I have a 2013 RTs i got with 9000 miles on it. I road it 11000 miles and it needed rear tire replaced. All the time i had it the belt ran very close to the inside flange on the rear sprocket. The bike has a trailer hitch on it that in ever used. So i changed the tire did not move the belt adjusters and pulled the wheel forward against the adjusters, torqued every to specs and road it couple 100 miles with out the trailer hitch. The belt ran dead center on the sprocket I thought ok this good. Now i slipped the hitch back on and tightened up, now the belt is running on the in side again, it is ok that way but can any body tell me why that would move the belt?
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Belt tracking?
- Thread starter ronpoust
- Start date
Devious56
New member
The book says the belt should run 1 to 3 mm from the flange on the rear sprocket.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
belt and sproket
The belt moves on the sprocket constantly , and I mean left and right on the rear sprocket. Considering the length of the belt I don't find this unusual...... I would only be concerned if the belt was A. smelling ..... B. getting Hot ...... C. leaving really black marks on the Flange ....... my belt is in a different spot every time I stop :dontknow: ...... Mike :thumbup:
The belt moves on the sprocket constantly , and I mean left and right on the rear sprocket. Considering the length of the belt I don't find this unusual...... I would only be concerned if the belt was A. smelling ..... B. getting Hot ...... C. leaving really black marks on the Flange ....... my belt is in a different spot every time I stop :dontknow: ...... Mike :thumbup:
Chupaca
New member
Tough one...
Ideally you should have it as the manual says. Not that simple seeing as you may get it to that point with the wheel in the air but once you put a load on it will shift. Adjustments on the ground are harder to make and though you seem to have it where you want it as you start to roll it will again shift. Roll the wheel backwards and the whole thing will demoralize you as the belt wanders off. Too much playing around with the alignment can also change the tension on the belt...:gaah:I found that if I use the right adjuster to get to the desired tension then adjust the left one for the alignment in the air then check the tracking on the ground and if need be go back into the air and make the correction according to the difference. I do check the alignment rolling backward but just to see what it does and not to make any adjustments because of it..Never had a belt before chains are much easier and a shaft would just eliminate the whole mess....
Ideally you should have it as the manual says. Not that simple seeing as you may get it to that point with the wheel in the air but once you put a load on it will shift. Adjustments on the ground are harder to make and though you seem to have it where you want it as you start to roll it will again shift. Roll the wheel backwards and the whole thing will demoralize you as the belt wanders off. Too much playing around with the alignment can also change the tension on the belt...:gaah:I found that if I use the right adjuster to get to the desired tension then adjust the left one for the alignment in the air then check the tracking on the ground and if need be go back into the air and make the correction according to the difference. I do check the alignment rolling backward but just to see what it does and not to make any adjustments because of it..Never had a belt before chains are much easier and a shaft would just eliminate the whole mess....
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