Break-in period questions

[TreeHillSpyder]

Hey Everyone!

I have put about 40 miles on the 2009 Spyder RS SE5 since bringing it home two days ago, and I have a few questions:

1. For the break in period, it is smart to keep the RPMs below 4000? I've been shifting at this point for the last few days and haven't had any problems.

2. The first few times I've ridden the Spyder, it's been from 38-45 degrees outside here in Wilmington. Is that going to have any negative effects to the engine? I know it must take a few minutes for the engine to warm up, much like a car's engine.

3. How do I adjust the shocks on the Spyder to allow for a little less "flex" when going over bumps?

4. Any other break in related tips I should know?
:dontknow:

Brian
TreeHillSpyder
Wilmington, NC

 

[bone crusher]

Hey Everyone!

I have put about 40 miles on the 2009 Spyder RS SE5 since bringing it home two days ago, and I have a few questions:

1. For the break in period, it is smart to keep the RPMs below 4000? I've been shifting at this point for the last few days and haven't had any problems.

2. The first few times I've ridden the Spyder, it's been from 38-45 degrees outside here in Wilmington. Is that going to have any negative effects to the engine? I know it must take a few minutes for the engine to warm up, much like a car's engine.

3. How do I adjust the shocks on the Spyder to allow for a little less "flex" when going over bumps?

4. Any other break in related tips I should know?
:dontknow:

Brian
TreeHillSpyder
Wilmington, NC

1. A break-in period is advised although many don't do that. The first time I rode my Spyder, it was about 70 miles on the highway at speeds over 70mph...I never really 'broke' the bike in...never had problems either...as far as keeping the RPMs under 4000, good luck...I wouldn't worry to much about that...just ride conservatively for a while...the Rotax is a great engine...

2. Don't ride your bike until you see one bar on the temp gauge...riding temps don't matter...in fact, in cold weather, you'll get a nice air/fuel mix...the bike will run cooler and I've seen better mileage...that's just me, though...

3. The instruction manual has the info regarding tightening the shocks. I have mine on the fourth position (out of five)...I didn't put the bike up on a lift...I guess I was one of the lucky ones as several people have broken things without so...your tool kit (in the front trunk) has the tool you need to tighten up the shocks a little...

4. Ride and have fun...your bike is under warranty and should perform well. Get the BEST warranty within the 60 day period of buying your bike so that you can get it for less money...a 5 year warranty is a nice piece of mind to have...

 

[Firefly]

Hey Everyone!

I have put about 40 miles on the 2009 Spyder RS SE5 since bringing it home two days ago, and I have a few questions:

1. For the break in period, it is smart to keep the RPMs below 4000? I've been shifting at this point for the last few days and haven't had any problems.

2. The first few times I've ridden the Spyder, it's been from 38-45 degrees outside here in Wilmington. Is that going to have any negative effects to the engine? I know it must take a few minutes for the engine to warm up, much like a car's engine.

3. How do I adjust the shocks on the Spyder to allow for a little less "flex" when going over bumps?

4. Any other break in related tips I should know?
:dontknow:

Brian
TreeHillSpyder
Wilmington, NC

Many have adjusted the shocks and broken the cams--- including dealers.

Best chance against breakage is to jack the Spyder up - spray the shock and cam area with some WD-40 --- let it soak in a bit and then adjust.

As far as the break-in. You'll find varying opinions on it.

I like what this guy has to say on break-in:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

It's totally against what the manual says.

No matter which way you want to break it in.....

The main thing you want to avoid is constant RPMS---- make sure and vary them quite a bit--- run thru all the gears, use engine braking, etc....

And make sure and let it warm up to 1-2 bars before riding. Change the oil at 600 miles. If you're going to only ride a few hundred miles and then let it sit for a month or more--- I would change the oil before letting it sit.

Congrats and enjoy!

 

[NancysToy]

1. For break-in, do not lug the engine, run at full throttle, or run at a constant throttle setting for long periods. The Spyder actually prefers to be above 3,500-4,000 rpm.

2. The air temp isn't that important, but I agree that the gauge should start to rise before riding. Also watch for overheating, and stop and let it cool if the fan runs steadily.

3. Shock adjustment tool is in your toolkit, and the procedure is in the Operator's Guide. It is suggested that you jack up the Spyder, clean the adjusters, and spray them liberally with WD-40 before adjusting. You still chance breaking an adjuster.

4. Consider adding more air to the front tires. The recommended front tire pressures are too low for optimum handling. I run 20 front/30 rear. Most folks like 18-20 front and 26-30 rear. You may not have to adjust the shocks if you do this.

Much of this information is contained in your Operator's guide. I suggest you read it, and become familiar with the break-in and maintenance procedures. It is also recommended that you study the skills section of the manual, and do a little parking lot practice, like they recommend. The Spyder handles and reacts differently than a motorcycle or car.

welcome

 

[altonk]

get the aftermarket sway bar to fix the body roll. the stock shocks bite too. I went with the penske racing shocks and it rides like a completely different animal with the two additions

 

[groundeffect]

Hi there and welcome.



1. The manual (CAN BE FOUND HERE: 2009 Manaul) states the following regarding engine break-in:

------------------------------------------------------------
A break-in period of 1 000 km (600 mi) is required for the vehicle.
During the first 300 km (200 mi), avoid hard braking.

New brakes and tires do not operate at their maximum efficiency until their break-in is completed. Braking, steering and VSS (p.34) performance may be reduced, so use extra caution. Brakes and tires take about 300 km (200mi) of riding with frequent braking and steering to break-in. For riding with infrequent braking and steering, allow extra time to break-in the brakes and tires.


During the first 1 000 km (600 mi): – Avoid full throttle acceleration.
– Avoid prolonged riding.
– If the cooling fan operates continuously during stop and go traffic, pull over and shut off the engine to let it cool off or speed up to let air cool off the engine.
------------------------------------------------------------


So, as per BRP's suggestions in the manual, I am personally doing just that, by the book! I've not hit top speed, I've avoided full throttle acceleration, avoiding prolonged riding (the most I've rode at one time was about 30km without stopping, at normal rpm's, then stopping for a 10min break (to take photos, fill up the tank, or just to hang out and enjoy a landscape from a roadside pull-in ).

I've kept a close eye on the cooling fan and the cluster's temp gauge. Once, in traffic it did touch 5 bars, then the fan kicked in. Still in traffic waiting at a red light it dropped back to 4 bars and the fan turned off . Later while on the highway doing about 110km/hr (68miles/hr), in 5th gear, the bars dropped back to 3 bars.

As for the brake and tire break-in; I've not braked really hard, but have used them of course, when riding, but also on an empty parking lot, practicing the swerves and stopping-on-the-spot exercises.



I've had questions about RPM ranges and cursing speed RPMs. This thread may help you:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17129&highlight=cruise






2. I've ridden ( and others here on the forum have, more then I ), at 15-20F without problems with the engine. I have heard that too much below 15F and the Dynamic Power Steering maybe a little slow to react, but I have not experienced this myself. My cold weather riding limit is 15-20F.





3. As mentioned by others, the manual explains the adjustments to be done on the shocks. They are typically adjusted based on your weight and if you're riding frequently with a passenger, or not. As Scotty has mentioned above, the tool for adjusting the the shocks are in the stock tool kit located in the trunk. I have never adjusted my shocks, as they come pre-set for my weight. Scotty - good idea (as always ) on the WD-40 before adjusting!

Here are the specs for the shocks:
RECOMMENDED REAR SHOCK ADJUSTMENT


FRONT SHOCK SETTINGS:
LOAD_______________________CAMPOSITION
68 kg (150 lb) rider___________1, 2
91 kg (200 lb) rider ___________3
68 kg (150 lb) rider with cargo __3
91 kg (200 lb) rider with cargo __4
Rider with passenger and cargo __5



REAR SHOCK SETTINGS:
LOAD _________________CAM POSITION
68 kg (150 lb) rider ______1, 2
91 kg (200 lb) rider ______3-5
Rider with passenger _____6, 7






4. I will highly recommend reading over the manual a few times and practicing BRP's suggested Spyder riding techniques and drills (see link to manual above).


Hope that helps, Ryde Safe and Have Fun!

 

[2Gunns]

Hey Everyone!

I have put about 40 miles on the 2009 Spyder RS SE5 since bringing it home two days

welcomeWelcome to another Carolina Spyder

 

[LDFIREWORKS]

:2thumbs: welcome :congrats:

 

[Trickie Dick]

I like what this guy has to say on break-in:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

+1 on this. I followed this advice on mine and haven't had any issues. Rode like I stole from day one. hyea:

 

[bone crusher]

I like what this guy has to say on break-in:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

+1 on this. I followed this advice on mine and haven't had any issues. Rode like I stole from day one. hyea:

Agreed...I rode my bike hard from day one...no problems with it at all...didn't really have the option as I had a long ride home on the highway...I actually rode in 4th gear for a while before finally switching over to 5th...didn't worry too much about rpms...was all over the place...

Any knowledgeable mechanic I've ever spoken with has always told me that the 'break-in' period is very over-rated and not backed up with any concrete evidence...I guess they would have to agree with that article...this is their territory...I don't question this!

 

[NancysToy]

Any knowledgeable mechanic I've ever spoken with has always told me that the 'break-in' period is very over-rated and not backed up with any concrete evidence...I guess they would have to agree with that article...this is their territory...I don't question this!

I tend to agree with this. The main thing is to vary the rpm and to not abuse the machine until it is "seasoned". I think part of the "break-in" routine is just to get the vehicle back for a complete inspection, and an oil change to remove the particles that a new engine produces. If the manufacturers treated it like no big deal, people would likely neglect or postpone these very important tasks. JMHO

 

[M2Wild]

I like what this guy has to say on break-in:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

+1 on this. I followed this advice on mine and haven't had any issues. Rode like I stole from day one. hyea:

+2 :agree: .... very rule I live by.

 

[boborgera]

I ride any new bike/truck/car during the so called brake in just like i would
after the so called brake in. Haven't lost an engine yet!

 

[jgwoods]

I generally agree with the above - generally the moto tune method. Fairly hard acceleration to seat the rings followed by decel to let oil creep up and lube the same area, repeat. Once it gets good and hot shut it off.

My "new" Spyder came with 9 hours on it, and about 7 miles. It had been shuttled in and out from the shop at night to the yard by day for months so I had no real chance to contribute to its proper break in. It doesn't seem to have made a difference- I use no oil, have no issues that I can discern- maybe if I took it apart I might see something but I'm not doing that when it runs fine.

Proper break in is good insurance, improper brake in- line mine got- may not be so bad either on a modern, tightly built engine. Bottom line- ride and enjoy, don't overheat it.

 

[Tom in NM]

"Ride it like you stole it" . . . . . . .

The main thing is to vary the rpm and to not abuse the machine until it is "seasoned". I think part of the "break-in" routine is just to get the vehicle back for a complete inspection, and an oil change to remove the particles that a new engine produces. If the manufacturers treated it like no big deal, people would likely neglect or postpone these very important tasks. JMHO

:agree:

"Ride it like you stole it!". . . . just what the hell does that mean? From what I can tell, something different to every rider. It has a little too much bravado in it to be "good" advice in my book.

I consider the Break-In Period to be a shake-down event - for both the Spyder and the rider.

On any new (to you) vehicle ( car, truck, plane, or motorcycle ) that you have never ridden before, YOU are most likely the weakest link. There is a ton of new stuff to pay attention to, learn, sounds, forces, handling effort, braking characteristics, and so on. And, they will be different on each and every machine. Learning to adjust and adapt to them is what the shake-down is all about, learning your capabilities and enhancing your skills while discovering just what the Spyder can and cannot do. Finding your limits of control and the Spyders is not something I would recommend doing with a lot of bravado - especially if you are new to motorcycling.

I agree, it seems that the engines and transmissions in modern vehicles are extremely durable and require no "special" handling during the "break-in". But, paying attention to the rest of the Spyder is also important. Are the cables binding? Is there something loose? Are there "unusual" vibrations? A lot Spyders in the past have brakes that squeal ( not uncommon with new brakes ). Some have 'surging' issues when at a stop and require the brakes be on so the Spyder does not roll forward. Some people hear a clicking sound in the front wheels. This forum has plenty of reports from new owners of these and other things to pay attention to. Most simply go away during the break-in period.

If you are a new rider and have read the manual, there is lots of good advice to pay attention to. You will also notice that BRP does not recommend any specific RPM for shifting or for cruising - in any gear. You will also notice that different riders have different ranges that they prefer. Beyond. "do not lug the engine" and "do not red-line the engine", you will have to find your own. The best places to shift will develop for you based on speed, sound, vibration and the type of gas mileage you want - do not worry about it or obsess over it - it will come to feel natural. With the Spyder, if you stay between those two limits, you will not be "hurting" or "damaging" the engine. After all the years of my riding motorcycles, the Spyder is very different when it comes to shifting - on most bikes you can "feel" or "hear" when you need to shift - with the Spyder, it seems to me to be a matter of the riders choice. I shift usually when there is not a lot of power in the gear I am in and the next gear will give me more ( plus whatever the road and traffic conditions will take ). You will notice that the closer you ride to the RPM redline, the worse your MPH will be.

Besides what the manual and GroundEffect recommends, the only things I can add or re-enforce for the mechanical break in is;

• Let the engine warm-up to at least two bars ( 3 is recommended) before riding. During that time, get yourself set for the ride, check over the vehicle - all that prep stuff that is on the Riders Card.
• When you do take the Spyder in for its 600 mile service, ask how the oil looks. It will be a subjective call by the tech, but too much metal in the oil may point to trouble in the future or be something to watch before your next service.
• Keep your Spyder clean. By using a detailer on it after your rides, besides protecting the finish, you can find things that might be going "wrong" ( loose screws, frayed wiring, tire damage, etc. )

You + Spyder = a unique combination. Get use to each other and the conditions (traffic, roads, weather) that you both face. The Spyder will become an extension of you, but until your skills are fully developed on the Spyder, I really recommend that you approach your and the Spyders limits with lots of attention and caution. You will have plenty of smiles and thrills - and a lot fewer scratched and scuffed wheels, cracked fenders and trunks.

Tom