BEST Warranty . . . . our first encounter

[CyncySpyder]

I could be wrong here, but.·········

If I remember correctly, Murphybrown wrote of her experience with best when she was stranded on the side of the road in Nowhere USA & was at first told she'd have to wait til morning. Then she colorfully explained what the towtruck driver was likely to find in the morning, since she would have to sleep on the side of the road. Once this point was understood, a tow-truck was on its way. So yeah, if your in an "EMERGENCY" situation, I believe they will still come out ASAP.

Maybe Murph will pick up this thread & help clarify for all of us :2thumbs:

 

[Spyder Cat]

If I remember correctly, Murphybrown wrote of her experience with best when she was stranded on the side of the road in Nowhere USA & was at first told she'd have to wait til morning. Then she colorfully explained what the towtruck driver was likely to find in the morning, since she would have to sleep on the side of the road. Once this point was understood, a tow-truck was on its way. So yeah, if your in an "EMERGENCY" situation, I believe they will still come out ASAP.

Maybe Murph will pick up this thread & help clarify for all of us :2thumbs:

I'm thinking that BEST would have sent someone out if I/we had been stranded because they did ask if I was safe....
but I also think it would have resulted in a double tow charge plus storage/impound fees for the period of time
until the dealer opened and they could drop it off. . . all of which would be up-front, out-of-pocket expenses.

Yes, I'm hoping someone who has gone thru the experience will chime in . . . it's all about getting the BEST education :chat:

 

[smurfette]

Just my two cents

I also have a 2010 RT-A that had an issue with not starting or staying running. Have your dealer check the throttle body, that's what it is on my Smurfette. Good Luck!

 

[Spyder Cat]

I also have a 2010 RT-A that had an issue with not starting or staying running. Have your dealer check the throttle body, that's what it is on my Smurfette. Good Luck!

Black Beauty is at the dealer's now. At this point, we're probably just gonna let them do their thing. :dontknow: See how long it takes.

But when they call us, you can be sure I've got a list of things, and I'll be checking it twice. :lecturef_smilie:
I'll add the throttle body check to the list. Thanks!

 

[Spyder Cat]

Update: Saturday morning 10/22

We just had a call from the Service Mgr at our dealer.
He says they've run the RT thru all the routine tests, charged the battery, changed plugs,
hooked up to the computer, no codes.
They did get it to run but there's definitely a 'performance issue'.
They've talked with BRP several times . . . . still have no idea. :dontknow:

They asked if we want to pick it up and run it for a while . . . . :yikes:
Heck no! We want it fixed. :gaah:

 

[NancysToy]

We just had a call from the Service Mgr at our dealer.
He says they've run the RT thru all the routine tests, charged the battery, changed plugs,
hooked up to the computer, no codes.
They did get it to run but there's definitely a 'performance issue'.
They've talked with BRP several times . . . . still have no idea. :dontknow:

They asked if we want to pick it up and run it for a while . . . . :yikes:
Heck no! We want it fixed. :gaah:

When the computer diagnostics fail to show the problem, it is time for old-fashioned mechanical know-how. Unfortunately, it is in short supply these days. Changing the plugs is not always enough. The plug wires and or ECM may have to be replaced, too. On my 2010 RTS, they had to do all three, plugs, wires, and ECM. That was the only combination that worked. None of this showed on the diagnostics. Bad fuel or a plugged fuel filter is a similar issue. That seldom shows unless it is a severe case. Valve clearances that are too tight can cause issues, too, and never show on "radar". Time to dust off the old stand-by troubleshooting procedure..."Fuel -Air - Spark". Reading the plugs should tell them something if they ride it a while, as will a compression test. I'm with you...Make them fix it!

 

[Spyder Cat]

Update: Starter Relay replacement and something new-to-me

Friday 10/28. Just received a call from our Dealer's Service write with an update about our RT that died 2 weeks ago.

Apparently, the tests they've done along with the numerous interactions with BRP have revealed that the starter relays are cutting out intermittantly. They've ordered replacements (arriving next week, hopefully) for all three relays. When they arrive, they will be replaced and checked along with the connections. Then they'll run it and let us know. Hopefully that will take care of the problem.

On another issue we asked them to check . . . . the rear shock . . . . . I was told they checked it and that it is operating normally. While discussing their procedure, I learned something new.... I did not know that the shocks have to be reset while in 1st gear. :hun: Apparently, we had taken the setting (decreasing the toggle on the console) all the way down to the bottom which is the dump button. When the 'up' botton is activated in 1st gear, it refills the shock.

Hoping this fix works and that we don't run out of this great weather before we get it back!!!! ray:

 

[NancysToy]

Friday 10/28. Just received a call from our Dealer's Service write with an update about our RT that died 2 weeks ago.

Apparently, the tests they've done along with the numerous interactions with BRP have revealed that the starter relays are cutting out intermittantly. They've ordered replacements (arriving next week, hopefully) for all three relays. When they arrive, they will be replaced and checked along with the connections. Then they'll run it and let us know. Hopefully that will take care of the problem.

On another issue we asked them to check . . . . the rear shock . . . . . I was told they checked it and that it is operating normally. While discussing their procedure, I learned something new.... I did not know that the shocks have to be reset while in 1st gear. :hun: Apparently, we had taken the setting (decreasing the toggle on the console) all the way down to the bottom which is the dump button. When the 'up' botton is activated in 1st gear, it refills the shock.

Hoping this fix works and that we don't run out of this great weather before we get it back!!!! ray:

The RT ACS does not operate unless the Spyder is in gear. It can be any (forward?) gear. It does not operate when in neutral.

 

[Spyder Cat]

More ???s on the rear shock settings

The RT ACS does not operate unless the Spyder is in gear. It can be any (forward?) gear. It does not operate when in neutral.

Thanks Scotty. We're learing a lot here . . . . .

So, the shock setting does not reset once the Spyder is turned off?
ie, if it was at neutral setting, and I set it at +2, it would remain at +2 until it was manually set again?

Just trying to get a handle on this . . . .

Does it have a compressor or air storage tank?

Vaughn is thinking that there doesn't seem to be any dampening on the rear shock.

When we had it set 'up', it kept topping out. (heard/felt a thunk)
We had it set down because it kept pogo-ing. (boing, boing, boing) :yikes:


:dontknow: Inquiring minds need to know. :dontknow:

 

[NancysToy]

Thanks Scotty. We're learing a lot here . . . . .

So, the shock setting does not reset once the Spyder is turned off?
ie, if it was at neutral setting, and I set it at +2, it would remain at +2 until it was manually set again?

Just trying to get a handle on this . . . .

Does it have a compressor or air storage tank?

Vaughn is thinking that there doesn't seem to be any dampening on the rear shock.

When we had it set 'up', it kept topping out. (heard/felt a thunk)
We had it set down because it kept pogo-ing. (boing, boing, boing) :yikes:


:dontknow: Inquiring minds need to know. :dontknow:

The setting remains until you set it again. The pressure in the system should also remain fairly steady, unless there is a leak. If it leaks down, the compressor will refill it to maintain the desired height as soon as you put the running spyder in gear. It pays to check the pressure at the Schrader valve under the seat just after parking the Spyder for the night, then check again in the morning. If the pressure is significantly less, the system has a leak that should be repaired. Most common cause is a leaky valve core at the Schrader valve (nneds to be tightened), but some systems have had leaks. There is a TSB that covers this issue, and a repair kit. The bouncing and thumping noise indicate that the shock absorber itself may have failed. This is also an issue covered by a TSB. You dealer can evaluate it and replace it if needed. The topping out is normally caused by an ACS sensor that is improperly adjusted, although a failed shock absorber makes it worse. Many early ones were set wrong, and there is a revised procedure in a TSB...possibly combined with one of the above issues. All early RTs should be checked, and the ACS sensor readjusted per the revised procedure.

 

[Spyder Cat]

The setting remains until you set it again. The pressure in the system should also remain fairly steady, unless there is a leak. If it leaks down, the compressor will refill it to maintain the desired height as soon as you put the running spyder in gear. It pays to check the pressure at the Schrader valve under the seat just after parking the Spyder for the night, then check again in the morning. If the pressure is significantly less, the system has a leak that should be repaired. Most common cause is a leaky valve core at the Schrader valve (nneds to be tightened), but some systems have had leaks. There is a TSB that covers this issue, and a repair kit. The bouncing and thumping noise indicate that the shock absorber itself may have failed. This is also an issue covered by a TSB. You dealer can evaluate it and replace it if needed. The topping out is normally caused by an ACS sensor that is improperly adjusted, although a failed shock absorber makes it worse. Many early ones were set wrong, and there is a revised procedure in a TSB...possibly combined with one of the above issues. All early RTs should be checked, and the ACS sensor readjusted per the revised procedure.

It'll take a couple times through to digest all of that great info.
Thanks Professor :thumbup:

The dealer says they checked the rear shock out and it's performing normally.
:joke:

 

[Spyder Cat]

Black Beauty is home again!!!!

Starter relays (3 of them) were replaced, fluids checked and spark plugs replaced . . .
and she runs like new. Rear shock is operating normally. Valves were fine. :yes:

Vaughn rode her home and was really happy with how it handled.hyea:
I, however, was in front of him in the Toyota for the first 5 miles, and the RT's bouncing headlights
in the rearview mirror were really annoying. (Elkas on front and OEM rear shock.)

We were told we had a one year factory warranty (which has expired) :dontknow:
and the BEST warranty has a $50 deductible . . . . which is what we paid.
Oh, and also they're replacing our muffle under warranty because the paint is coming off.:thumbup:

So, what do ya think about that?! :doorag:

 

[NancysToy]

Starter relays (3 of them) were replaced, fluids checked and spark plugs replaced . . .
and she runs like new. Rear shock is operating normally. Valves were fine. :yes:

Vaughn rode her home and was really happy with how it handled.hyea:
I, however, was in front of him in the Toyota for the first 5 miles, and the RT's bouncing headlights
in the rearview mirror were really annoying. (Elkas on front and OEM rear shock.)

We were told we had a one year factory warranty (which has expired) :dontknow:
and the BEST warranty has a $50 deductible . . . . which is what we paid.
Oh, and also they're replacing our muffle under warranty because the paint is coming off.:thumbup:

So, what do ya think about that?! :doorag:

The Elkas raise the front end a bit, so the headlights shine higher. They have to be adjusted downwards after Elkas are installed.

 

[garganos]

Starter relays (3 of them) were replaced, fluids checked and spark plugs replaced . . .
and she runs like new. Rear shock is operating normally. Valves were fine. :yes:

Vaughn rode her home and was really happy with how it handled.hyea:
I, however, was in front of him in the Toyota for the first 5 miles, and the RT's bouncing headlights
in the rearview mirror were really annoying. (Elkas on front and OEM rear shock.)

We were told we had a one year factory warranty (which has expired) :dontknow:
and the BEST warranty has a $50 deductible . . . . which is what we paid.
Oh, and also they're replacing our muffle under warranty because the paint is coming off.:thumbup:

So, what do ya think about that?! :doorag:

BRP Factory warranty is 2 Years not 1 year. The BEST warranty does have a deductible of $50.00 (after the 2 years expires).

 

[Spyder Cat]

BRP Factory warranty is 2 Years not 1 year.
The BEST warranty does have a deductible of $50.00 (after the 2 years expires).

That's what we thought.... gotta get out our paperwork and take care of some business.
. . . . . i'm thinking somebody needs some educatin' :lecturef_smilie:

 

[netta]

BEST vs BRP warranty

Help me clarify something.My understanding is you can pay for extended warranty through BRP. Is BEST warranty better? Is BEST an extended warranty also?

 

[SpyderWolf]

Help me clarify something.My understanding is you can pay for extended warranty through BRP. Is BEST warranty better? Is BEST an extended warranty also?

BEST is the extended warranty you pay for through BRP, unless it is not offered in your state.

 

[netta]

BEST is the extended warranty you pay for through BRP, unless it is not offered in your state.

thanks! good to know.