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Battery Access

mvengineer

New member
This may sound so basic to so many of you that work on their bikes.How do you gain access to the battery. I read owners manuel, but it is very unclear to me. All I want to do is install a permenant connection ( pigtail!) for connecting the battery tender during winter. Thanks a lot
 
This may sound so basic to so many of you that work on their bikes.How do you gain access to the battery. I read owners manuel, but it is very unclear to me. All I want to do is install a permenant connection ( pigtail!) for connecting the battery tender during winter. Thanks a lot


Left side, rear most panel. Plus the shield above the rear wheel. Actually the shield doesn't have to be removed; only the 3 screws on the left.
 
I've been wondering that too. On page 87 of the Operator's guide, it sounds like you can hook a battery tender up to the terminals under the seat. Don't know if this is the best method but surely the simplest. I just bought a battery tender and am going to hook it up to that. Any other feedback would be appreciated.
 
I did a permanent connection to the battery using stuff from www.powerlet.com so I can hook up things such as GPS, phone and camera chargers, power invertor to charge laptop etc. Made the wiring job simple and the battery tender just plugs into the harness.
 
I've been wondering that too. On page 87 of the Operator's guide, it sounds like you can hook a battery tender up to the terminals under the seat. Don't know if this is the best method but surely the simplest. I just bought a battery tender and am going to hook it up to that. Any other feedback would be appreciated.

I believe you'll find other threads that say to connect directly to the battery, not to the battery connections under the seat.
 
I've been wondering that too. On page 87 of the Operator's guide, it sounds like you can hook a battery tender up to the terminals under the seat. Don't know if this is the best method but surely the simplest. I just bought a battery tender and am going to hook it up to that. Any other feedback would be appreciated.

I wouldn't use those terminals. Take the time and do it right--- hook directly to the battery. The ground connection under the seat is problematic if you loosen it--- a bit of a pain to get tight again.

The battery is a bit of a pain to get to---- and if you have the BRP racks it is a TOTAL PITA to get to.
 
Pop seat. Remove two left side panels-one with can-am label and the rear left side panel with taillight. Disconnect taillight as part of removing this panel-a little tricky to do by yourself the first time-holding panel with one hand and disconnecting the two taillight connectors with the other.

Shop manual says to remove black terminal first - then the red. Be careful of nut behind each terminal-they tend to fall out.

Hopes this helps and doesn't add to the confusion.
 
Pop seat. Remove two left side panels-one with can-am label and the rear left side panel with taillight. Disconnect taillight as part of removing this panel-a little tricky to do by yourself the first time-holding panel with one hand and disconnecting the two taillight connectors with the other.

Shop manual says to remove black terminal first - then the red. Be careful of nut behind each terminal-they tend to fall out.

Hopes this helps and doesn't add to the confusion.
Actually I just did this yesterday and you don,t have to disconnect the turn signal, Just turn it side ways and it will rest against the ground and the bike while you connect the pigtail.
Just got a 1.5 amp maintainer at Wal Mart for 19.95.
 
Actually I just did this yesterday and you don,t have to disconnect the turn signal, Just turn it side ways and it will rest against the ground and the bike while you connect the pigtail.
Just got a 1.5 amp maintainer at Wal Mart for 19.95.
That is a high amperage for a motorcycle battery. Be very careful that you do not damage or even explode the battery with a charger/maintainer of this type and strength. I recommend only the more sophisticated (and expensive) chargers like the Battery Tender Jr., Battery Tender, Accumate, Optimate, or the Xtreme Charge unit No Magic Neon sells.
 
That is a high amperage for a motorcycle battery. Be very careful that you do not damage or even explode the battery with a charger/maintainer of this type and strength. I recommend only the more sophisticated (and expensive) chargers like the Battery Tender Jr., Battery Tender, Accumate, Optimate, or the Xtreme Charge unit No Magic Neon sells.
This is the same Schumacher Maintainer I use on my 255 HP Sea Doo Battery . When charged it Floats until charging is needed. Same as a Battery Tender. Been Maintaining Sea Doo Batteruies for years with them while they where inside the Ski??
 
This is the same Schumacher Maintainer I use on my 255 HP Sea Doo Battery . When charged it Floats until charging is needed. Same as a Battery Tender. Been Maintaining Sea Doo Batteruies for years with them while they where inside the Ski??
I have used the Schumachers, but they tend to boil my wet batteries dry. Might be OK on a sealed battery in continouos use, or in intermittent use if you are careful to take it off in a day or two, and charge only evry few weeks. Some BMW batteries will explode on one, however, from my bitter experience. Still a lot of amperage, I prefer 1 amp or less. One of my Schumakers died, and I no longer use the other ones on my cycles, only the larger car batteries. I have found the chargers made just for cycles make my batteries last longer. Most of those are very small, wet batteries, however. If you've had good luck with what you've chosen, you should be OK.
 
I put a recharge cord on battery plug it in the winter trickel charge plus is under seat left undid 3 screws easy to do helps
 
Battery terminal

I believe you'll find other threads that say to connect directly to the battery, not to the battery connections under the seat.

What would be wrong with using the terminals under the seat to hook a battery maintainer to using alligator clip connections. I have actually done this and seemed to work just fine. I can't see removing panels ect. to charge the battery when there are remote connections provided under the seat.:dontknow: If there is a technical reason that I have missed I would appreciate knowing.:f_spider:


Michael:doorag:
 
Battery charger

That is a high amperage for a motorcycle battery. Be very careful that you do not damage or even explode the battery with a charger/maintainer of this type and strength. I recommend only the more sophisticated (and expensive) chargers like the Battery Tender Jr., Battery Tender, Accumate, Optimate, or the Xtreme Charge unit No Magic Neon sells.

Scotty-I also have the Schumacher battery maintainer/1.5 max amp with regulator and have used it on my goldwing for several years. I just leave it hooked up in the winter when i'm not riding and it works fine. I am planning to use it on the Spyder and hook to the remote connectors under the seat using alligator clips. I am hoping that will work.:dontknow: BTW does anyone know what the Spyder charging system outputs in amps.


Michael:doorag:
 
What would be wrong with using the terminals under the seat to hook a battery maintainer to using alligator clip connections. I have actually done this and seemed to work just fine. I can't see removing panels ect. to charge the battery when there are remote connections provided under the seat.:dontknow: If there is a technical reason that I have missed I would appreciate knowing.:f_spider:


Michael:doorag:
You only have to take the rear panel off once. You connect the + and - of the "Y" connector and feed the end up under the seat.
You open the seat and plug in the Y connector then plug in the charger. ( The Y connector is attached to the battery polls permanently.)
 
battery

You only have to take the rear panel off once. You connect the + and - of the "Y" connector and feed the end up under the seat.
You open the seat and plug in the Y connector then plug in the charger. ( The Y connector is attached to the battery polls permanently.)

Yes, I understand what you have done and that is a good mod in my books; However since there are already battery terminals (secondary terminals) under the seat why can't you just hook to them using small alligator clips and not have to install anything. Just hook it up and turn the battery maintainer on.:f_spider:


Michael:doorag:
 
What would be wrong with using the terminals under the seat to hook a battery maintainer to using alligator clip connections. I have actually done this and seemed to work just fine. I can't see removing panels ect. to charge the battery when there are remote connections provided under the seat.:dontknow: If there is a technical reason that I have missed I would appreciate knowing.:f_spider:


Michael:doorag:

BW,

Nothing wrong with that, but the poster said he wants to install a pigtail. Have you ever tried to loosen one of those nuts under the seat? :gaah: They are fine to clip onto, but not to install a pigtail.

BTW, I installed a pigtail and passed the pigtail connection up through the hole were the positive terminal is under the seat. There is a little square recess that the connections rest into nicely. When you want to charge, you just pop the seat and plug in.
 
pigtail

BW,

Nothing wrong with that, but the poster said he wants to install a pigtail. Have you ever tried to loosen one of those nuts under the seat? :gaah: They are fine to clip onto, but not to install a pigtail.

BTW, I installed a pigtail and passed the pigtail connection up through the hole were the positive terminal is under the seat. There is a little square recess that the connections rest into nicely. When you want to charge, you just pop the seat and plug in.

Yes, I have and you are right :gaah:You need some long skinny arms. Or some good patience, and a few Bud Lites:D I just save myself work and use the alligator clips to hook on the terminals, as they are. :f_spider:


Michael:doorag:
 
BTW does anyone know what the Spyder charging system outputs in amps.


Michael:doorag:
Output amperage is variable, depending on the state of charge of the battery and the rpm of the engine. Spyder RS magneto (generator) has a rated output of 500 watts.
 
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