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Battery woes

oheresy

New member
My Spyder is having some battery issues lately. Let me start by giving a bit of background.

About 8 months back, I was detailing the Spyder, listening to the radio with the engine on. Mistake. Killed the battery. Charged it up without problem. Every once in a while, if I don't ride for a few days, sometimes the bike won't start. It's happened at least 4 or 5 times now.

Yesterday, after about 4 days of not running, I started the bike up no problem. Went to destination 1, destination 2, destination 3, and destination 4. About five hours later, I tried starting the bike so I could head home. Wouldn't turn over. It just clicked, and reset the computer. Charged it for a good 15 minutes, then started. I rode home, and parked.

This morning, I went to start it to make sure it was good. It tried to turn over once, then reset the computer. I charged it for about 15 minutes, started the engine, disconnected the charger, and let it run for 15 minutes. stopped the engine, let it sit a few minutes, started it again.

About 15 minutes later, I went to start it again. No start, no click, just computer reset. I don't know if it's a bad battery, bad wiring (short) somewhere or what. I'm going to make an appointment to get it checked out (and an oil change) this week. It's a real bummer.

Has anyone come across this problem before?

2011 Spyder RT-S SE5
 
Was at the dealer yesterday and there was a guy who had the same issue. It was the main Ground under the seat was loose.
 
Tighten battery connections every six months....they can vibrate loose. Get a Battery Tender and plug it in your trunk outlet...I plug mine in 90% of the time. It works for me. If you need a new battery, charge it 24 hours before using it.

:spyder2:
 
...It tried to turn over once, then reset the computer...

(2011 RTS SM5) Been there, done that. Has fired right up upon hitting the starter again, while the computer is booting.

First time it was the negative terminal at the battery. Past two times it has been the positive terminal. Next time they are both getting star washers! In my case the ground under the seat was tight (NEVER mess with that one) as was the ground on the frame up front. Usually on a tender (the desulfating kind) unless I get lazy.
 
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First thing to do is clean and tighten the battery terminals (at the battery itself inside the bodywork, not at the jump start terminals under the seat. Also check that the rear frame ground (neggative jump start terminal under the seat) is tight. To test if the battery will take and hold a charge, charge it fully, remove the charger, then let it sit several hours to overnight. Read the voltage with a multimeter. The voltage should be 12.7 or more. If less, the battery probably needs replacement. To do a crude load test, hold the throttle wide open to prevent starting, and watch the voltage while cranking the engine. It should remain at 10.0 volts or more. If not, replace the battery. You may also be experiencing parasitic losses. Often these are from the radio. Make sure the antenna water intrusion service bulletin has been performed. The dealer can also check for excessive idle loss by the radio circuit, and replace the radio if necessary.
 
Battery problem

I had this problem with my bike from day one. Went thru 3 batteries in less than two years . Last battery lost charge in less than two weeks after install. Grounds were all tight as were other connections. Problem was intermittent and impossible to find .Finally had enough and told the dealer to repair it and not call me until the problem was resolved.Kept it 9 days but problem ended up being solved with dealer and BRP consulting.They never did narrow the problem but the did replace the rectifier as a start.....guess what.......That was in June and no more problems and the bike has not been on a tender since then per BRP.If everything is working correctly and you ride on a regular basis , a tender is not needed .
 
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