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BATTERY LIGHT

SPYD3R

SPYD3R

Active member
HELP...! ! ! I KNOW NOTHING ABOUT ELECTRICITY.....
my battery light keeps 'flickering' when at idle & in gear... it's an '09 RS with 28,000 miles on it with the original battery... i had the battery tested today @ 2 different auto-parts stores, and it's OK...
my battery tester tells me it's OK too... nojoke wha'sup'wit'dat....??? :banghead: :mad: any suggestions would be gr8'ly appreciated.... :bowdown:
015.jpg
time for a nu ST-S... me thinks.... :2thumbs:
 
Bob Denman said:
You've probably already checked this...
loose or corroded connections? :dontknow:
Click to expand...
That would be my guess, too, unless your magneto or regulator/rectifier is failing. Check the battery connections at the battery (inside the bodywork, not the jumper terminals under the seat), and check the positive and negative jumper terminals under the seat, especially the negative, which is also the rear frame ground. Failing that, I'd check the front frame ground, too. You may need dealer assistance for this, since you say your skills and knowledge (and probably your tools) are limited.
 
I agree with Scotty on the battery connections but if your battery is that old it may not be taking a charge properly and your getting a waring light.
 
I CHECKED

I CHECKED ALL CONNECTIONS....
this started happening as i pulled out of the dealers, after getting my water pump oil leak fixed... i'm going to check and see if a wire wasn't connected properly after that work was completed.....
thx guys... u'r always there when somebody needs u.... :firstplace:
017.jpg
 
SPYD3R said:
HELP...! ! ! I KNOW NOTHING ABOUT ELECTRICITY.....
my battery light keeps 'flickering' when at idle & in gear... it's an '09 RS with 28,000 miles on it with the original battery... i had the battery tested today @ 2 different auto-parts stores, and it's OK...
my battery tester tells me it's OK too... nojoke wha'sup'wit'dat....??? :banghead: :mad: any suggestions would be gr8'ly appreciated.... :bowdown:
View attachment 60476
time for a nu ST-S... me thinks.... :2thumbs:
Click to expand...

64 thousand dollar question, How did they check it, Did they do a load test.?:dontknow:
 
There are several ways a battery can fail, and several tests to identify those issues. A quick test at Autozone cannot do all of them. It is likely that they checked the charging voltage and they may have done a load test. They cannot test the ability of the battery to take a charge or hold a chrge real well. Those tests take some time and a charger.

For the average owner, who happens to have a battery tender and a voltmeter, here is the drill...

A. - Charge the battery thoroughly. Immediately test the voltage. It should be above 12.6 volts...usually well above. If it is low, your battery won't take a charge and should be replaced. If it is close to 12.7 volts, it is weak, they usually are above 13 at this step.

B. - Let it sit off the charger for a couple of hours to overnight. Test again. The voltage should remain above 12.6 volts. If it reads low, the battery won't hold a charge properly, and should be replaced.

C. - Hold the throittle wide open to prevent starting, and crank the starter while reading the voltage. It should remain above 10.0 volts. If not, it has failed this crude load test, and should be replaced. Your dealer can run a more sophisticated load test.

D. - While the Spyder is running, check the voltage. It should read 13-14 volts at 4000 rpm. If not, the charging system has problems and should be checked further by the dealer.

All these tests depend on clean and tight battery terminals and frame grounds (unless the battery is disconnected and tested out of the Spyder). Always check for cleanliness and tightness first...especially if the problem occurs right after servicing. Dealers often fail to tighten the connections properly. In the case of htthe OP, I'd go right back to the dealer. They created the problem, they should fix it.
 
KA-PUT

put the battery charger on my battery last nite... pulled off the clips this morning, and put on the battery tester: KA-PUT.... :banghead: DEAD as a politicians brains.... NOTHING there...

so i called BATTERYS+ and they'll have my replacement tomorrow.... :clap:

thx every1 for all u'r help.... it's gr8'ly appreciated....
266.jpg
 
SPYD3R said:
put the battery charger on my battery last nite... pulled off the clips this morning, and put on the battery tester: KA-PUT.... :banghead: DEAD as a politicians brains.... NOTHING there...

so i called BATTERYS+ and they'll have my replacement tomorrow.... :clap:

thx every1 for all u'r help.... it's gr8'ly appreciated....
Click to expand...

Like i said many times in the past, Battery's are mysterious black boxes, Some last 1 year some 7 years' but when they, Do Give up the ghost, They usually do it without much warning.:gaah:
 
Randy

boborgera said:
Like i said many times in the past, Battery's are mysterious black boxes, Some last 1 year some 7 years' but when they, Do Give up the ghost, They usually do it without much warning.:gaah:
Click to expand...
are you reading this? you know what Holly is going to say when you guys are out spydering, and your battery takes a :cus: t. :roflblack:
 
EGG-ZAK-LEE

NancysToy said:
There are several ways a battery can fail, and several tests to identify those issues. A quick test at Autozone cannot do all of them. It is likely that they checked the charging voltage and they may have done a load test. They cannot test the ability of the battery to take a charge or hold a chrge real well. Those tests take some time and a charger.

For the average owner, who happens to have a battery tender and a voltmeter, here is the drill...

A. - Charge the battery thoroughly. Immediately test the voltage. It should be above 12.6 volts...usually well above. If it is low, your battery won't take a charge and should be replaced. If it is close to 12.7 volts, it is weak, they usually are above 13 at this step.

B. - Let it sit off the charger for a couple of hours to overnight. Test again. The voltage should remain above 12.6 volts. If it reads low, the battery won't hold a charge properly, and should be replaced.

C. - Hold the throittle wide open to prevent starting, and crank the starter while reading the voltage. It should remain above 10.0 volts. If not, it has failed this crude load test, and should be replaced. Your dealer can run a more sophisticated load test.

D. - While the Spyder is running, check the voltage. It should read 13-14 volts at 4000 rpm. If not, the charging system has problems and should be checked further by the dealer.

All these tests depend on clean and tight battery terminals and frame grounds (unless the battery is disconnected and tested out of the Spyder). Always check for cleanliness and tightness first...especially if the problem occurs right after servicing. Dealers often fail to tighten the connections properly. In the case of htthe OP, I'd go right back to the dealer. They created the problem, they should fix it.
Click to expand...

NAN.... i did egg-zak-lee what u told me to do, and it worked.... battery is KA-PUT... THX SO MUCH....
 
NEW BATTERY

NEW BATTERY IN, PROBLEMS GONE.... :thumbup: :yes: :bowdown: :clap: ;) :ohyea: :2thumbs: :f_spider:
thx evey1...
261.jpg
 
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