Brake peddle

[billybovine]

Do me a favor, and try an experiment...
Bolt the pedal on, climb up on the bike, and MASH IT; just like you would if you thought that you were getting close to the Pearly-Gates! :yikes:
The 'Boards don't normally release; it takes a "Larger Than Life" poke at the pedal, to make it drop...
I can actually make mine release, by just pushing down with my hand on the pedal... :shocked:
But i've got Heavy hands!

Please let us know if it works for you!

Good way to check if it works Bob.

I have not put on the bigger pedal. But I wanted to see how far my pedal goes down before the floorboard releases. I did it by hand so I could get a good view. The pedal travels a little more than half the pad thickness below the top of the board before it releases. Depending on the shape of the bottom of the bigger pedal a 1/4 inch spacer may do it.

So anyone that has put the bigger pedal on a 2013/14 SE that have the factory floorboards it looks like it is easy to test. Push down hard on the pedal until either the board releases (good) or the pedal hits the board (bad).

 

[Bob Denman]

That is just about exactly what my experience was as well... :2thumbs:

 

[robmorg]

This larger brake pedal works great on our 2014 RT's. We changed them out and no problems.

NOW, I'm confused. The TricLED web site says: "PLEASE NOTE: THE EXTENDED BRAKE PEDAL IS NOT COMPATIBLE WITH ANY OF THE 2013 MODELS WITH FLOORBOARDS" in big red letters. I wanted one for the same reason as others have mentioned here, so I sent an email to "Steve Allen" who apparently designed this mod and asked him why it wasn't compatible, and could he make one that was. Here is his response....

My pedal works on 2013 with floorboards. It just needs a spacer between the pedal. That is what I'm told. A lot of Spyder riders have made a spacer to make the pedal stop before the floorboards. I make each pedal as I need them. I made them for my 08 RS and my 010 RT. Didn't expect other people would like them so much. You can get a piece of alum, wood 1"H x1-1/4"W x 2-14"L. Bolt is 10 mm. bolt head about 1-1/2" long and use loc-tite.
Regards
Steve
​

I have no idea what he is talking about. Spacer between the pedal and where? And what would I do with this piece of aluminum he mentions in the last sentence? (It sounds like maybe those are instructions for making a larger pedal from scratch instead of ordering his.) When I sent an email reply back asking for clarification, or a picture, he never answered.

Others have talked about a spacer in this thread, but I cannot picture it. Where would that spacer go and what exactly would it do? And could you just use a washer for the spacer, or is this something that has to be fabricated? I guess I'd actually have to have one of these extended pedals in my hand to figure this out, but I'd like to know for sure it's going to work before I buy it.

​

 

[Buggy]

When the floor board breaks away does it just snap back in place? I assuming it Is hinged from the back and does not fall completely off:yikes:

 

[billybovine]

Floor board in operation video

How the front of the floorboard drops and how it is reset.

 

[Buggy]

How the front of the floorboard drops and how it is reset.

Thanks that was great info.....what part of the pedal engages the latch that makes it drop?

 

[Bob Denman]

You can perform that trick, right in the comfort of your own garage!
Put your hand on the pedal, and just push it down until the floorboard drops... :thumbup:
If by any chance, your pedal touches all the way against the 'Board, without it releasing; you're a candidate for the addition of a spacer that raises the pedal up a little bit...

 

[bluestratos]

Well I tried again and it definitely interferes with the break away feature. Yes I can make it work with enough force but I do not want to find out too late that it slows breaking in an emergency. Adding a space compounds the problem in the feel that the peddle is high now and I would be fear full sliding my small foot under the peddle in an emergency. As the web sites says, this peddle is not designed for use with the 13 and 14 models and I recommend against it.

 

[Fat Crip]

I have ISCI handbrake, but sometimes my foot seems to find itself under the pedal meaning that when you pull the lever, rather than slowing down, I just squeeze my foot! Normally this isn't a problem as I just release the lever a little, move my foot and re-apply the lever. BUT, in an emergency the urge to just brake harder is difficult to resist!

 

[billybovine]

Thanks that was great info.....what part of the pedal engages the latch that makes it drop?

The pin circled in red.

 

[billybovine]

I have ISCI handbrake, but sometimes my foot seems to find itself under the pedal meaning that when you pull the lever, rather than slowing down, I just squeeze my foot! Normally this isn't a problem as I just release the lever a little, move my foot and re-apply the lever. BUT, in an emergency the urge to just brake harder is difficult to resist!

You did not share your year and model of Spyder. But if you have a 2013 or 2014 SE model with factory floor boards. There should be a pedal guard under the brake pedal to stop your foot from going under it.

 

[billybovine]

Well I tried again and it definitely interferes with the break away feature. Yes I can make it work with enough force but I do not want to find out too late that it slows breaking in an emergency. Adding a space compounds the problem in the feel that the peddle is high now and I would be fear full sliding my small foot under the peddle in an emergency. As the web sites says, this peddle is not designed for use with the 13 and 14 models and I recommend against it.

If you're that close it would not take a very thick shim to make it work right.

The breakaway floorboards was designed to make it more comfortable to find the brake pedal. Adding shims to raise the pedal kinda defeats the purpose.

 

[billybovine]

You can perform that trick, right in the comfort of your own garage!
Put your hand on the pedal, and just push it down until the floorboard drops... :thumbup:
If by any chance, your pedal touches all the way against the 'Board, without it releasing; you're a candidate for the addition of a spacer that raises the pedal up a little bit...

If you can't push the pedal down far enough to do either. Go have a bowl of Wheaties and try again.

 

[OldDog]

Hand brake

:agree: I have the ISCI hand brake and it is the best decision I made. Really makes my ride more enjoyable. A bonus is that when you start to grip the hand brake, the foot pedal starts to lower on its own which makes it easier to get your foot on it in the event you need to hit both at the same time.

Quality product. It is a pricey mod but, for me, it was worth every penny!

Good luck!

The ISCI hand brake is a well made unit. I wish a hand brake were standard equipment on all Spyders.

 

[Fat Crip]

You did not share your year and model of Spyder. But if you have a 2013 or 2014 SE model with factory floor boards. There should be a pedal guard under the brake pedal to stop your foot from going under it.

It's a 2013 STS SE5, and, if there's a guard, I can't see it and it certainly doesn't work!

I should also add that this is not to take away from the handbrake, which is a great piece of kit!

 

[bluestratos]

Mine has the guard but when the wider pedal is used you can slide far enough under to hook under the brake. I have had to do a few panic stops on my 2011 and it spooked me good when I missed the pedal and had to lift and do it again. So far this has not been a problem on my 14.

 

[billybovine]

It's a 2013 STS SE5, and, if there's a guard, I can't see it and it certainly doesn't work!

I should also add that this is not to take away from the handbrake, which is a great piece of kit!

The guard is item 46 and if you don't have one you need to get one. Unless you have the bigger pedal, it won't work anyway.

 

[Fat Crip]

Thanks Billy, I'll take a look.

Eric

 

[robmorg]

This is Frustrating!!!

The guard is item 46 and if you don't have one you need to get one. Unless you have the bigger pedal, it won't work anyway.




View attachment 96090

Thanks, Billy, for posting these drawings. However, notice that the floorboard release mechanism on the RT-S and RT-Ltd works altogether different than on the ST. There is no floorboard "release mechanism stud" on the brake pedal arm as you saw on the ST drawing in post #30 above. Instead the release mechanism stud" is actually located on the top of the release mechanism itself above the lever that releases the floorboard latch pin.. (See the drawing below from the shop manual for the RT. The stud is #1 in the drawing, the release pin is #7.) I am guessing what is supposed to strike the stud (pushing it forward to release the pin) is that raised part on the brake pedal arm in Billy's drawing that is immediately above the rotation point. (You can actually see that raised part of the pedal arm in the drawing below immediately below where the number 1 is.) You cannot actually see or feel this stud on the bike because it is behind the floorboard housing panel.

On my 2013 RT, I can easily release the floorboard by manually pushing in the release mechanism directly below the latch pin. But NO AMOUNT OF PRESSURE on the brake pedal will release it. I've tried stomping on the pedal and standing on the pedal. Nothing works. So I have no idea how this floorboard release system is supposed to activate on the 2013 RT. Also don't know if the 2013 and 2014 RT models are the same in this regard.

Can anyone shed any light on this, specifically with respect to the RT-S and RT-Ltd.? I'd like to know if mine is not working properly.


RT-S and RT-LTD SE5 Only

RT MODEL SHOWN - PARTS REMOVED FOR CLARITY
1. Footrest mechanism stud
2. Footrest release mechanism retaining screw
3. Footrest release mechanism spring
4. Spring retaining screw
5. Footrest release mechanism latch
6. Brake pedal
7. Latch pin

 

[Bob Denman]

Rob,
If it won't release; There's something not quite right about it... :shocked:
You might want to mention this to your dealer.