back in the shop again

[Tx web rider]

2009 rs se5 24k miles
well i posted a couple weeks ago about my spyder going to limp mode with vss failure and dps failure after aprox 20 miles continuous riding with out a major interruption (ie stop major slow down )
the dealer checked the codes first showed some 12 times this happened over the last couple months they figured it was the dps it was changed and sent me on my way home
rode 150 miles home no issues with the bike was very happy so i parked in the garage and 2 days later i took off to go ride to a funeral with the patriot guard and bam 20 miles away here we go again with the exact same problem

i returned it to the dealer today for an extended stay away (already having spyder withdraws) they have no idea what to do need to hook up buds again and send data to BRP i hope they figure this out soon i really want to ride my spyder to spyderfest


looked into a new unit but i have only had this one since June and going to take it in the shorts doing so and the rss is not an option with out the mods i have and the RT is high dollar for a unemployable vet on limited budget
i love my bike i just want to ride

to bad there is not a production unit that is between the RS and the RT something with the body of the Rs and the RT powered windscreen, handlebars, electronic cruise and better seat that would be a nice intermediate bike

 

[arntufun]

limp mode with DPS and VSS codes at the same time could be caused by a disconnected or a faulty wheel sensor. Been there, done that. :thumbup:

 

[NancysToy]

Check your battery and connections, as well as the integrity of your frame grounds. Battery testing should include a load test. The DPS is the largest single electrical draw on the Spyder, outside the starter. A weak battery or bad connection can cause the DPS to fail to operate properly. If the DPS fails, it will also trigger a VSS fault, so you get two for the price of one.

 

[sabunim5]

Before that many miles my PE needed more foam in the lid of the forward fuse box. The original foam was too compressed and was no longer keeping the relays tight. This generated the conditions you described. Another thin layer of foam in the lid and I have been trouble free since, with about 28k miles on the odo. Good luck with finding a solution. :thumbup:

 

[Tx web rider]

news on my spyder

got a call Friday from the shop

they say they have located my problem with the bike
they claim the LED lights i put in the sockets for the tail/brake lights was the cause of all my problems giving a low voltage usage to the computer
but if this is the case why is it causing the DPS/VSS failures

the lights i put in were the over the counter replacement bulbs from the auto parts store that plug in instead of the normal tail light

i will be catching a ride to the dealer tomorrow to pick it up i really hope this is the only problem not just one of them

 

[NancysToy]

got a call Friday from the shop

they say they have located my problem with the bike
they claim the LED lights i put in the sockets for the tail/brake lights was the cause of all my problems giving a low voltage usage to the computer
but if this is the case why is it causing the DPS/VSS failures

the lights i put in were the over the counter replacement bulbs from the auto parts store that plug in instead of the normal tail light

i will be catching a ride to the dealer tomorrow to pick it up i really hope this is the only problem not just one of them

The VSS reads the current to the brakelight bulbs. When the current is low, it assumes the brakelights are burned out, and that triggers limp mode. Overkill...maybe, but that's how they do it. The brakes are part of the Vehicle Stability System, so it triggers that fault. The VSS fault triggers the DPS warning, in turn, because it is a related system. You can't change rear bulbs on a Spyder without replacing them with LEDS that have a load compensator. Lesson learned.

When you have a failure right after you have performed some maintenance or made some mods, you have to go back to the last thing you have done, and reverse it to see if the fault clears...Mechanics 101. Only you know the entire story in that instance, so you are in the best position to correct your mistake.

 

[Tx web rider]

lessons learned

normally i would have followed that but i had the bike act up prior to the light or it happened all at one time the dealer thought i had a faulty dps and never looked at the lights

now to figure out what is gone wrong with my mc cruise sigh it stoped working same day all the rest the issues happened wonder if the low voltage is its issue also?

 

[NancysToy]

normally i would have followed that but i had the bike act up prior to the light or it happened all at one time the dealer thought i had a faulty dps and never looked at the lights

now to figure out what is gone wrong with my mc cruise sigh it stoped working same day all the rest the issues happened wonder if the low voltage is its issue also?

What you experienced was not actually low voltage, but just low current to the brakelights. Not sure if that would affect the McCruise, but it should have been cured when you put in the correct bulbs, if it was related.

 

[Tx web rider]

picked up yesterday

picked up my spyder yesterday and with the correct light bulbs in it i did the 150 mile return trip home with no problems and my cruise is working the low current as i was corrected was the issue
the mc cruise system thought the brake sensor was faulty and wouldn't engage

now its back home washed up and ready to put miles on it :yes::yes::2thumbs:

see you all in cuba next month thanks for the help