2010 RS NEW BATTERY PUT ON IN MAY 2013. PARKED IN GARAGE FOR THE WINTER. LAST STARTED 2 MONTHS AGO. AND NO I DID NOT HAVE A TRICKLE CHARGER ON IT. TRIED TO START, 1 TURN THEN NOTHING..PUT CHARGER ON IT AND SAME THING. CHARGED ON 2AMP OVER NIGHT..SAME THING, PARTIAL TURN OVER & NOTHING. ALL LIGHTS-ETC COME ON BRIGHT.
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BATTERY HELP
- Thread starter jabe
- Start date
I recommend removing the battery and either putting it on a deep cycle charger or taking it to a shop that has one. When a battery is allowed to fully discharge like that it can be very difficult to recover it. If it doesn't come back to life only option is buying a new one. I have brought back some batteries before at my shop and it can take up to 3-4 days to fully bring one back sometimes. Give it a shot, may be worth it to save $200 on a new one
crazyspyder
New member
maybe..
time to get out that old voltmeter. could be that you have a dead cell in the battery, although it's new, it's not uncommon. in a dead cell- it would show a full battery until you hit the start switch
and then baam drops voltage fast. but, could also be other factors aswell like starter or loose connections on battery. a lot of people has commented on loose battery connections .try to look at this
first. good luck!:doorag:
time to get out that old voltmeter. could be that you have a dead cell in the battery, although it's new, it's not uncommon. in a dead cell- it would show a full battery until you hit the start switch
and then baam drops voltage fast. but, could also be other factors aswell like starter or loose connections on battery. a lot of people has commented on loose battery connections .try to look at this
first. good luck!:doorag:
Frank G
New member
Listen to the man, he knows what he is talking about.
crazyspyder
New member
but most importantly
what caused the drain in the first place , that's why you would need a voltmeter and start checking. otherwise problem would still be there. I know from hands on experience!:thumbup:...still learning though.:yes:
what caused the drain in the first place , that's why you would need a voltmeter and start checking. otherwise problem would still be there. I know from hands on experience!:thumbup:...still learning though.:yes:
Frank G
New member
My comments were targeted to the reviving of a dead battery. Finding the source of the initial battery drain is another issue. could be bike related or an internal battery issue. If the battery comes back to life and passes battery testing then there may be a bike issue.
Had a similar battery incident in the Piper Aztec this last summer, took 3 days to revive the battery...Oh we left some cooling equipment on that drained the battery.:yikes:
Had a similar battery incident in the Piper Aztec this last summer, took 3 days to revive the battery...Oh we left some cooling equipment on that drained the battery.:yikes:
crazyspyder
New member
its all good here!
:helpsmilie:its kool Frank, just my way of trying to help. no way was I trying to demean your comment. we are all good people here on this forum...cheers.
Mine gets discharged in a few months as well but I have a bunch of stuff hooked directly to a seperate fuse block / battery. I think one time I found the 12V adopter to my GPS was lit in the frunk. So I keep mine trickle charged if I am not going to ride it for a while and over winter. I also switched over to the gel battery.
BTW ... if it won't take charge, it is likely having a short inside the battery itself (that's why I always buy high quality AGM batteries). If you only bought it in 2013, it should still be under warrenty.
BTW ... if it won't take charge, it is likely having a short inside the battery itself (that's why I always buy high quality AGM batteries). If you only bought it in 2013, it should still be under warrenty.
I agree, wana find if there is an issue that's causing it to die prematurely or if there is another issue. Loose battery connections would be one of the most common things I have seen that make it look like the battery is dead when its not. The other thing to note is the improvements that BRP made to the 2104 RT's charging system. Its now an alternator system that puts out twice as much charging voltage than previous years with a stator. Some of the add ons that people install are too much for the stator to keep up with. They didn't design it to run all of the on board computers plus the farkles.
One other factor is who prepped the battery and what brand did you get. When it comes to batteries the motto "you get what you pay for" definitely applies. If it wasn't prepped properly then you were doomed from the beginning. If it's a Yuasa take it back to where you bought it and they may be able to warranty it. I would leave out the "no battery tender" part tho.
i went with a Shoral
here's a start for other ideas http://www.batterystuff.com/batteries/atv/bombardier-brp-can-am/
here's a start for other ideas http://www.batterystuff.com/batteries/atv/bombardier-brp-can-am/
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