Brake bleeding and flush

[Pandy]

Has anyone actually done the brake bleeding and flush per the tech manual? From what I have gleaned from some techs it's a 3 alarm PITA and rather expensive labor wise. I have >28K miles so far and it is well overdue. Getting ready for front pads as well as front tires. So, how about it troops?

Haltingly, Patrick

 

[Ga Blue Knight]

As long as your fluid is not too badly contaminated you should be ok. I would drain our most and replace, run the bike a while and then repeat. Be very carful not to introduce air in the lines or you will do a flush to get the air out!

 

[Pandy]

No evidence of contamination or loss of braking power. Yes, brake fluid will absorb some moisture for certain. I was contemplating the siphon and replace method, I think I will ever so carefully pursue that unless somebody else has a better idea.

Patrick

 

[NancysToy]

I would not siphon and replace. The idea of flushing is to get rid of the brake fluid that may have accumulated moisture, before the moisture corrodes brake lines and parts. Siphoning out of the plastic master cylinder does nothing to replace the fluid in the lines and calipers, in contact with the metal that can corrode. Why bother, in that case? The lines and calipers will still be exposed to possible corrosion. You also risk contamination of the master cylinder every time you insert your siphon. This is a case of "doi it right" or don't do it at all. JMHO

 

[Crisis]

Does anyone have detailed directions on how to do this procedure?
Thanks

 

[Pandy]

Does anyone have detailed directions on how to do this procedure?
Thanks

The procedure involves the removal of much tupperware and a BUDS computer. Rather intense. The original question, however, was whether anyone had had this done. My dealer has done exactly one and that was because of a customer induced casuality.Just looked in my maintenance manual and saw where there is a manual bleeding procedure that is done before the BUDS procedure. Will research this and see if perhaps a "normal" brake flush might work. Or I will ignore the mileage and go to the dealer at the 2 year point and go the whole route. New front pads and tires today, cna't wait to see what happens next.

Patrick

 

[r1100rider]

I would not siphon and replace. The idea of flushing is to get rid of the brake fluid that may have accumulated moisture, before the moisture corrodes brake lines and parts. Siphoning out of the plastic master cylinder does nothing to replace the fluid in the lines and calipers, in contact with the metal that can corrode. Why bother, in that case? The lines and calipers will still be exposed to possible corrosion. You also risk contamination of the master cylinder every time you insert your siphon. This is a case of "doi it right" or don't do it at all. JMHO

Doesn't some of the fluid from the lines return to the master every time the system is pushed and if so wouldn't the old fluid at least be delutied with the new

 

[NancysToy]

Doesn't some of the fluid from the lines return to the master every time the system is pushed and if so wouldn't the old fluid at least be delutied with the new

The only fluid that returns to the master cylinder under normal circumstances is the fluid that was pushed out of the master cylinder when the brakes were applied.

Pandy, if you decide to do the manual bleeding only, be sure not to turn the ignition key on or start the Spyder during the procedure. If you do you will get a brake fault, and BUDS will be needed to get your Spyder back in service.

 

[larryd]

Brake Fluid Flush

I think I remember reading a post on here sometime ago that someone did a complete brake fluid flush...I think they said they zip tied the stop light/brake warning switch so it couldn't activate a code while pumping the brake pedal...

Maybe someone has the post saved or can find it????

larryd

 

[shelbydave]

Bleeders?

I don't have my spyder to look at, and haven't got the service manual yet, but I assume the spyder's calipers has regular bleeder valves?
If so, can you use a vacuum pump / bleeder at each wheel? If so, Harbor Freight sells them cheap. I've used it on the car I restored... worked like a champ. Just push the hose on the bleeder, open the bleeder, and pump. It will suck the fluid out of the Master, and lines. Do all calipers, get the fluid out, then fill the master, and suck the fluid back in to the calipers.

 

[hartspy]

bleed

I have done it the old fashioned way. That is apply and hold brake pressure, pick a wheel and crack open the bleeder and reclose it before you have a loss of fluid flow (in order to prevent the introduction of air). Repump the brake pedal to build up pressure. Then repeat the whole process multiple times for each wheel. All they while keeping a close eye on the fluid level in the resevoir so as not to introduce air at that end either. Slow and tedious, but not expensive. I believe I had to wedge a screwdriver into the brake pedal somehow to keep pressure applied while bleeding, an assistant would be very helpful here. Also you will want a small piece of tubing to put over the bleeder and run it into a catch container or you will have a very large mess to clean up.
Eric

 

[Pandy]

Whilst remounting the front tires today, I took a long look at the front caliper setup. Nothing exotic or unusual there, or in the rear as well. I think I will proceed with the tried and true vacuum pump method that has worked on so many other brakes and clutches that I have had occasion to touch. And yes, leaving the key strictly off. Should also be easier to see when clean fluid starts emerging. I will emulate the BRP order of manual bleed as stated in the manual.

Patrick

 

[ulflyer]

Have at it Pandy and let us know how you make out. I paid $150 recently to a dealer to do mine but next time will try it myself.