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Basic Winter Question

mrfats

New member
Looks like winter has set in this year (as opposed to last year!). I've got my 2011 RTS SE5 in a heated garage on a battery tender jr. The gas has been treated with Stabil. My question is...would I be doing more harm than good to raise the garage door once a week and let the Spyder idle for 15 or 20 minutes?

Thanks for your help, John
 
That is a VERY good question! :thumbup:
I've been doing that very same process myself... I guess that the trick is to get the bike FULLY warmed up so as to evaporate any moisture that collects in the exhaust system from the heating and cooling of it... :shocked:
 
Either, ride it around for a few miles so as to get all the parts hot, and moving,
Or let it sit on the tender
With the gas tank filled to the top with some stabilizer added, Radder than run it stationary for just a few minutes every now and then.
That's how i store my two wheelers, though the winter, My Tri Glide i ride every day so none of that is necessary.
 
On the many forums, both auto & m/c, I have frequented over the past years + a lot of reading, it would seem the thing to do is:

Keep in a heated garage if you can
Change the oil & filter at the end of the riding season
Fill gas tank & put a gas stabilizer in it
Put battery on a battery tender
Then leave it alone until Spring!!
 
Looks like winter has set in this year (as opposed to last year!). I've got my 2011 RTS SE5 in a heated garage on a battery tender jr. The gas has been treated with Stabil. My question is...would I be doing more harm than good to raise the garage door once a week and let the Spyder idle for 15 or 20 minutes?

Thanks for your help, John

There are two schools of thought. If you run it to get things hot, then when it cools down it can draw moisture. By not running it and leaving it on the charger, you do not draw any moisture. Your call.:banghead:
:banghead:
 
Don't do it! If you want to run the engine, you should actually ride the motorcycle, to distribute hot oil to all the gear and clutch surfaces, as well as the cylinder walls and other engine components. The oil need to get to full operating temperature...not just the water getting to temp, and needs to stay there long enough to drive any condensed moisture out. You can't do that sitting still...the coolant will overheat before the oil reaches an adequate temperature. Best to leave well enough alone!
 
Thanks for the information. It ends up that I have been doing it right--so it looks like my 50% chance was on the money. In the "old" days, I did run my bikes about once a month that were stored in an outdoors shed. And yes, I replaced a lot of mufflers.
 
I dont have mine yet and was concerned about the same my only problem is I dont have a heated garage I have a open barn that it will be in so it will be covered but I cant do nothing about the temps. Is there anything I can do extra to help besides the standard stuff above or just deal with the cold temps?

Thanks
 
Whether the garage is heated or not is not the issue. Its the constant heating then cooling then heating again that causes condesation. In the military we would never let machines idle for too long to reduce soft sludge buildup. Soft sludge is a mixture of water and carbonized addtivites (burned stuff) in the oil that developes under relatively low tempertures and short periods of operation. It can be removed to some extent by sing oil system flushes but it is best to not even go there! When you next get on the machine ( and it has a lot of soft sludge) and really ride it and get it up to high operating temps the soft slugde bakes onto the interior surfaces of the motor and looks a lot like coal. it is very hard to remove and actually needs a tear down to get it out. The army always recommended starting a motor and as soon as the oil pressure reaches operating range take off and go. No idleing allowed! Hope this helps.
 
I dont have mine yet and was concerned about the same my only problem is I dont have a heated garage I have a open barn that it will be in so it will be covered but I cant do nothing about the temps. Is there anything I can do extra to help besides the standard stuff above or just deal with the cold temps?

Thanks

In addition to fuel stabilizer and a battery maintainer, pump up the tires to their max allowable pressure, and fill the gas tank to reduce condensation. I'd also recommend changing to a full synthetic oil, but there is little else you can do to the lubrication system to combat condensation on a dry-sump system. I do not reccomend covering the machine. It will keep dust off, but condensation will form under the cover and could damage the paint and upholstery...or encourage mold when the weather warms.
 
I do let mine warm up before riding them if they've been sitting for a few weeks. Did that New Years eve before heading out for the last ride of '12.
 
I leave mine uncovered; less chance of creepy-crawlies getting in undisturbed! :shocked: :thumbup:
A quick cleaning as the riding season emerges, and it's good to go!
 
Another thing that we in the rural areas do is plug the air inlet. I use a soft ball. I also put a reminder on my keys so I don't try to start it with the ball plugging the air intake. In the past, I have removed too many mouse nests from my air cleaners.
 
Another thing that we in the rural areas do is plug the air inlet. I use a soft ball. I also put a reminder on my keys so I don't try to start it with the ball plugging the air intake. In the past, I have removed too many mouse nests from my air cleaners.
Good idea! Don't forget to plug the muffler outlets, either. For a reminder, I tie a string tag around the throttle grip. I haven't needed to plug anything since I started using rat bait. A good barn cat works, too.
 
I thought Kev would put our spyder to "sleep". He has been riding these past few day, but the cold MO weather is not for me. So these winter tips don't help me!!! LOL!!

Hope everyone has a good winter, but not a bad winter.... (me I still do the snow dance!!)
 
Good idea! Don't forget to plug the muffler outlets, either. For a reminder, I tie a string tag around the throttle grip. I haven't needed to plug anything since I started using rat bait. A good barn cat works, too.

I agree that a good mouser would be a great deterrent to rodents. However, my youngest mouser much prefers to be inside where an attack mouse will not put his existence at risk. He is only 15 1/2 lbs and one of those 2 ounce mice could get him.

However, I do put mouse bait out and have had good luck keeping the mouse population in check.
 
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