Battery Help!

[wiredgeorge]

I finished up installing my new anti-sway bar and metal links and was excited to see how they worked. Opened the garage door and turned the key and hit the starter. Solenoid started clicking but the bike wouldn't turn over. I have a 2010 RT and am pretty sure it is the original batter. With only 3K miles, it is likely it sat and cells got sulfated. I have it on a 2A trickle charger now and will probably try some tests tomorrow but the battery is likely toast.

OK, I want to get a battery. Couldn't find the battery type in the owner's manual. Based on some nosing around and probably wanting an AGM battery, I found YTX24HL-BS seems to be the correct battery plus they come charged. Can someone confirm. I am not going to order but buy local so I may not find the specific brand I want or is recommended.

BTW: I didn't leave the key on or have some accessory draining the battery... it just took a dump.

 

[kngfsh27]

2010, get a new battery. You can load test it, but it has seen better days. I used to go through batteries on my Harley every three years keeping it on a charger and riding it on a very regular basis.

 

[finless]

See my post here about the issue or possible issue with the -BS style battery.

I also have a video and talk about that battery in it.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?77494-Replacing-the-battery-on-a-2010-2012-RT

Bob

 

[Ben Burped]

Yuasa

I finished up installing my new anti-sway bar and metal links and was excited to see how they worked. Opened the garage door and turned the key and hit the starter. Solenoid started clicking but the bike wouldn't turn over. I have a 2010 RT and am pretty sure it is the original batter. With only 3K miles, it is likely it sat and cells got sulfated. I have it on a 2A trickle charger now and will probably try some tests tomorrow but the battery is likely toast.

OK, I want to get a battery. Couldn't find the battery type in the owner's manual. Based on some nosing around and probably wanting an AGM battery, I found YTX24HL-BS seems to be the correct battery plus they come charged. Can someone confirm. I am not going to order but buy local so I may not find the specific brand I want or is recommended.

BTW: I didn't leave the key on or have some accessory draining the battery... it just took a dump.

Go back with the same battery. From someone who sells batteries, Yuasa is as good as it gets for the price. An AGM battery is really more of a deep discharge battery instead of a starting battery. Finally, five years is a good life for a battery that sits for months at a time before being used heavily and then left to sit again. Consider using a battery maintainer with your new battery. They are cheap insurance.

 

[MikeinGA]

I finished up installing my new anti-sway bar and metal links and was excited to see how they worked. Opened the garage door and turned the key and hit the starter. Solenoid started clicking but the bike wouldn't turn over. I have a 2010 RT and am pretty sure it is the original batter. With only 3K miles, it is likely it sat and cells got sulfated. I have it on a 2A trickle charger now and will probably try some tests tomorrow but the battery is likely toast.

OK, I want to get a battery. Couldn't find the battery type in the owner's manual. Based on some nosing around and probably wanting an AGM battery, I found YTX24HL-BS seems to be the correct battery plus they come charged. Can someone confirm. I am not going to order but buy local so I may not find the specific brand I want or is recommended.

BTW: I didn't leave the key on or have some accessory draining the battery... it just took a dump.

I got my battery from: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WJX2PY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and no problems.

Mike

 

[Chupaca]

Battery...

stick with the yuasa. As mentioned the best for the price. Sold them and others for many years and those that went with the others eith bought twice as many or changed back...ebay, amazon, cheapcycleparts.com etc carry them. :thumbup:

 

[wiredgeorge]

stick with the yuasa. As mentioned the best for the price. Sold them and others for many years and those that went with the others eith bought twice as many or changed back...ebay, amazon, cheapcycleparts.com etc carry them. :thumbup:

Like I said, just got my RT and want to ride... not sit and wait for a battery to come in a week. I agree that Yuasa is a great brand but I will end up buying from a local place... perhaps a battery place or autoparts place. I put the 2A charger on my too-weak battery and in an hour it started the RT. I may go to the bike shop in Bandera and see if he carries Yuasa as he can get them in one day but they won't be open till Tues.

 

[Chupaca]

I see your predicament...

guess the one your looking a, if no dealers have one at a reasonable price, will do the job. I have seen the Odyssey battery being used also. Though smaller and needing some shimming. The only thing to watch is that the battery is sideways in some cases and may leak. :dontknow:

 

[finless]

Just realize the difference between a -BS (bottle filled by the distributor / seller) and a battery direct for Yuasa or BRP.

I read quite a long article about it. In a nut shell there is a worry that a -BS can leak when new because they are mounted on their side in a 2010-20122 RT. When they are direct from Yuasa, they are cycled to ensure the matt has absorbed all the acid. A -BS is not. When I got my -BS (not knowing of this issue when I ordered), when I shook the battery I could hear liquid. So I cycled it several times and that went away.

Just letting you know the difference.

FYI, My -BS that I put in about 4 months ago is still fine.

Bob

 

[wiredgeorge]

Just realize the difference between a -BS (bottle filled by the distributor / seller) and a battery direct for Yuasa or BRP.

I read quite a long article about it. In a nut shell there is a worry that a -BS can leak when new because they are mounted on their side in a 2010-20122 RT. When they are direct from Yuasa, they are cycled to ensure the matt has absorbed all the acid. A -BS is not. When I got my -BS (not knowing of this issue when I ordered), when I shook the battery I could hear liquid. So I cycled it several times and that went away.

Just letting you know the difference.

FYI, My -BS that I put in about 4 months ago is still fine.

Bob

Bob, I have been studying this issue all AM... I am fairly sure that you will be fine with the maintenance free battery. In fact the only reason a conventional battery wouldn't be a great idea is that the overflow doesn't really have a place to overflow and if any acid were to drip... well not good. I am a bit surprised at how many batteries purported to be direct fits for my Spyder are an inch longer or higher or deeper or some are almost 2 inches shorter. Mainly, I think the size must be about 8"x3.5"x6.5" with the hot on the right and the battery should have in excess of 350 CCA and over 20AH rating. The YTX24HL-BS fits the bill I think and that is where I am going. Thanks! By the way, at some point, we need to get our tar and feather out and find the engineer who designed access to the battery hehe

 

[finless]

Bob, I have been studying this issue all AM... I am fairly sure that you will be fine with the maintenance free battery. In fact the only reason a conventional battery wouldn't be a great idea is that the overflow doesn't really have a place to overflow and if any acid were to drip... well not good. I am a bit surprised at how many batteries purported to be direct fits for my Spyder are an inch longer or higher or deeper or some are almost 2 inches shorter. Mainly, I think the size must be about 8"x3.5"x6.5" with the hot on the right and the battery should have in excess of 350 CCA and over 20AH rating. The YTX24HL-BS fits the bill I think and that is where I am going. Thanks! By the way, at some point, we need to get our tar and feather out and find the engineer who designed access to the battery hehe

FYI the YTX24HL-BS battery I bought did not "quite" fit under the top bracket tang. The battery was just a bit thicker by probably 4mm or so. All I did was bent that top tang up a little to get it in.

Bob

 

[wiredgeorge]

FYI the YTX24HL-BS battery I bought did not "quite" fit under the top bracket tang. The battery was just a bit thicker by probably 4mm or so. All I did was bent that top tang up a little to get it in.

Bob

Yeah, saw the video. Didn't look too bad to install. You obviously are a bit of a tech junky with all the extra wiring hehe I will likely install a separate fuse box and put in a circuit for extra lights (when I can afford them), a hook up for a battery tender and a 12V cigarette lighter type outlet rated for 20A or so... they are out there as I put one on a Goldwing a few years ago. A fuse box near to the battery would probably work best but it is kind of tight under the seat. I would also like to put a voltage gauge somewhere... I had a cute LED gauge from KuryAkyn on a number of my other bikes but there isn't much room up front on the Spyder. Since I have no radio, might find a round gauge and put where a speaker would go... any suggestions?

 

[finless]

Yeah, saw the video. Didn't look too bad to install. You obviously are a bit of a tech junky with all the extra wiring hehe I will likely install a separate fuse box and put in a circuit for extra lights (when I can afford them), a hook up for a battery tender and a 12V cigarette lighter type outlet rated for 20A or so... they are out there as I put one on a Goldwing a few years ago. A fuse box near to the battery would probably work best but it is kind of tight under the seat. I would also like to put a voltage gauge somewhere... I had a cute LED gauge from KuryAkyn on a number of my other bikes but there isn't much room up front on the Spyder. Since I have no radio, might find a round gauge and put where a speaker would go... any suggestions?

On your 2010 base unit do you have a 12V plug in the trunk on the left side?

If so you can just plug a battery tender into that as it is live all the time.

As for a simple volt gauge... I got this on Ebay for cheap and when I was using it, just plugged it into the cig lighter in the trunk.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Blue-LE...Car-/191090992171?hash=item2c7de9242b&vxp=mtr

Bob

 

[wiredgeorge]

Thanks for putting the video together Bob. The UPS truck will be bringing my new battery tomorrow. I would not have easily figured out how to remove the battery without your video although I am pretty handy with a sawzall! The one thing you mentioned regarding taking off the large side panel that was crucial was that the two chromed security bolts that look like torx with the little pole in the middle just fit into grommets was a lifesaver. I watched the video and used a security bit and unscrewed and unscrewed... well I caught the grommet comment in your video and they just popped out. Again, thanks! wg

 

[latony007]

i know there are a million battery threads but because of that it was hard to find what i was looking for, this being the newest one figured id piggy back on here. i have an issue with my spyder that could be battery related ( have another post up about the issue ("electrical issue please help"). my question is where can you find an exact size match locally without ordering something i am not going to have to modify to make fit or get the cables on. i see this one was listed and i may go with it but i have a charity ride coming up and if i need one may not be able to wait the two days. if it is indeed the battery thats bad. going to try jumping it tonight that should tell me.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WJX2PY...colid=42WS1X1QQJO&coliid=I2STBL50YZJWU7&psc=1

 

[latony007]

Believe i found it online, now just have to see if i can get it local. Apparently you need factory activated when the battery is at an angle. Of course im not even sure its the problem so will be $100 down the tube if i get it and it isnt. YTX24HL

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...rue&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER