On my 2014 RT the belt has always been touching the inside flange. I decided if I was going to check the toe in/out the belt shoud be centered. It took three or four turns of the right adjuster and i even put the belt physically where it shoud be. Started it up while in the air and it went right back to the flange. Where it has been for 10K. Went for a hundred mile ride two up and when I came back the belt was where it is supposed to be. Yesterday I went for a short ride solo, when I got back I noticed the belt is back on the flange. ??? No unusual noises or vibration of any kind. Belt tension is 205 pounds. Any ideas as to why this is happening? Thanks all...............
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Belt wandering
- Thread starter manxman
- Start date
Bob Denman
New member
You always need to run the bike forward and straight for about 20 feet or so, before looking at where the belt sits...
Back up, and it jumps around like a toad on a hotplate!! nojoke
Back up, and it jumps around like a toad on a hotplate!! nojoke
BajaRon
Well-known member
It depends on which Spyder model you have. Look at post #8 on this thread for Newtons to Pounds coversion table for the various Spyder models.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?78306-Gates-Krikit-II-Belt-Tension-Gauges&highlight=newtons
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BajaRon
Well-known member
Harley belts are adjusted with so much deflection at a certain amount of pressure applied. For example, one Harley spec is 6 mm deflection at 10 pounds pressure applied. That is about 1/4" at 10 lbs. We are doing the same thing with the Krikit II gauge. The gauge clicks when it reaches a certain amount of deflection. I've never measured the amount of deflection on a Spyder belt when the Krikit II clicks. But it seems to me it's more than 1/4". I'll have to try that and see.
But I think we are looking at apples and oranges here. Measured the same way as the Spyder, I'm sure the Harley belt is much tighter than 10 lbs.
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Chupaca
New member
Tough one...
when adjusting the belt you will find that if you rotate the rear wheel 10 times forward you will get the tracking while moving down the road. Then rotate the wheel10 time back and you will see the belt walk away from the inner edge (in most cases). Getting that to be mininal is a challenge. Then you still have tension and torquing the axel (which tends to change the tracking) ....makes you miss the old chain drive...:lecturef_smilie:
when adjusting the belt you will find that if you rotate the rear wheel 10 times forward you will get the tracking while moving down the road. Then rotate the wheel10 time back and you will see the belt walk away from the inner edge (in most cases). Getting that to be mininal is a challenge. Then you still have tension and torquing the axel (which tends to change the tracking) ....makes you miss the old chain drive...:lecturef_smilie:
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
Adjusting can be tough
I was talking to the local Spyder tech yesterday about belt alignment. He commented most Spyders come from the factory/dealer with the belt riding the flange. As for adjusting tracking he said the difficulty of getting it right varies - a lot. On some Spyders you can get it to track with very little effort, on others you fight it for hours. There have been times he's taken the Spyder out on the road carrying the wrenches with him. He'll ride a few blocks, stop and make an adjustment, ride some more, stop, adjust, and so on until he gets it right.
The important thing, he said, is to get the belt to track off of the flange, even if it is only a smidgen. Even though the spec has been 1 to 5 mm, between the flange and outer edge is what matters.
I'm beginning to think that the belt will change shape ever so slightly after retensioning it, which will occur when you adjust tracking, and that causes it to move after a supposedly successful alignment process.
I was talking to the local Spyder tech yesterday about belt alignment. He commented most Spyders come from the factory/dealer with the belt riding the flange. As for adjusting tracking he said the difficulty of getting it right varies - a lot. On some Spyders you can get it to track with very little effort, on others you fight it for hours. There have been times he's taken the Spyder out on the road carrying the wrenches with him. He'll ride a few blocks, stop and make an adjustment, ride some more, stop, adjust, and so on until he gets it right.
The important thing, he said, is to get the belt to track off of the flange, even if it is only a smidgen. Even though the spec has been 1 to 5 mm, between the flange and outer edge is what matters.
I'm beginning to think that the belt will change shape ever so slightly after retensioning it, which will occur when you adjust tracking, and that causes it to move after a supposedly successful alignment process.
Mexican
New member
Dealer replaced the rear tire last week, now it rides the flanges both, rear and front, he says is normal, how bad is it/ will it mess something up?
He don't know how to adjust it me thinks,
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
Tell him to RTFM. The belt must not run against the flanges.
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BajaRon
Well-known member
Answer to 1st Question - BAD!
Answer to 2nd Question - YES!
Response to your conclusion - I Agree!
PaladinLV
New member
If you check your owners manual you will see quite CLEARLY that the belt is not nor is supposed to be CENTERED.
AJ
AJ
Ex-Rocket
Well-known member
I have a 2015 RTS and the belt since new has always been against the rear tire flange. It has only recently cause a problem. When moving forward at slow speed I can feel and hear something making a rubbing sound. I'm pretty sure its the belt rubbing the inside flange on the rear wheel. Does anybody agree with me that this is what is causing the rubbing sound? It sounds like getting the belt to track correctly is a bad pain in the a**. :yikes::yikes:
trikermutha
New member
tell them to open the manual it tells YOU exactly how to do it,,Its not hard and takes Patience. It will change once you do final torque of axle..
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