caliper, rubber boot and area a good bath. The spray and drips while horrendous are usually confined to the pan, newspapers and your white tee shirt if you get carried away Then after a rinse or blow dry, there is still enough moisture that allows the pads to be rotated back and ready for the reassembly.

A little Disk Brake Quiet on the back of the pads, and save the lube for the cable or arm mating surfaces if you desire. A final spritz of brake cleaner on the rotor gets any residue off with a clean paper towel, and reassemble as IGEtAROUND proposes.. just my method and even if the pads have some life left, your calipers are cleaner for the next time you check.