Bajaron shock adjuster update

[ursamajor35126]

Will they only apply to the 2013-14 model years? I have a 2012 RT that could use some help.

 

[DrewNJ]

,,,

 

[Bob Denman]

176 before breakfast for me. If I put my wife's weight on here you guys won't hear from me for a while. :lecturef_smilie:

Not to worry, Stan...
Even I know, to keep some info "close to the vest"...

 

[BajaRon]

Will they only apply to the 2013-14 model years? I have a 2012 RT that could use some help.

There are pre-load adjusters on all the OEM 2008-2012 Spyder shocks so the adjusters I'm working on now will work only on the 2013/14 Spyder models. If you need more help with your 2012 RT a sway bar upgrade is the most effective first step. If that has been done the next step can include the Pitbull Shock Relocators, a heavier coil spring or to upgrade the shocks altogether. For a shock upgrade, Elka is the preferred choice.

 

[StanProff]

Another BajaRon Adjuster update! panic stop test or,, how to save a deers life!

I took advantage of the great weather here in upper East Tenn. Friday and Saturday to put some more testing miles on the Shock Adjusters. So far about 300 total miles on the Adjusters. Total mixture of roads with 75% back roads and twisties. Yesterday evening I ran out again for a late evening ride and saved a deer's life about a mile from my house :shocked:. I rounded a curve going a little to fast (after all I'm the test pilot, Right?) and got to really check out the VSS, Anti-lock brakes, and whatever else kicks in when rounding a curve too fast and having to lock it down to keep from hitting something. This thing is wicked cool when all of those safety features are working at the same time. The Deer stood there looking at me trying to figure out what the Spyder was, I was sitting there amazed at how the Spyder reacted to what had just happened. The deer then shot out of the road into the trees and I went on my way. Anyway, back to the Adjusters. I am sure, that with the preload on the springs, the Spyder did not Nose dive quite as much as it normally would during this kind of maneuver. Front end of the Spyder felt solid and predictable. I finished another 20 miles or so of back roads at a much slower pace and my heart rate was still not back to normal when I pulled back into the garage. All in all the ride was another good one and the Adjusters are doing exactly what I would want them to. By the way, I did put another turn on the adjusters for more preload during this last 100 miles. That is a total of 5 turns from the base line.
Until next time,
Stan

 

[Bob Denman]

:yikes:

I can see the advertising now...

"BajaRon: Saving lives across the Country!" :2thumbs:

 

[StanProff]

:yikes:

I can see the advertising now...

"BajaRon: Saving lives across the Country!" :2thumbs:

Hey Bob, it was really something to feel the stability control, anti lock brakes and maybe the traction control all working at the same time. There was leaves on the road from the trees and it was a left hand sharp curve so the Spyder was off camber when I had to lock it down. It seemed like things were in slow motion as I could feel the brakes and the nanny controlling as I came to a stop. It was not much more than a single lane road with a bank on one side and a good size ditch on the other with the deer in the middle. I should have known better than to go a little to fast on this road so I was lucky. If I had been on one of my two wheelers I would have went down for sure. My new rule: Ride Spyder and not two wheeler during deer season, oh, and slow down during the shock adjuster testing sessions. pps:

 

[Bob Denman]

While the insurance guy sitting here agrees with you; the Spyder enthusiast is doing this... :shocked:

 

[StanProff]

Bump

 

[StanProff]

Once we get these front adjusters ironed out I will look at the rear shock. I need to get a feel for demand as nothing is cheap these days. Sales have to reach a certain volume just to break even on the R&D (and I work for FREE!).

Right now the prototype will compress the spring 1" but that can be easily changed before production. The threads are 20 per inch. 4 turns made a noticeable difference on Stan's RT. Noticeable doesn't necessarily mean ideal. But 4 turns are only 1/5th of the total throw. We still need to do some calculations to be sure we won't get coil bind. But all of that will be pretty easy. The main thing right now is design, fit and function.

Stan is wearing them out! A PERFECT Test Pilot! He seems to be quite happy with them with the exception of a few issues that I believe we already have fixed on paper. I think we are very close and with a bit of tweaking for Phase II I'm pretty sure we will be dialed in.

These are pretty heavy duty to the point of overkill. But why not. Making them thin and cheap really won't save all that much on the price, and the grief potential long term isn't worth the savings. I want my stuff to outlast the Spyder! Can't do that for everything but these adjusters are certainly on the list. hyea:

We are still deciding on how pretty to make them. They will really stand out in this mounting location so that is also important.

I am liking the brushed Stainless steel as it goes well with the "brushed" look of the chrome on the RTS. They do look good and these suckers are heavy duty for sure.

 

[Bob Denman]

Stan is wearing them out! A PERFECT Test Pilot! He seems to be quite happy with them with the exception of a few issues that I believe we already have fixed on paper. I think we are very close and with a bit of tweaking for Phase II I'm pretty sure we will be dialed in.

These are pretty heavy duty to the point of overkill. But why not. Making them thin and cheap really won't save all that much on the price, and the grief potential long term isn't worth the savings. I want my stuff to outlast the Spyder! Can't do that for everything but these adjusters are certainly on the list. hyea:

We are still deciding on how pretty to make them. They will really stand out in this mounting location so that is also important.

No doubt; Stan IS the Man!! :yes::clap::2thumbs:
Any ideas as to pricing yet? :dontknow:

 

[StanProff]

Pictures with the BajaRon proto type phase 1 shock adjusters

Here's some pics of the adjusters. The third one is on the dragon.



BTW, the little peice of black tape on the adjuster collar is to keep track of the turns on it.:dontknow: kind of an afterthorght by BajaRon cause he knows I'd get mixed up counting the revolutions turning the collar.

 

[Bob Denman]

:shocked: Oooooohhhh..... me likey! :2thumbs:

 

[spyderyderjim]

Not only easier, but required. We've got a plan to address this aspect as most are not going to have a set laying around.

Hi Ron,
Eibach 400# springs is what comes on 2014 Spyder RT Elka front shocks, 3/8" preload on 10" long springs.
I wonder if these stronger Eibach 400# springs would work with your preload adjusters for stock 2013/2014 front shocks with less preload?
I see Stan has 5 turns preload on stock 2014 RT front springs (guess about 1" preload).
Your test shock spring adjusters look 1st quality, like all your products, thanks.
Jim

 

[Dragonrider]

There are pre-load adjusters on all the OEM 2008-2012 Spyder shocks so the adjusters I'm working on now will work only on the 2013/14 Spyder models. If you need more help with your 2012 RT a sway bar upgrade is the most effective first step. If that has been done the next step can include the Pitbull Shock Relocators, a heavier coil spring or to upgrade the shocks altogether. For a shock upgrade, Elka is the preferred choice.

Ron,

Put me on the list for a set! :thumbup:

 

[spacetiger]

Here's some pics of the adjusters. The third one is on the dragon.

View attachment 97956View attachment 97957View attachment 97958

BTW, the little peice of black tape on the adjuster collar is to keep track of the turns on it.:dontknow: kind of an afterthorght by BajaRon cause he knows I'd get mixed up counting the revolutions turning the collar.

Ron,

In looking at your 1st pic, I can see the rubber bumper pushed up quite a way. I don't think you are bottoming out, but it looks like it might be 2" up from the shock body. If you have a 2.5" working range, 2" would be 80% of your shock working range. If you are riding solo with light load, I'd guess you could bottom out.

Try pushing the rubber bumper down to the shock body, then adjust the device so you don't use but about 60% (~1.5").

Jerry

 

[StanProff]

Ron,

In looking at your 1st pic, I can see the rubber bumper pushed up quite a way. I don't think you are bottoming out, but it looks like it might be 2" up from the shock body. If you have a 2.5" working range, 2" would be 80% of your shock working range. If you are riding solo with light load, I'd guess you could bottom out.

Try pushing the rubber bumper down to the shock body, then adjust the device so you don't use but about 60% (~1.5").

Jerry

Hey Jerry, I'll slide the bumpers down before the next ride and see where they go. Paid no attention to them when we put the springs back on the shock after putting on the adjusters. I have yet to feel any bottoming of the shocks, I have put them through rough roads as well as intentional hard braking and speed bumps. We have added about 5/8 of and inch of preload to the shocks with 4 - 5 turns of the adjusters. There is about an inch of total adjustment. With the adjusters in place the bottom of the springs are very close to the stock location on the shock. The base plate where the spring sets on the shock is removed and the adjuster inner collar is machined to set in the same spot. With the springs preloaded a little it will have less tendency to bottom as it adds some stiffness to the front end.

 

[spacetiger]

Good deal Stan.

You can check the sag when you push the bumpers down, then get on the bike gently, then dismount and check how much the bumpers move. The gap should be no more than 0.5". If you could raise the wheel off the ground, you could see the total gap due to the bike and rider weight (sag), but for now you should be looking for no more than 0.5".

If you are seeing more than 0.5", you should dial in a few more turns. I used a fixed 0.75" spacer to set my sag. You have more upright shocks on your newer bike and are running 5/8" (0.625"). You might be okay, but I found 0.75 was still not sufficient to keep me from bottoming out.

keep posting and ride safe.

Jerry

 

[StanProff]

Update

Here's some pics of the adjusters. The third one is on the dragon.

View attachment 97956View attachment 97957View attachment 97958

BTW, the little peice of black tape on the adjuster collar is to keep track of the turns on it.:dontknow: kind of an afterthorght by BajaRon cause he knows I'd get mixed up counting the revolutions turning the collar.

Got a few more miles in on the pre load adjusters this past week. The weather has slowed down the field testing somewhat. I am happy with the feel of the bike at 5 turns on the adjusters. This is perfect for my riding style and weight loads on the spyder. Of course the ride feel and taughness is totally subjective for every rider and is adjustable from where I have these set. I have a couple of ideas to discuss with BajaRon when he gets back from his trip and besides that I think we are ready for the phase II proto type. This is going to be another good solid product from Ron for Spyders.
more to come,
Stan

 

[Bob Denman]

Thanks for the update... :thumbup:
What will be the primary focus of "Phase 2"?
Will it be strictly for appearance, or do you foresee any functional changes?