Belt Tensioners

[OverHillAndDale]

I definitely want to smooth out the belt vibration on my bike.

Baker built has a belt tensioner for $235, looks easy to install. SmoothSpyder has one for $280. There may be a couple of others around.

So ... my desire is to get rid of the awful vibration between 65 and 75. Which one of these will do it? Also, I have the "missing belt guard": will I have to remove it to install one of these?

I'd like to order today so I can install this weekend. (Weather will be in the 40s, so it's time to farkle!)

 

[rtlister]

Go back and find a tread on "Belt Tensioners" that I believe was on Dec 1. It may save you some money. Here is a copy of one of the posts in that thread:

You can get the kit from Doc Humphreys at Roadsterrenovations.com and you will need Can Am's Idler Belt Kit part number 219800412 available at your local dealer. Both items are about $35.00, but Pit Bull Powersports stated that they have 40 of them on order and it seems most dealers are sold out of them right now but have them on order. Doc Humphrey also has a good installation video on his web site.
David


Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[trikermutha]

doesn't Lamont have one also??

 

[Dennis elliott]

brp

I just ordered the tensioner from brp still waiting got it. got the install kit from roadster renovations looks to be an easy install same as lamonster price was about 87 bucks

 

[Devious56]

Yes, Lamont does have one. I was one of the testers for Doc's. adapter, and for $35.00 you can't go wrong, BRP's Belt Idler Kit is the other half of the fix, and should be available at your dealers soon for another $35.00. Why did I say 'available soon"? Because this combination works so well for the RT, and the Belt Idler Kit alone for the F3 that even BRP sold out. I originally paid the big bucks for the Smooth Spyder tensioner and will say that it does work. If you would rather have the Smooth Spyder, I can make you a very good deal.

David

 

[Chupaca]

Choices choices....

There are adjustments to the belt tension that move the vibrations to different speeds and tensioners that will help as well. The tensioners all do a good job and it would be a choice of ease of installation and cost. Well in the case of the BRP one availability...I have the smoothspyder and like it but then there were no choices back then. Most of the newer reports are for the BRP on the F3, which has a longer belt, and the fact Doc has adapted it for the RT. :dontknow:

 

[Lamonster]

Just so you know we did make some prototype vibration dampeners but right now we're in a holding pattern till we see what BRP is going to do. My guess is they are either working on this for the RT or already have one in testing. One thing you can say about BRP is when they do have a fix it has been tested and proven. There is a liability that goes with a part like this and that's something to consider too if you do have one come apart on you. If and when BRP comes out with something I won't be able to compete price wise if you look at what the F3 vibration dampener sells for. Right not I'm going to keep working on products I know will sell and let the big guys have this one. :doorag:

 

[dlby]

My ex could put a damper on just about anything.
Give her a call at br95452

I love R&R put another dime in the jukebox baby!

 

[Dennis elliott]

brp Damper

I ordered the brp damper a couple weeks ago its been back ordered jan 13 they say

 

[Devious56]

I ordered the brp damper a couple weeks ago its been back ordered jan 13 they say

Pit Bull Powersports now has them in stock.

David

 

[sjn7708]

I got my brp tensioner from florida powersports in stock

 

[capt.jim]

For those that still have my tensioner on the bottom of the RT and are going to the BRP tensioner adapted to the top, I think I would leave the bottom on and maybe drop the tension down a bit.
The belt is still flopping around on the bottom except under deceleration when it is stretched tight, and may be noticeable on some if the top mount doesn't remove it all.
All the belts are not created equal and a slight imbalance/heavy spot on a belt that long plays a big part in the vibration between two identically tensioned spyders.

I'm really happy for the spyder community and hoping and thinking the BRP tensioners will be standard on both models next year, after 8 long years.
BRP is using us to do the real world testing and put on the miles, which is good. The RT tensioner shouldn't be far behind if the small idlers hold up as expected.

As Lamont stated, liability was always a huge concern for me and I will be relieved for BRP to assume this risk now.
Liability always seemed to be the issue when I asked BRP Reps when they were going to make something so I could stop.
BRP's tensioner is very similar in design to my stainless steel torsion spring model for the F3/F3S, I hope I inspired them in some small way to finally make something.

Looking at BRP's unit, my tensioners seem vastly overbuilt.
Liability wise, I lost sleep and had to be as sure as I could nothing would fail and only used the best American made parts I could find and hoped everyone installed them securely.
For most the bottom mount fixed all the vibration or made a substantial improvement, I know it didn't cure all the vibration issues for everyone.
I hope I brought them some relief and made their time riding more enjoyable, I did the best I could.

Thanks for your business and support through the years and have a safe and happy holidays.

 

[JP58]

I have yours and plan to use both when brp makes it for the RT.

 

[Devious56]

For those that still have my tensioner on the bottom of the RT and are going to the BRP tensioner adapted to the top, I think I would leave the bottom on and maybe drop the tension down a bit.
The belt is still flopping around on the bottom except under deceleration when it is stretched tight, and may be noticeable on some if the top mount doesn't remove it all.
All the belts are not created equal and a slight imbalance/heavy spot on a belt that long plays a big part in the vibration between two identically tensioned spyders.

I'm really happy for the spyder community and hoping and thinking the BRP tensioners will be standard on both models next year, after 8 long years.
BRP is using us to do the real world testing and put on the miles, which is good. The RT tensioner shouldn't be far behind if the small idlers hold up as expected.

As Lamont stated, liability was always a huge concern for me and I will be relieved for BRP to assume this risk now.
Liability always seemed to be the issue when I asked BRP Reps when they were going to make something so I could stop.
BRP's tensioner is very similar in design to my stainless steel torsion spring model for the F3/F3S, I hope I inspired them in some small way to finally make something.

Looking at BRP's unit, my tensioners seem vastly overbuilt.
Liability wise, I lost sleep and had to be as sure as I could nothing would fail and only used the best American made parts I could find and hoped everyone installed them securely.
For most the bottom mount fixed all the vibration or made a substantial improvement, I know it didn't cure all the vibration issues for everyone.
I hope I brought them some relief and made their time riding more enjoyable, I did the best I could.

Thanks for your business and support through the years and have a safe and happy holidays.

I've had your tensioner since my RT was a month old, and feel I had the best of what was available at the time. I tried the BRP / Doc Humphreys unit more out of curiosity than anything else, and thought it was the way to go. I personally feel that being on the top of the belt and not the bottom, is what makes the difference, and instead of a belt tensioner, it acts more like a harmonic dampner. I too was surprised at the difference in weight, but think your design a good one considering the amount of movement of the belt between the top and the bottom. This is just my opinion, based on my experience with motorcycles and go-karts over the past 50 some years.

David VonStein

 

[capt.jim]

Yes, on the top definitely works better.
Space was the limiting factor with the tank on the RT and the crossbar on the F3.
I kept moving my 2" idler back on the F3/F3S until it had clearance under full suspension compression with the weak shock.
I considered making my own smaller idler wheel long ago, but the general consensus from those (I thought) smarter than me said a small bearing wouldn't hold up for long at those belt speeds.
I've tried the BRP on mine for a few weeks and it worked great and doesn't need much tension to quiet things down.
The little 10MM bolt going through the idler will get quite hot if you stop and feel it after a short 80MPH ride, time will tell but I'm hoping and thinking it should be just fine.
Some have also expressed concern to me over the plastic arm, but todays plastics are very tough and with such little tension I don't see any problem at all there either.
For $35 it could be replaced yearly if need be without breaking the bank, you could replace just the idler pulley itself without removing the tensioner.