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Bearing loose in rear hub

right side bearing, rear wheel

don't peen or lock right side bearing, rear wheel. it is designed to float in the hub until inner race lands on the inner spacing tube when the wheel center bolt is tightened. if hub is damaged by seized bearing, replace it.
 
don't peen or lock right side bearing, rear wheel. it is designed to float in the hub until inner race lands on the inner spacing tube when the wheel center bolt is tightened. if hub is damaged by seized bearing, replace it.
I'm not sure where you came up with that but the bearing is not designed to float in the hub. Now the crush tube will float till the axle is tightened.

This is an old post but my hub was replaced and the new bearing was pressed in the new hub.
 
Honda had a bunch of this type of issue with the 1200 and 1500 'wings. They warranteed thousands( likely much more) because the aluminum was too soft for the loads people were putting on the bikes. I'm wondering if that may be what is developing with yours. I believe you tow a trailer, that would magnify any weakness in that area.
 
Honda had a bunch of this type of issue with the 1200 and 1500 'wings. They warranteed thousands( likely much more) because the aluminum was too soft for the loads people were putting on the bikes. I'm wondering if that may be what is developing with yours. I believe you tow a trailer, that would magnify any weakness in that area.

My guess is it's the luck of the draw on the casting and the fact that the belt is so long it requires more belt tension than most bikes. I back mine off from factory specs but it's still quite a bit at 220 lbs. I'm sure a 6061 hub would hold up better but it's not going to retail for $95 bucks.
 
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