billybovine, battery question...

[Easy Rider]

I guess if the dealer can charge the battery, then I'll know it's the charger. I'm pulling the battery now.

That may not be good proof. Some chargers are specifically designed to NOT charge when the battery is below a certain point.

What I was suggesting is that the "reverse current" diode (or similar circuitry) has gone bad.......and that can fail without affecting it's ability to charge.

If you don't own a multi-meter, you should get one.
An adequate one can be had for less than $20. Sometimes even free at Harbor Freight with a coupon.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I guess if the dealer can charge the battery, then I'll know it's the charger. I'm pulling the battery now.

Not necessarily. What you haven't mentioned, I don't think, and no one has asked, is what kind of add-ons do you have that might be drawing current all the time? The Spyder electronics draw current constantly and they might draw the battery down enough in 3 weeks to not let you start your bike, especially if the battery is not in top condition. If you have stuff added that are powered all the time that exacerbates the situation. Keep in mind the battery does not have to be totally discharged for the bike to not start. In fact it doesn't have to be discharged very far down at all. If the voltage drops to 10.5 or less, the computer won't boot up and the bike won't start. In the past most any bike would still easily start at that voltage but not the Spyder.

 

[wyliec]

Not necessarily. What you haven't mentioned, I don't think, and no one has asked, is what kind of add-ons do you have that might be drawing current all the time? The Spyder electronics draw current constantly and they might draw the battery down enough in 3 weeks to not let you start your bike, especially if the battery is not in top condition. If you have stuff added that are powered all the time that exacerbates the situation. Keep in mind the battery does not have to be totally discharged for the bike to not start. In fact it doesn't have to be discharged very far down at all. If the voltage drops to 10.5 or less, the computer won't boot up and the bike won't start. In the past most any bike would still easily start at that voltage but not the Spyder.

I haven't added any items since 2009. There is nothing powered all the time, unless you consider an unswitched circuit as being powered all the time. I did find the owner's manual, and I believe it is the Ultimizer that is bad. When I removed the Ultimizer from my Spyder last April, and all the times before, the Charged lite was ON indicating fully charged. Since I took the spyder off the road in October (like around the middle of the month), I was periodically (maybe every 2 weeks) charging the battery. But, what I noticed each time I charged the battery, the Charged lite would come in less than 5 minutes; however, the Ultimizer then switched OFF, indicated by the OFF lite being energized, and never gave it a second thought. Looking at the Owner's Manual now, once the battery is completely charged, the Charged lite and ON lite are lit; the Ultimizer isn't supposed to switch OFF. So, the Ultimizer hasn't been working correctly since I stored the spyder in the middle of October, which may account for the battery being to low on charge to start the bike, but only showing the start up scrolling message in the spyder display. I have a call into Odyssey to verify what I have said. If both battery and charger are kaput, I'll purchased the OEM battery, and Deltran charger.

 

[wyliec]

That may not be good proof. Some chargers are specifically designed to NOT charge when the battery is below a certain point.

What I was suggesting is that the "reverse current" diode (or similar circuitry) has gone bad.......and that can fail without affecting it's ability to charge.

If you don't own a multi-meter, you should get one.
An adequate one can be had for less than $20. Sometimes even free at Harbor Freight with a coupon.

I'm about 90% sure it is the Odyssey charger that bit the dust, especially since the lites on the charger went berserk when I first turned it on the other day, and also reading the Owner's Manual today helped.

 

[bscrive]

I put one of those Odyssey batteries on my wife's old GS. It lasted about 2 months and then totally crapped out. The light on the dash went all weird and codes were thrown like crazy. I put a regular Yuasa battery and all was good for the rest of the time she had it. I have no confidence in those pieces of junk. Do yourself a favor and get a new battery.

 

[blitzkreig]

The PC680 must be charged at a higher amperage than a standard trickle charge.

If you have one of those popular CTECK chargers it is the "Snow Flake" mode and not the motorcycle mode which must be used.

There are special instructions on the Odessey website in bringing their particular flavour of AGM battery back from the dead.

These batteries should last 6 or 7 years at least. The manufacturer says "up to 9 years ... ".

They thrive in colder weather and really don't need to be put on a trickle charger for the winter. Seriously :hun:

 

[wyliec]

Short story. Battery was unrecoverable, and charger was not working properly. Although battery was beyond warranty, the factory rep is giving a local supplier authorization to supply me with a new one. Odyssey no longer uses/sells the Ultimizer, and no credit for my next purchase of the new style. I’m okay with that.

 

[JerryB]

Hi wyliec,

Re: Battery was unrecoverable, and charger was not working properly.

Wow. Double whammy. Those are types of problems that have you going in circles trying to solve.

At least now you know how to make progress.

Best of luck; and I feel for you,

Jerry Baumchen

 

[jaherbst]

So many opinions, so little time.

​Jack

 

[wyliec]

Besides another battery at no charge, I'm getting a discount on the charger; my charger was way, way past warranty.