Baja Ron sway BAR explained

[Rednaxs60]

Another thread that relates to this one regarding BajaRon's sway bar from a few years back: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?84363-Baja-Ron-Sway-Bar-Regrets

 

[BertRemington]

Two observations:

1. Each of us has different expectations and different requirements for our suspensions. For instance, mine is comfort and stability on freeways and surface streets as a single 180lbs rider with at most 50lbs tools and materials, occasionally towing a trailer at 55mph (well maybe 65mph). For the twisties I take the Royal Enfield.

2. The extreme lay-down angle and chassis-to-wheel distance of the front shocks concerns me regarding analogies to traditional (ie, more upright) shock positioning and associated sway bar performance. There's increased stiction and shaft side-loading; increased leverage on A-arm bushings; and then the chassis-to-wheel length of the A-arms themselves.

My expectations and analysis are leading me down this path: tires (done); bushings (in hand); shocks (ordered); tighten and maybe replace handlebar-to-DPS links; laser alignment (if available locally); and maybe re-install OEM sway bar.

And I'm watching with fascination how the rest of you are achieving your expectations and requirements.

 

[Mikey]

opcorn:

 

[Jcummins]

For anyone interested..... Installed the upgraded swaybar. It accomplished exactly what Pierre said in the video. My 2020 RTL is most definitely planted better in the curves. It is worth the money, at least to me.

 

[Peteoz]

For anyone interested..... Installed the upgraded swaybar. It accomplished exactly what Pierre said in the video. My 2020 RTL is most definitely planted better in the curves. It is worth the money, at least to me.

Yep, and despite all the analysis and technical descriptions, what it is “worth” to YOU, is what really matters, Jcummins:thumbup:

Pete

 

[Lew L]

.

All the above are right on. You bet a stiffer anti-roll bar helps a lot. So does a proper wheel alignment. So does proper and equal tire pressure on GOOD tires. My 2014 RTS handles better than I do.

Lew L

 

[SNOOPY]

Wow! A lot of very knowledgeable people here!

Thank you hyea:


:roflblack:


.

 

[bikerbillone]

A most interesting thread.

 

[BajaRon]

Two observations:

1. Each of us has different expectations and different requirements for our suspensions. For instance, mine is comfort and stability on freeways and surface streets as a single 180lbs rider with at most 50lbs tools and materials, occasionally towing a trailer at 55mph (well maybe 65mph). For the twisties I take the Royal Enfield.

2. The extreme lay-down angle and chassis-to-wheel distance of the front shocks concerns me regarding analogies to traditional (ie, more upright) shock positioning and associated sway bar performance. There's increased stiction and shaft side-loading; increased leverage on A-arm bushings; and then the chassis-to-wheel length of the A-arms themselves.

My expectations and analysis are leading me down this path: tires (done); bushings (in hand); shocks (ordered); tighten and maybe replace handlebar-to-DPS links; laser alignment (if available locally); and maybe re-install OEM sway bar.

And I'm watching with fascination how the rest of you are achieving your expectations and requirements.

Curious as to which bushing you are replacing? And what are you replacing them with?

 

[BertRemington]

BR -- I intend to replace the 8 bushings at the chassis end of the A-arms with BRP 706201519, assuming I can press the old ones out. Why? It's just something I've always done to my car suspensions so when I saw the Spyder front-end my old habit kicked in. I checked to see if Energy Suspension had any pieces that would fit -- no joy -- didn't check Prothane.

One thing that's out of my experience is all my cars have been MacPherson strut front-ends. And the only experience I have with integrated coil-damper "laydown" suspension is motorcycle front-ends. So I'm kinda feeling my way here. I understand the tradeoffs the BRP engineers made. I'm just not sure how to modify them to my preferences so proceeding based on past car and motorcycle experiences. And careful reading of your, PMK, rednaxs60, et al posts.

 

[SpyderGoldwingOwner]

New 2020RT(leftover) having Spyder Pops put on BajaRon Swaybar & links this Tuesday. To me at 70+mph on a sweeper curve bike is too twitchy.

Will test out in Arkansas twistie roads this week.

Hope it helps.

 

[BajaRon]

BR -- I intend to replace the 8 bushings at the chassis end of the A-arms with BRP 706201519, assuming I can press the old ones out. Why? It's just something I've always done to my car suspensions so when I saw the Spyder front-end my old habit kicked in. I checked to see if Energy Suspension had any pieces that would fit -- no joy -- didn't check Prothane.

One thing that's out of my experience is all my cars have been MacPherson strut front-ends. And the only experience I have with integrated coil-damper "laydown" suspension is motorcycle front-ends. So I'm kinda feeling my way here. I understand the tradeoffs the BRP engineers made. I'm just not sure how to modify them to my preferences so proceeding based on past car and motorcycle experiences. And careful reading of your, PMK, rednaxs60, et al posts.

So, you are trading out stock for stock? Sorry, just trying to follow the logic. I thought you might have sourced a polyethylene part. I am assuming that BRP is still using a silicone rubber bushing. Getting the old ones out shouldn't be too difficult.

 

[BajaRon]

BR -- I intend to replace the 8 bushings at the chassis end of the A-arms with BRP 706201519, assuming I can press the old ones out. Why? It's just something I've always done to my car suspensions so when I saw the Spyder front-end my old habit kicked in. I checked to see if Energy Suspension had any pieces that would fit -- no joy -- didn't check Prothane.

One thing that's out of my experience is all my cars have been MacPherson strut front-ends. And the only experience I have with integrated coil-damper "laydown" suspension is motorcycle front-ends. So I'm kinda feeling my way here. I understand the tradeoffs the BRP engineers made. I'm just not sure how to modify them to my preferences so proceeding based on past car and motorcycle experiences. And careful reading of your, PMK, rednaxs60, et al posts.

So, you are trading out stock for stock? Sorry, just trying to follow the logic. I thought you might have sourced a polyethylene part. I am assuming that BRP is still using a silicone rubber bushing.

New 2020RT(leftover) having Spyder Pops put on BajaRon Swaybar & links this Tuesday. To me at 70+mph on a sweeper curve bike is too twitchy.

Will test out in Arkansas twistie roads this week.

Hope it helps.

If the bar doesn't get it all out. Try a laser alignment (if you've not already done one) and run 18-19 lbs in your front tires. And there is always the 'Relax, Relax, Relax' advise.

 

[Big F]

Just an FYI.
we had our annual Spyderfever rally over the past weekend. (and another great turnout of Spyder owners from the upper Midwest I might add) During one of the rides we encountered VERY strong side wind gusts and those Spyders with the Baja Ron sway bars were able to cope with the issues much better than those that did not have the sway bar upgrade..
BIG F

 

[BigLenny]

The only thing I can add to this thread is:
Two weeks ago, I made my way to SpyderPops, and had him and his team do a laser alignment, and install the BajaRon sway bar to our 2020 RTL. Currently my wife and I are vacationing in Smoky Mountains National Park. Yesterday day was our first full day of riding these incredible mountain roads, and all I can say is WOW!
We rode several incredible roads, including 100 miles of the Blue Ridge Parkway. This dang thing is so much more planted, stable, and true in the turns than it ever was before. It made the ride in the twisties an absolute blast!
Bravo BajaRon! And Bravo SpyderPops and his team for hooking me up!
Now, today is The Tail of the Dragon, The Cherohala Skyway, and Moonshiner 28. That should be a blast too.
Big Lenny

 

[PMK]

BR -- I intend to replace the 8 bushings at the chassis end of the A-arms with BRP 706201519, assuming I can press the old ones out. Why? It's just something I've always done to my car suspensions so when I saw the Spyder front-end my old habit kicked in. I checked to see if Energy Suspension had any pieces that would fit -- no joy -- didn't check Prothane.

One thing that's out of my experience is all my cars have been MacPherson strut front-ends. And the only experience I have with integrated coil-damper "laydown" suspension is motorcycle front-ends. So I'm kinda feeling my way here. I understand the tradeoffs the BRP engineers made. I'm just not sure how to modify them to my preferences so proceeding based on past car and motorcycle experiences. And careful reading of your, PMK, rednaxs60, et al posts.

While the benefits of converting from Nitrile bonded pivot bushings to floating Polyurethane can have benefits in many applications, a Spyder may be one of seeing the least improvement or gains. The reason is the wheel travel and angular travel of the suspension arms is not much. Granted, under braking, you can watch a lot of movement front to rear in the upper arms. Just not sure how much is bushing distortion.

If you have an oem bushing in hand, using the dimensions of the shell ID and sleeve OD, you might find industrial Polyurethane die springs capable of accomplishing the task.

Ideally, the pivot axis is aligned and you could install the metalic bushings, along with grease fittings from previous year Spyders. Do so there would be no flex and done right minimal maintenance via the grease zerks.