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Brake Failure RT - Can I reset the fault codes?

I installed a trailer light kit in my 2017 RT-S - "Value Acc Can Am RT Trailer Wiring Harness 10-19, 5 to 4 wire converter" I turned the bike on after installing the kit to test the bikes tail lights; the right side was ok, but the left side turn signal caused both rear tail lights to flash rapidly. After taking the left side apart and double checking all the connections I realized I had removed the left side mirror and it seems the tail lights would not work without the mirror/the left front turn light. Now with the mirror back on all the lights are working properly, but I still have a brake fault - codes 6c, 34, and 31.

I also replaced the rear tire with this work.

So now that the lights are working properly will the fault reset itself, or do I need to do something else?

Thanks for any replies.
 
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Did you by chance rotate rear wheel with the key on? Rear wheel spinning and front wheels stationary can cause codes. I would ride the bike a few miles and see if the codes clear. If everything is working properly the codes should clear.
 
Thanks for the reply.
I don't recall rotating the rear tire with the key off.

I did run the bike with the rear wheel off the ground to check the belt alignment / tension. Thought maybe spinning the rear tire with the fronts restrained did something. Anyways by just starting the bike and driving it back and forth to turn it around before putting it back on the lift the brake fault has cleared. Everything looks good now.
 
Brake Failure reset
Make sure the key has been turned off for more than 30 seconds. Turn on the ignition key. Wait for the screen to finish booting up. You may not need to push the Mode switch but it won't hurt. Press the brake pedal hard enough to activate the low pressure switch. HARD. If you have good hearing it will be the 2nd click. While holding the brake pedal down. Turn the ignition key off and wait 30 seconds. Release the brake pedal. Then check if the code is cleared. Repeat as necessary.
 
Also won’t hurt disconnecting battery, most codes clear themselves after a good start & few good miles(sometimes few blocks) Unless is reoccurrence & then requires more investigating. Or dealer
 
Thanks for the reply.
I don't recall rotating the rear tire with the key off.

I did run the bike with the rear wheel off the ground to check the belt alignment / tension. Thought maybe spinning the rear tire with the fronts restrained did something. Anyways by just starting the bike and driving it back and forth to turn it around before putting it back on the lift the brake fault has cleared. Everything looks good now.

That'll trigger a code/fault of some sort, every time!! :lecturef_smilie: Spinning the rear with the fronts NOT turning caused the codes... The Nanny looks for all three wheels to be turning at about the same speed all the time, and if they aren't, then as far as she's concerned, you're just about to kill yourself, so she throws whatever code seems most applicable at the time, and sometimes, if there's enough other stuff going on &/or recorded, she'll even dump the Spyder into Limp Home mode!! :shocked: As you've found out tho, usually just a little bit of normal driving/riding with all three wheels turning at the same speed & a little bit of (working ;) ) braking thrown in will clear them from the active codes listing. :ohyea:

But beware!! They'll still be recorded in the computer as a failure, so if you get too many incidents/occurrences recorded like that, your computer/Nanny might decide this recurring problem is a sign of something serious & REALLY try to protect you from yourself by upping the code/limp home ante!! :banghead: (Can you guess how I know this?? :opps: ) It's much safer just to make sure you NEVER spin or drive the rear wheel by itself if you've got the ignition turned on - if you feel you must have the ignition on &/or the engine running, then ALWAYS make sure all three wheels are on the ground and turning at the same speed!! :lecturef_smilie:

It's not really all that hard, just make sure you do any belt alignment/tension checking with the ignition OFF initially, then once you think it's close to right, simply put all three wheels on the ground & ride it for a bit before checking again! :thumbup:
 
That'll trigger a code/fault of some sort, every time!! :lecturef_smilie: Spinning the rear with the fronts NOT turning caused the codes... The Nanny looks for all three wheels to be turning at about the same speed all the time, and if they aren't, then as far as she's concerned, you're just about to kill yourself, so she throws whatever code seems most applicable at the time, and sometimes, if there's enough other stuff going on &/or recorded, she'll even dump the Spyder into Limp Home mode!! :shocked: As you've found out tho, usually just a little bit of normal driving/riding with all three wheels turning at the same speed & a little bit of (working ;) ) braking thrown in will clear them from the active codes listing. :ohyea:

But beware!! They'll still be recorded in the computer as a failure, so if you get too many incidents/occurrences recorded like that, your computer/Nanny might decide this recurring problem is a sign of something serious & REALLY try to protect you from yourself by upping the code/limp home ante!! :banghead: (Can you guess how I know this?? :opps: ) It's much safer just to make sure you NEVER spin or drive the rear wheel by itself if you've got the ignition turned on - if you feel you must have the ignition on &/or the engine running, then ALWAYS make sure all three wheels are on the ground and turning at the same speed!! :lecturef_smilie:

It's not really all that hard, just make sure you do any belt alignment/tension checking with the ignition OFF initially, then once you think it's close to right, simply put all three wheels on the ground & ride it for a bit before checking again! :thumbup:

I have to somewhat disagree with some of the above. While it might be true for the pre 2020 models I can say for certain that it is not true for the 2020+ models.

When adjusting my belt alignment with the rear wheel off the ground I did in fact start the bike. put it into gear and let it sit there and run with the rear wheel turning to check where the belt was running.
I did this several times and not once did the nanny shut it down or throw a code.

Things change all of the time so what used to be the norm may or may not be the norm anymore.
 
brake failure reset
make sure the key has been turned off for more than 30 seconds. Turn on the ignition key. Wait for the screen to finish booting up. You may not need to push the mode switch but it won't hurt. Press the brake pedal hard enough to activate the low pressure switch. Hard. If you have good hearing it will be the 2nd click. While holding the brake pedal down. Turn the ignition key off and wait 30 seconds. Release the brake pedal. Then check if the code is cleared. Repeat as necessary.

this does not work!!!!!!!!!!!
 
It’s worked for me in the past on a 2012 RT, sometimes it took a couple of tries though

Maybe on the 2012 it works, mine is a 2010 and after thorough brake bleeding & etc the brake failure will not reset, I have tried this maybe 50 times, there is no air in the system, all components function as designed but i cannot get it to reset, I think the 2010 needs Buds to do this.
 
I think all is well. Going to be 50 and maybe 60 deg this week in upstate NY so I'm hoping to ride and then I will know for sure. I think I generated the fault code by turning the bike on and trying the taillights with the left mirror off the bike. Seems strange to me that the Spyder would generate codes and go to Brake Failure and limp home for such a simple condition. I mean you have to remove the mirrors for most maintenance just be sure you don't turn on the key and a taillight if a mirror is off the bike.
 
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