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battery tender/trickle carger

meathead1978

New member
i jsut purchased a 2012 rt limited leftover model

for most part i will be riding this daily however i was told this needs to be charged everyday now i have the tender built in i have no outlet where i park was thinkig of getting a solar trickle charger any thughts?

also i was told as long as i ride it everydayu the battery charge while riding my comute is 22 miles but the bike will sit for 12 hours while i work
 
:welcome::congrats:Am sure others will chime in but NO u don't have to charge it all the time maybe if u park it for a month or more.
 
This is an issue that has been blown out of proportion...
A 22 mile commute with certainly be enough to get the electrons flowing around nicely. :thumbup:
And if mine sits for a week..,. (rarely! :shocked:), I'll plug it in for a quick snort!
 
i jsut purchased a 2012 rt limited leftover model

for most part i will be riding this daily however i was told this needs to be charged everyday now i have the tender built in i have no outlet where i park was thinkig of getting a solar trickle charger any thughts?

also i was told as long as i ride it everydayu the battery charge while riding my comute is 22 miles but the bike will sit for 12 hours while i work


22 miles should keep your battery in good shape. Here's what I base that on. I've been plugging my tender in after every ride(long and short) for months now. This tender has an indicator light that signals when it is charging. Per that light it only stays in the charge cycle long enough to replenish the juice used by the lights, fan, and anything else that stays on for a few moments after shut down.

Like others have said. If you're parking the spyder long term it's a good idea to use a tender.
 
One factor that must be taken into account is the temp.. If the bike was spending 12 hours at a time in severe cold it would affect the battery much more than tepid weather
 
I have a battery tender on mine all the time while at home, I get into the habit of putting it on when I get home no matter what. I wouldn't worry about it while you're out and about riding or parked for the day working. I would use the half/travel cover to stop any long term damage from the sun.

I picked up a bunch of those solar charges while they where on clearance at Lowes, I paid $3.95 each they work quite well, use them on my truck because it parked all day out in the sun. Wouldn't charge a dead battery but enough to keep a good one sane.

harry
 
i jsut purchased a 2012 rt limited leftover model

for most part i will be riding this daily however i was told this needs to be charged everyday now i have the tender built in i have no outlet where i park was thinkig of getting a solar trickle charger any thughts?

also i was told as long as i ride it everydayu the battery charge while riding my comute is 22 miles but the bike will sit for 12 hours while i work

You should read the following info provided below for an understanding of the reasons you may want to use a "tender". If you are consistently riding the distance you mentioned, then you are in good shape overall. However, there is such a thing called sulfation, which can slowly rob your battery of its "starting-power", as well as shorten its life.

I happen to know from personal experience, and years of others' experience; that you can prolong a battery's life with regular use of a tender (battery conditioner).

Here is the information I mentioned:
Due to chemical interactions inside a lead battery it must be used on a regular basis or sulfation will occur. Sulfation interferes with the ability of the battery to accept, hold and deliver a charge, and left unchecked will render the battery useless far short of its designed life. In understanding how, and under what circumstances sulfation takes place, one can take measures to avoid it and prolong battery life by years. This is not only good for the pocketbook, but for the environment.

In basic terms, a common acid battery consists of a series of oppositely charged lead and lead oxide plates which divide cells. Battery cells are filled with a mixture of 65% distilled water and 35% sulfuric acid, or electrolyte solution. Electrolyte produces electrons. While under charge electrons move between the plates discharging energy in the form of volts. The lead plates convert this energy into electricity. Each cell can produce about 2.1 volts of charge, therefore a 12.6-volt battery, for example, requires six cells.

Sulfation occurs when the battery sits for long periods of time and the electrolyte solution begins to break down. Sulfur in the solution leaches from the electrolyte, sticking to the lead plates as converted lead sulfuric crystals. These crystals coat the plates preventing them from doing their job at the next crank. Compounding the problem, the electrolyte solution becomes weaker because it is lacking the sulfuric acid that has converted to crystals.

This equation reduces the ability of the battery to deliver and accept a charge.

Stages of sulfation include an initial form that might reduce quick starting, but will be absorbed back into the electrolyte when charged. With more time, stage one progresses into stage two sulfation, wherein small crystals begin to form on the plates. At this point the battery might not start the vehicle, and will require a greater charge to break the crystals free. If the battery sits long enough, stage two sulfation will advance into stage three, resulting in a non-chargeablebattery. The lead sulfuric crystals of stage three sulfation can grow so large as to cause thebattery case to bow.

To keep sulfation from occurring, a battery need only be maintained in a fully charged state. For those vehicles and crafts used on a daily or semi-daily basis, this isn’t a problem. However, pleasure boats, personal aircraft, recreational vehicles, off-road vehicles, and motorcycles that are used occasionally will develop battery sulfation, barring preventative measures.To slow this process, some people disconnect the battery from the vehicle when not in use, but sulfation and self-discharge still occur. A better, more convenient and effective solution is to use a device called a battery conditioner. A battery conditioner will keep the battery fully charged between uses, without overcharging it.

Battery Minder
and Battery Tender are examples of two such products, designed specifically to prevent sulfation and extend battery life by as much as several years.
 
You should read the following info provided below for an understanding of the reasons you may want to use a "tender". If you are consistently riding the distance you mentioned, then you are in good shape overall. However, there is such a thing called sulfation, which can slowly rob your battery of its "starting-power", as well as shorten its life.

I happen to know from personal experience, and years of others' experience; that you can prolong a battery's life with regular use of a tender (battery conditioner).

Here is the information I mentioned:
Due to chemical interactions inside a lead battery it must be used on a regular basis or sulfation will occur. Sulfation interferes with the ability of the battery to accept, hold and deliver a charge, and left unchecked will render the battery useless far short of its designed life. In understanding how, and under what circumstances sulfation takes place, one can take measures to avoid it and prolong battery life by years. This is not only good for the pocketbook, but for the environment.

In basic terms, a common acid battery consists of a series of oppositely charged lead and lead oxide plates which divide cells. Battery cells are filled with a mixture of 65% distilled water and 35% sulfuric acid, or electrolyte solution. Electrolyte produces electrons. While under charge electrons move between the plates discharging energy in the form of volts. The lead plates convert this energy into electricity. Each cell can produce about 2.1 volts of charge, therefore a 12.6-volt battery, for example, requires six cells.

Sulfation occurs when the battery sits for long periods of time and the electrolyte solution begins to break down. Sulfur in the solution leaches from the electrolyte, sticking to the lead plates as converted lead sulfuric crystals. These crystals coat the plates preventing them from doing their job at the next crank. Compounding the problem, the electrolyte solution becomes weaker because it is lacking the sulfuric acid that has converted to crystals.

This equation reduces the ability of the battery to deliver and accept a charge.

Stages of sulfation include an initial form that might reduce quick starting, but will be absorbed back into the electrolyte when charged. With more time, stage one progresses into stage two sulfation, wherein small crystals begin to form on the plates. At this point the battery might not start the vehicle, and will require a greater charge to break the crystals free. If the battery sits long enough, stage two sulfation will advance into stage three, resulting in a non-chargeablebattery. The lead sulfuric crystals of stage three sulfation can grow so large as to cause thebattery case to bow.

To keep sulfation from occurring, a battery need only be maintained in a fully charged state. For those vehicles and crafts used on a daily or semi-daily basis, this isn’t a problem. However, pleasure boats, personal aircraft, recreational vehicles, off-road vehicles, and motorcycles that are used occasionally will develop battery sulfation, barring preventative measures.To slow this process, some people disconnect the battery from the vehicle when not in use, but sulfation and self-discharge still occur. A better, more convenient and effective solution is to use a device called a battery conditioner. A battery conditioner will keep the battery fully charged between uses, without overcharging it.

Battery Minder
and Battery Tender are examples of two such products, designed specifically to prevent sulfation and extend battery life by as much as several years.

Great info.
 
I used a solar on my ultralight battery for a couple years and it kept it nicely charged. Prior to the solar the battery would frequently get too low to start. These things put out such a tiny trickle and only if theres some sun...that may be an issue for you come winter.

Is there any reasonable way you can run an elect cord out so that you can use a Tender?
 
i jsut purchased a 2012 rt limited leftover model

for most part i will be riding this daily however i was told this needs to be charged everyday now i have the tender built in i have no outlet where i park was thinkig of getting a solar trickle charger any thughts?

also i was told as long as i ride it everydayu the battery charge while riding my comute is 22 miles but the bike will sit for 12 hours while i work

Don't worry;
You'll be alright, I don't see why you would need a tender for the type of riding you do.??
 
AGM batteries sulfate at a slower rate than standard flooded batteries. Normally sulfation on a flooded battery starts when voltage drops below 12.4 volts or specific gravity falls below 1.225.

One thing about AGM batteries, they don't take well to high temps and they can't take a deep discharge well. When replacing a battery look at the manufacture date. I wouldn't buy one more than two years old. JMHO.
 
For the battery to start the vehicle reliably, you don't need to keep it on a maintainer. However, if you don't like to spend $150 for a new battery every couple of years, keep it on a maintainer. (not a trickle charger) Your battery life will be extended two or three times easily.
 
i jsut purchased a 2012 rt limited leftover model

for most part i will be riding this daily however i was told this needs to be charged everyday now i have the tender built in i have no outlet where i park was thinkig of getting a solar trickle charger any thughts?

also i was told as long as i ride it everydayu the battery charge while riding my comute is 22 miles but the bike will sit for 12 hours while i work

I don't have a battery tender on mine. If you ride everyday you should need no charger.
 
i was thinking of a oslar charger/tender my self and mounting it to the bike with pluggin into the cigarette lighter in the trunk
 
Everytime I park it for the night it goes on the tender, does not need to i just do it.
The battery on my Venture was nine years old when I sold the bike and I always had the tender on it even just overnight..
Your choice but I think it extends the life of the batt.
mtbear:D
 
Lots of good ideas and information above. Here is what works for me.

During the big sleep--October through March--both :spyder2:'s are on Battery Tender's. I do not run the vehicles in between (per Scotty's very good recommendations). The :spyder2:'s were filled up and given Stabil before the big sleep.

In past years, the :spyder2:,s have fired up on the first try.

Once they are ridden out and about--a 50 mile plus charge em up ride--I do not put the battery tender on the :ani29: until next end of season. I do ride the :spyder2:,s pretty much every day and the :ani29: was getting a 40 mile commute ride each day. Not this year--but I will figure something out :roflblack: Akspyderlady's was driven on the commute ride at least once a week to check it out for the weekend bigger rides. No problems with battery going low either.
 
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The long winter sleep

I have the spyder in a enclosed trailer for the winter and have a solar panel with the monitor
I check it off and on has kept the battery full. In the summer I don't use it as long as I ride once a week.

cheers from tropical minnesota.
 
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